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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY M3/OEM Upper & Lower Control Arms



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robc1976's Avatar DIY M3/OEM Upper & Lower Control Arms
robc1976
01-06-2013
Note: Not responsible for any damage to you or your car, this worked on my car so will work on yours.

***This tutorial assumes you know how to get your car secured on jack stands, if in doubt do Click here to read the entire tutorial
  #22  
By robc1976 on 04-11-2013, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdawg4l View Post
I wish you told me that 2 weeks ago. :-)
that sucks man!
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  #23  
By StealYourFace on 06-28-2013, 09:03 PM
The oem are simply trw's... When I got mine 3 years ago from Tischer they had (and still do lol) both the ///M and TRW logos. 60,000 miles later, they are cooked and ready for replacement thanks to the shit roads in Buffalo.
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  #24  
By fl0wmastr on 06-30-2013, 02:55 PM
Thanks for the DIY!
where did you buy the TRW M3 Upper Control / Thrust Arm ? Price?
Can you get away with just doing the Upper Control arm & not the lower control arm ?
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  #25  
By 4doorbmwpower on 08-08-2013, 05:46 AM
thanks for letting me know you had this, i will be doing this part for myself most likely, now how about bushings and all the other parts of an M3 refresh kit? maybe coilovers... same degree of simplicity????
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  #26  
By robc1976 on 08-08-2013, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4doorbmwpower View Post
thanks for letting me know you had this, i will be doing this part for myself most likely, now how about bushings and all the other parts of an M3 refresh kit? maybe coilovers... same degree of simplicity????
I would do everything in this order

Coil-overs
M3 control arms
M3 E93 front sway bar (thicker)
Rear adjustable toe arms

These all done at same time:

LSD
Powerflex full subframe bushings
DEFIV lockdown kit (if you have the power to warrant it)
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  #27  
By doogee on 08-08-2013, 10:13 PM
You might want to look into why you have way more camber on the FL.
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  #28  
By robc1976 on 08-08-2013, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doogee View Post
You might want to look into why you have way more camber on the FL.
I had him change it the next day.
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  #29  
By mlifxs on 08-10-2013, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fl0wmastr View Post
Thanks for the DIY!
where did you buy the TRW M3 Upper Control / Thrust Arm ? Price?
Can you get away with just doing the Upper Control arm & not the lower control arm ?
I bought mine from fcpeuro.com but I think you can shop them and might see better prices. Try oembimmerparts.com , ecstuning.com, rmeuropean.com, turnermotorsports.com. There are probably others.

I think it's possible to do only one set at a time. I started with the wishbones (lower control arms) because I already had Meyle HD tension struts. A couple thousand miles later, I decided to go ahead and replace the Meyle tension struts as well since I liked the M3 feel.

Only concern I would have with regard to only one set: would having stronger bushings on one set shift more force on the other set and cause them to wear faster? I have no experience to suggest this but wondered about it.
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  #30  
By alexb on 08-12-2013, 08:37 PM
Can I ask a really stupid question...? Is this sort of mod for RWD cars only? Or can I do this to my XI? 2006 330xi. Thanks in advance.
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  #31  
By mckacdc on 09-28-2013, 12:41 PM
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I just got this done last Friday. Had it aligned right after. was good at first. then slowly throughout the week it started pulling to the right.
I went yesterday and checked everything just to make sure nothing was lose. everything was fine. no movement anywhere other than the steering turning. also, looked like the inside of my front passenger tire was showing wear already. went and had the alignment check and it was slightly off, but they fixed it.
Still pulled to the right. Went this morning and had the front tires cross rotated. STILL pulls to the right...

What should I do next? I dont want this other tire to start wearing on the inside also.


FYI got it aligned at NTB.
front left front right
-1.1 camber -1.1
7.4 caster 7.0
.15 toe .16
25.5 SAI 14.0
24.4 IA 12.9

rear left rear right
-1.4 camber -1.6
.13 toe .09


Anything look off?

thanks in advance!
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  #32  
By robc1976 on 09-28-2013, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mckacdc View Post
I just got this done last Friday. Had it aligned right after. was good at first. then slowly throughout the week it started pulling to the right.
I went yesterday and checked everything just to make sure nothing was lose. everything was fine. no movement anywhere other than the steering turning. also, looked like the inside of my front passenger tire was showing wear already. went and had the alignment check and it was slightly off, but they fixed it.
Still pulled to the right. Went this morning and had the front tires cross rotated. STILL pulls to the right...

What should I do next? I dont want this other tire to start wearing on the inside also.


