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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > No power when keyfob is in!



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      10-11-2016, 01:02 PM   #1
Meanshyguy
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No power when keyfob is in!

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This is what's going on, when I start the car and insert the keyfob, everything's normal until I get to my destination and turn off the engine, then all the power goes out and the keyfob gets stuck in that slot. To get power back on I have to remove the actual key from the keyfob, open the trunk and move around the battery wires, power is back on and everything's normal. Any idea what's going on?
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      10-12-2016, 12:39 PM   #2
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i had this happen to me this morning again, this time the keyfob wasnt inserted, seems to happen when i shut off the car with the door closed. Am I the only one that ever had this problem on here?
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      10-12-2016, 02:59 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meanshyguy View Post
move around the battery wires, power is back on and everything's normal.
It sounds like you already did a good job diagnosing the problem.

If moving the battery wires restores power, then something is amiss at the trunk. When was the battery replaced last, and was the IBS wire also replaced?
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      10-12-2016, 03:38 PM   #4
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Battery is a couple of years old, no that wire wasnt replaced, I didn't know you had to but I will regardless.
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      10-12-2016, 04:05 PM   #5
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I think there was a recall on those battery cables. Prolly get it done for free at a dealer
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      10-12-2016, 10:56 PM   #6
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I had this issue a couple of times. This happened about once a month and wiggling the battery cable would make it start. Got the recall for the cable done. They replaced the cable at the fusebox end I believe. It hasn't done it since the recall was performed. But it has only been a month since the recall was done. You might want to check if the recall has been done on your car.
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      10-12-2016, 11:05 PM   #7
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I will check into that for sure, hopefully they won't mind it's not a BMW battery and I've gone elsewhere for service.
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      10-13-2016, 01:27 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meanshyguy View Post
I will check into that for sure, hopefully they won't mind it's not a BMW battery and I've gone elsewhere for service.
Even if its not BMW battery if your car has active recall they will change the part. As I said, its not the cable near the battery that the recall addresses. So, it might or might not solve the issue, but definitely get it taken care of.
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      10-20-2016, 05:08 PM   #9
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Ok so I gave e BMW the vin number and they said the only recall on my car is for the airbag, anyone has a pic of that wire by the fusebox or can tell me exactly which one it is so I can try and mess with it myself?

Update: I found some info and will print out the bulletin they sent out back in 2011 about the failure and take it to them and hopefully get my cable and fuse box replaced.

Last edited by Meanshyguy; 10-20-2016 at 10:46 PM.
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      10-21-2016, 02:41 PM   #10
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I got a reply via e-mail and said that the recalls are specific to a vehicles vin # and that my vehicle does not show a recall for this, isn't that some bullshit?
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      10-21-2016, 04:34 PM   #11
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I got a reply via e-mail and said that the recalls are specific to a vehicles vin # and that my vehicle does not show a recall for this, isn't that some bullshit?
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      10-21-2016, 09:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meanshyguy
I got a reply via e-mail and said that the recalls are specific to a vehicles vin # and that my vehicle does not show a recall for this, isn't that some bullshit?
Yah the recalls are vin specific. Your car may not be in the recall range. Mine was and got it done. Doesn't hurt to drop the glovebox and check the cable. I believe the affected cable is behind the glovebox.
I believe there are tests in INPA that can check the battery. New batteries can be defective too. So, I say test the battery.
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      10-22-2016, 02:02 PM   #13
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I had the same issue with power cut. Power returns when you wiggle the red cable behind the passengers glovebox.
There is no recall in UK. I know some owners got BMW goodwill contribution if they have full BMW service history. The recall is replacement of the fuse junction box and the battery cable from the boot.There repair is labour intensive and cost about eyewatering 1200.

However I had a cheaper repair done about 10 months ago an no issues.
The engineer removed the fuse box from car and made the red cable connection more secure.
The repair cost was a tenth of BMW price.
I know many other people had the repair done by the same person and well pleased.
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      10-23-2016, 09:01 AM   #14
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I had a similar encounter with my 335d. My vin didn't fall within the recall for the cable replacement.

So I bought the cable it's about two feet long (and not too pricey), and I did the "recall" by myself.

Involves cutting a part of your original battery cable that goes into the glovebox fuse box and crimping on the new wire.

I thought changing out the fuse box was a bit excessive so I didn't. If I start getting problems again I'll replace the fuse box too..
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      10-23-2016, 09:03 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sayek
I had the same issue with power cut. Power returns when you wiggle the red cable behind the passengers glovebox.
There is no recall in UK. I know some owners got BMW goodwill contribution if they have full BMW service history. The recall is replacement of the fuse junction box and the battery cable from the boot.There repair is labour intensive and cost about eyewatering 1200.

However I had a cheaper repair done about 10 months ago an no issues.
The engineer removed the fuse box from car and made the red cable connection more secure.
The repair cost was a tenth of BMW price.
I know many other people had the repair done by the same person and well pleased.
Sayek, I was able to do this by myself in less than an hour.... I really don't think it's labour intensive at all...1200 seems outrageous
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      10-23-2016, 10:06 AM   #16
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BMW recall was to replace the complete wire from the battery to the fuse box under the dash.
The labour cost was to remove all the bits from the fusebox to the battery in the boot
and also replace the fusebox. I believe even the seats need to be removed to pass the new cable through.

I have seen the other available repair job that involves cutting 2ft of the battery and attach a new cable with a better connector.
But you can appreciate BMW recall wont do job that involves cut and join the battery cable. They obviously want big and change everything.
I do agree replacing the fusebox is overkill unless its actually faulty.

The repair on my car did not even cut the wire. The guy just modified the connector to make it more secure. Minimal part used and work well.
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      10-24-2016, 09:27 PM   #17
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I will try and modify the connection first, seems like the easiest thing to start with!
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      11-02-2016, 01:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meanshyguy View Post
I will try and modify the connection first, seems like the easiest thing to start with!
Meanshyguy were you able to modify you connection? I am in the same situation right now and would like some advise please.

Thanks
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      11-07-2016, 01:12 AM   #19
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No sir, actually what I did is I removed the battery and got it tested at autozone and fully charged, also, I made sure all the cables ,connections were tight and fully locked. The battery tie down was lose and out of place so I put it where it goes and secured the battery, I think what made the biggest difference is getting the battery fully charged, problem solved, I drive the car more often now and don't let it sit too long, I have 4 vehicles.
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      11-07-2016, 03:13 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meanshyguy View Post
No sir, actually what I did is I removed the battery and got it tested at autozone and fully charged, also, I made sure all the cables ,connections were tight and fully locked. The battery tie down was lose and out of place so I put it where it goes and secured the battery, I think what made the biggest difference is getting the battery fully charged, problem solved, I drive the car more often now and don't let it sit too long, I have 4 vehicles.
Ok good to know. I had to remove the clip connecting the positive to my fuse box and soldered it direct. Working great so far and more secure.
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