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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > How many hours labor would it take to put on new rotors, pads & sensors?



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      06-19-2013, 12:27 PM   #1
Lotus99
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How many hours labor would it take to put on new rotors, pads & sensors?

For a 335? Shop quoted me 1.5 hours per axle, so 3 total, which seems a bit high?
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      06-19-2013, 12:47 PM   #2
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Took me 2.5hrs in my garage, never having done BMW brakes before. I did pads, rotors, and sensors.
1.5ea is probably about right for a shop to charge. Whatever their book tells them!
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      06-19-2013, 12:47 PM   #3
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Thanks. It's an indy mechanic though, so I'd have expected better...
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      06-19-2013, 11:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus99 View Post
Thanks. It's an indy mechanic though, so I'd have expected better...
Good luck with this.

If at all possible, this is a very doable DIY. You'll need simple hand tools and a jack/stands but its definitely possible if you are willing.

Good luck either way.
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      06-20-2013, 02:10 AM   #5
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sounds about right for a shop
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      06-20-2013, 02:32 AM   #6
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Should be around 2 hours or less if its a BMW tech, since its like cake for them~
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      06-20-2013, 08:52 AM   #7
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Not difficult but it takes a bit of time. If your rotors are stuck the tech may have a hard time and that will increase the average time for everybody else. It is not completely out of line, even if a bit high.
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      06-20-2013, 12:09 PM   #8
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That is about right. When I had my place, the older the car was, the more time I added to the labor to deal with old rusty parts.
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      06-20-2013, 08:21 PM   #9
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Thanks everyone for the feedback. The car's an 2008, with just over 30,000 miles on it. I had dropped off the car there already in the morning, so couldn't DIY. If they overcharged me like half an hour, I'm ok with it. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't like a 1.5 hour job, since I thought it was just a matter of bolting on new rotors.

Also, I was a bit chicken to attempt it, for fear of mucking something up, or skipping a step, and creating squeels (I'd read you should apply anti squeel stuff before putting pad on, and a few other tricks to watch out for). All is good so far with their install (I got Stoptech slotted rotors and Street Perf pads) and I've had no squeels, which I heard you can get with those pads? I've yet to bed them in though.

I've done my spark plugs. I'm sure if I watch someone do it, I'd become comfortable.
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      06-20-2013, 10:56 PM   #10
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At three hours he should have done a brake flush also.
I'm able to swap pads and rotors on just about any car at 45 minutes per axle with a floor jack. Takes longer to get the car in the air and pull the wheel than get the rots and pads on.
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      06-20-2013, 11:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techwhiz View Post
At three hours he should have done a brake flush also.
I'm able to swap pads and rotors on just about any car at 45 minutes per axle with a floor jack. Takes longer to get the car in the air and pull the wheel than get the rots and pads on.
When people quote how much it takes to do a job on their car, I always try to find their location. The reason is, having nut and bolts that are rusted and corroded, vs not makes a big difference. You are from California, the OP is from Canada, road salt corrodes.
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      06-21-2013, 12:56 AM   #12
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My Indy shop quoted me 1 hour for the fronts, and this is in canada with our salty roads.
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      06-21-2013, 02:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhaseP View Post
When people quote how much it takes to do a job on their car, I always try to find their location. The reason is, having nut and bolts that are rusted and corroded, vs not makes a big difference. You are from California, the OP is from Canada, road salt corrodes.
I'm on the west coast, so almost no salt. Next time, I'll go in informed, and push back on an estimate if needed.
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      06-21-2013, 05:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhaseP View Post
When people quote how much it takes to do a job on their car, I always try to find their location. The reason is, having nut and bolts that are rusted and corroded, vs not makes a big difference. You are from California, the OP is from Canada, road salt corrodes.
The retaining screw either comes out or you hit it with a torch and PB Blaster.
If the rotor is stuck you hit it with a dead hammer.
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      06-21-2013, 05:27 PM   #15
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I got charged 100 bucks for the front brakes/rotors/sensor. It would be 200 both axles.
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      06-21-2013, 08:21 PM   #16
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some of you do realize that most mechanics (and all dealerships) charge an hourly rate times the labor hours THAT IS "STANDARD" IN A WORK BOOK. just cuz a skilled mechanic can knock out a certain job in less time than the standard time doesn't mean he/she has to only charge the actual time spent.

if you finished something early at your company and they said "ok you did it in half the time, so we'll just pay you half the paycheck." would you accept that? exactly.
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      06-22-2013, 11:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edirtaynine View Post
some of you do realize that most mechanics (and all dealerships) charge an hourly rate times the labor hours THAT IS "STANDARD" IN A WORK BOOK. just cuz a skilled mechanic can knock out a certain job in less time than the standard time doesn't mean he/she has to only charge the actual time spent.

if you finished something early at your company and they said "ok you did it in half the time, so we'll just pay you half the paycheck." would you accept that? exactly.
No, because I don't work by the hour.......
I know they quote book because some jobs are more difficult, but why shouod everyone pay for the difficult job?

I knew a factory mechanic at a dealership that would routinely book 12-16 hours a day, everyday based on book time.

So I would say that book is there to pad the dealerships coffers.
I went to an independent with my other cars because he only charged time+materials. I paid the time it took, not what the book said.
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