FYI got it aligned at NTB.
front left front right
-1.1 camber -1.1
7.4 caster 7.0
.15 toe .16
25.5 SAI 14.0
24.4 IA 12.9

rear left rear right
-1.4 camber -1.6
.13 toe .09


Anything look off?

thanks in advance!
total toe should be .18 which = .9 each tire. Try to get same in back. Also with M3 arms remove nipple out of tophat do you can max out camber.
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  #33  
By mckacdc on 09-28-2013, 02:59 PM
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ok, i think i found what you are talking about. i went out and looked and it looks like one side is taken out and the other isnt??
pass. side


driver side


that wouldnt make any since though if one side is removed and the other isnt because they have the exact same camber. am i wrong? would that mess with the alignment??

anyways, i tried searching, but how does one remove those anyway??
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  #34  
By robc1976 on 09-28-2013, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mckacdc View Post
ok, i think i found what you are talking about. i went out and looked and it looks like one side is taken out and the other isnt??
pass. side


driver side


that wouldnt make any since though if one side is removed and the other isnt because they have the exact same camber. am i wrong? would that mess with the alignment??

anyways, i tried searching, but how does one remove those anyway??
you can tell they are in the same spot, just take a vice grip and turn it to remove. They do have a Allen head but that usually doesn't work lol! After that just Jack up car so wheel is off the ground....loosen the (3) 13MM bolts abs push shock assembly in until it stops....tighten one of the top hat bolts to hold in place and then tighten other nuts to 26 ft lbs. 1 minute procedure. Do this to both sides of course.
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  #35  
By robc1976 on 09-28-2013, 04:58 PM
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To make it easier remove one nut complete so you can see it is pushed in all the way (you will see a small channel the bolts slide in.
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  #36  
By froop on 10-03-2013, 03:26 AM
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Hey Rob, thanks for the DIY!

Can I ask if you just reused all of the mounting bolts? ECS sells a front control arm kit with new bolts and nuts etc but I'm wondering if it's necessary to buy new ones.
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  #37  
By robc1976 on 10-03-2013, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by froop View Post
Hey Rob, thanks for the DIY!

Can I ask if you just reused all of the mounting bolts? ECS sells a front control arm kit with new bolts and nuts etc but I'm wondering if it's necessary to buy new ones.
Highly suggest it!
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  #38  
By maupineda on 10-28-2013, 09:31 PM
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thanks to robc1976. I just installed mine but they are quite challenging, Particularly the wishbone, what a bitch, it is as if the M3 subframe is different as the arms just dont go in, I had to bend the frame ends and file it down, glad it is aluminum or it would have taken forever, even so it took me 7 hours to complete the job although I changed the tie rods as well.
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  #39  
By robc1976 on 10-28-2013, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maupineda View Post
thanks to robc1976. I just installed mine but they are quite challenging, Particularly the wishbone, what a bitch, it is as if the M3 subframe is different as the arms just dont go in, I had to bend the frame ends and file it down, glad it is aluminum or it would have taken forever, even so it took me 7 hours to complete the job although I changed the tie rods as well.
someone over tighten them....this causes a bit impression and caused burrs. All you need to do is file and use anti-seize and it will slide in. I highly suggest not bending the frame like that...could cause vibration if arm does not dub in correctly.
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  #40  
By maupineda on 10-28-2013, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
someone over tighten them....this causes a bit impression and caused burrs. All you need to do is file and use anti-seize and it will slide in. I highly suggest not bending the frame like that...could cause vibration if arm does not dub in correctly.
Totally agree, the only problem is that there was no way to get them in, while tighten them i did it very slowly making sure all mating surface sat. or maybe I was just not doing it the right way. I applied lube, use my rubber mallet and nothing, I had to file to eliminate all burs but still had open the ends. I jsut went to a quick drive and the response of the steering is completely improved, much more eager to steering wheel inputs. I think I did a good job by aligning the car to a point that is drive-able and tomorrow morning to the shop! Thanks Rob!
Last edited by maupineda; 10-28-2013 at 10:49 PM.
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  #41  
By NSFW 335i on 10-30-2013, 05:50 PM
Are those custom alignment specs, 335i specs or m3 specs?
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  #42  
By mrgreenwood on 11-08-2013, 09:23 AM
How do you torque the arms at the ball joint?
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  #43  
By chris98m3 on 11-09-2013, 11:28 PM
I just installed my control arms without lifting the hub to tighten the bolts. Now its all out of wack what bolts should I tighten
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