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      01-04-2013, 12:43 AM   #1
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Need Help! Downpipe-midpipe studs broke; misfires; hiccups/stutting...Suggestions?

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      01-04-2013, 12:50 AM   #2
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It probably just needs new plugs/coils. Most misfires are due to this. If it's persistent cylinder 5 I'd replace all the plugs first (likely can get this done as part of your 30k service), if you keep getting a cylinder 5 misfire, get the code stored and then de-mod it and take it in and let them replace the coil.

On the other hand, the coils are only 40 bucks.
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      01-05-2013, 02:22 PM   #3
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I did the same thing to my down pipes. Realized those studs are welded to the down pipes and can't be removed. Landed up cutting them flush and drilling them out. Put in some nice ss bolts with anti seize.
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      01-05-2013, 03:07 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfrazie1
I did the same thing to my down pipes. Realized those studs are welded to the down pipes and can't be removed. Landed up cutting them flush and drilling them out. Put in some nice ss bolts with anti seize.
This. For misfires, start with a fresh set of plugs. If your still getting misfires swap coils to see if the misfire follows the coil and replace as necessary.
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      01-05-2013, 03:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l3n1356 View Post
While removing the stock exhaust one stud/bolt on each of the pipes broke
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Originally Posted by kfrazie1 View Post
I did the same thing to my down pipes. Realized those studs are welded to the down pipes and can't be removed. Landed up cutting them flush and drilling them out. Put in some nice ss bolts with anti seize.


how did you guys manage to break those bolts? or they broke by themselves when taking the nuts out?

op: i would look into buying used stock dp or take advantage and buy aftermarket dp

good luck
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      01-08-2013, 12:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DallasBoosted
It probably just needs new plugs/coils. Most misfires are due to this. If it's persistent cylinder 5 I'd replace all the plugs first (likely can get this done as part of your 30k service), if you keep getting a cylinder 5 misfire, get the code stored and then de-mod it and take it in and let them replace the coil.

On the other hand, the coils are only 40 bucks.
Thanks for the advice. I plan on getting all spark plugs replaced and what not, I have no clue how the previous owner drove the car. Compared to my previous 335xi, my car now runs like shit. Ill probably get a walnut blast as well.


But... What is every ones thought about leaving the dp bolts unfixed before my 30k service? I currently have no tools or lift currently.
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      01-08-2013, 12:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swoosh69
Quote:
Originally Posted by l3n1356 View Post
While removing the stock exhaust one stud/bolt on each of the pipes broke
Quote:
Originally Posted by kfrazie1 View Post
I did the same thing to my down pipes. Realized those studs are welded to the down pipes and can't be removed. Landed up cutting them flush and drilling them out. Put in some nice ss bolts with anti seize.


how did you guys manage to break those bolts? or they broke by themselves when taking the nuts out?

op: i would look into buying used stock dp or take advantage and buy aftermarket dp

good luck
They were seized and I guess while trying to untorque them, the stud twisted off...
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      01-09-2013, 12:52 AM   #8
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If you didn't get those out already, take a cutting wheel and cut the flange parallel to the stud to release the tension. Then take a screw driver and hammer and it should come out pretty easy. M8 bolts fit in perfectly. This is a pretty common occurrence.
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      01-09-2013, 12:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *********** View Post
If you didn't get those out already, take a cutting wheel and cut the flange parallel to the stud to release the tension. Then take a screw driver and hammer and it should come out pretty easy. M8 bolts fit in perfectly. This is a pretty common occurrence.
Ive done that already, with heat applied as well. I dont want to hammer to hard bc of the turbo. Ive also tried an air gun. Im just going to have a shop drill it out.
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      01-15-2013, 06:19 PM   #10
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Does anyone know the stud part #? Or a replacement? I want something comparable to oem so they wont give me any problems for using other than oem bolts and nuts.
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      01-15-2013, 10:46 PM   #11
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There's no replacement part number for that stud. I recommend using grade 12 nuts and bolts to replace them. That'll keep you out of trouble in the future.
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      01-15-2013, 11:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l3n1356 View Post
They were seized and I guess while trying to untorque them, the stud twisted off...
Yes, the nut was seized. Landed up stripping the nut. I decided to grind the nut off and try to heat the stud up with a torch and punch it out. Then I realized it was welded - fml.
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      01-15-2013, 11:14 PM   #13
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You can punch them out, I've had to before.
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