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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Better transmission mounts for 1/4 mile? Long read



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      08-17-2007, 11:35 PM   #23
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jon,

Since yall sell the mounts... and arent sure if they would work. Would you be willing to sell a set for someone to test/return without a restocking fee if they dont work?

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      08-17-2007, 11:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon@themshop View Post
Have you seen the stock transmission mounts? They look like an hour glass and aren't very stiff.

The Rogue Engineering Transmission mounts are of a cylindrical shape with are higher durometer rating rubber so it is stiffer than factory. You don't want to put solid transmission mounts.
I haven't seen the stock ones, but its good that they still used rubber. I have used urethane on other vehicles with pretty good results, but not sure if they are available for the BMW. I have used solid transmission mounts, never again on a vehicle that I drive on the street.
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      08-17-2007, 11:36 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by 533ogetnom View Post
looks fun, how WOULD you get a torque wrench up there, the only one i have is 4 feet long, ive never been able to find a small one

looks like
Thats a long torque wrench but doesn't require a lot of ft.lbs. If you have to go by feel but it doesn't have to be tight.

I'll send you any torque specs tomorrow just in case.
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      08-17-2007, 11:38 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catm3 View Post
I haven't seen the stock ones, but its good that they still used rubber. I have used urethane on other vehicles with pretty good results, but not sure if they are available for the BMW. I have used solid transmission mounts, never again on a vehicle that I drive on the street.
The stock transmission mount might look like the one to the right. The one on the left is from a very old BMW.
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      08-17-2007, 11:42 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon@themshop View Post
Thats a long torque wrench but doesn't require a lot of ft.lbs. If you have to go by feel but it doesn't have to be tight.

I'll send you any torque specs tomorrow just in case.
i would be VERY concerned about over torquing them, i always seem to do that, i have no feel for that sort of thing :/
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      08-17-2007, 11:43 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by catm3 View Post
I haven't seen the stock ones, but its good that they still used rubber. I have used urethane on other vehicles with pretty good results, but not sure if they are available for the BMW. I have used solid transmission mounts, never again on a vehicle that I drive on the street.
that bad?
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      08-17-2007, 11:51 PM   #29
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1clean, you said you had seen some, are they that hour glass shape? what makes you think they are stiffer than previous 3s
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      08-18-2007, 09:18 AM   #30
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I believe they are the hour glass shape. Most of the newer bmw's i've seen in the air have those type of mounts now.

If you get under the car and take a look and feel them they feel pretty stiff. Stiff enough I might think they are polyurethane but I doubt it.

Do you just have a shorter shift knob (the top part with the numbers) or did you replace the whole shifter lever (ie- short shifter kit)?
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      08-19-2007, 12:14 PM   #31
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I seem to always miss 2nd when driving hard. Lately, I have been pulling off the entire damn knob. Really pisses me off, I spent the $100 to get the short one and then I ended up tearing it off the leather.
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      08-19-2007, 12:18 PM   #32
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I seem to always miss 2nd when driving hard. Lately, I have been pulling off the entire damn knob. Really pisses me off, I spent the $100 to get the short one and then I ended up tearing it off the leather.
Yeah I have the same issue... 2nd misses a lot!
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      08-19-2007, 12:40 PM   #33
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I seem to always miss 2nd when driving hard. Lately, I have been pulling off the entire damn knob. Really pisses me off, I spent the $100 to get the short one and then I ended up tearing it off the leather.
i think thats more of an issue with the synchros, by "miss" you mean you let the clutch out before its in gear or you dont get it engaged right away right?



and jon, do u know for sure if the rogue engineering mounts are compatible with the 335? did they have 335 specific instructions? dont care about the 40 bucks as much as bothering to crawl under the car taking bolts off and finding out i cant change them
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      08-19-2007, 01:50 PM   #34
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i think thats more of an issue with the synchros, by "miss" you mean you let the clutch out before its in gear or you dont get it engaged right away right?
I have been driving manuals since I was 15, but in no way am I stating that I am some sort of professional. But I just cannot get second into gear. Clutch pushed all the way in shifting fast the entire knob will come loose, clutch still pushed in. I am just guessing its user error, but would like to know what is going wrong.
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      08-19-2007, 02:42 PM   #35
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I have been driving manuals since I was 15, but in no way am I stating that I am some sort of professional. But I just cannot get second into gear. Clutch pushed all the way in shifting fast the entire knob will come loose, clutch still pushed in. I am just guessing its user error, but would like to know what is going wrong.
no its not user error, but its not the same thing im describing, thats due to the synchros they put into the 335 for the 1->2nd shift

ill make this as short as possible, your tranny has 2 sets of gears for each gear, one is connected to parts connect to the clutch and engine, the other is connected to the gear linkage and the driveshaft (the pairing could be backwards but its not important)


when you shift from 1st the the two are spinning at the same rate (in respect to the teeth not revolutions) but when you go to put it in second gear the part the gear that is attatched to the engine (but not directly because the clutch is in) has to slow down a considerable amount in order for the two gear rings teeth to line up at the same speed


what forces that part of the gearbox to slow down are the synchros, the synchros for 1st->2nd are not beefy enough to force the gearbox to slow down sooner than your trying to push it in gear, the result is you waiting for that part of the gearbox to slow down when pulling on the shifter

there is nothing besides shifting at a lower rpm that will fix this (or new synchros but thats not going to happen)



i hope that was understandable im really shitty at explaining things
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      08-19-2007, 05:21 PM   #36
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Makes sense to me... thanks.

Just to go along with the thread, I ran a 14.4 with my PROcede and a friend with a stock auto ran 13.9. I have a lot of work to do, get my launch and shift times faster. Temps were around 85 and 4500 ft altitude. I have 19s with 265s and he is on stock sport runflats.
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