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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > 2007 335i clutch won't work HELP!!!



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      01-17-2013, 12:33 PM   #23
Affify11
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Ok so brought the car into BMW of Edison and they said the clutch is blown and so is the clutch pedal with OTHER additional damage that could've happened. He knows its blown but he needs to get into it more to fully know what's going on. Now keep in mind my situation guys.. I'm from Tulsa, OK and I got this car 7k miles ago and I am now in NJ and i'm STUCK! I called BMW of tulsa yesterday to inform them about my situation and that I'm stranded halfway across the country. I was sold this car on Sep 1st with very little miles 28k, I am now at 35k.. How is my clutch already out? I'm freaking out over here cause they want to charge me 5k+ to fix it. I was simply sold a car with a defective clutch. Get this, I call BMW of tulsa countless times this morning with ZERO answers, now keep in mind they already know my situation. The service guy working on my car was even surprised that I just got the car and he told me to call your dealer asap! I told him I wasn't gonna pay for all that and that I WILL push it to BMW of NA. Any input would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!
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      01-17-2013, 01:07 PM   #24
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So BMW of Edison is telling you that the problem is a "worn" clutch that is not covered by the CPO warranty on a car with 35k miles?

I would definitely get in touch with the dealership you bought it from and immediately call BMW of NA if they are not willing to take care of it.
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      01-17-2013, 01:22 PM   #25
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Just got off the phone with bmw of Edison, and he said I need a new clutch, clutch pedal, hoses and linkage, flywheel, additional hoses and linkage=6k. I bought the car from BMW of Tulsa and the ONLY way I could get in contact with them was to call a friend IN tulsa, OK and send him to the dealer and get the sales managers number. Called him and he didn't even want to deal with it, let alone care that I was stuck 2000 miles away from home. Already contacted BMW of NA and they are gonna get back to me soon.
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      01-17-2013, 01:22 PM   #26
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Just got off the phone with bmw of Edison, and he said I need a new clutch, clutch pedal, hoses and linkage, flywheel, additional hoses and linkage=6k. I bought the car from BMW of Tulsa and the ONLY way I could get in contact with them was to call a friend IN tulsa, OK and send him to the dealer and get the sales managers number. Called him and he didn't even want to deal with it, let alone care that I was stuck 2000 miles away from home. Already contacted BMW of NA and they are gonna get back to me soon.
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      01-17-2013, 01:22 PM   #27
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Just got off the phone with bmw of Edison, and he said I need a new clutch, clutch pedal, hoses and linkage, flywheel, additional hoses and linkage=6k. I bought the car from BMW of Tulsa and the ONLY way I could get in contact with them was to call a friend IN tulsa, OK and send him to the dealer and get the sales managers number. Called him and he didn't even want to deal with it, let alone care that I was stuck 2000 miles away from home. Already contacted BMW of NA and they are gonna get back to me soon.
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      01-17-2013, 01:23 PM   #28
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OH! And the clutch slave master is out as well.. Sorry about post tweaking.
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      01-17-2013, 01:23 PM   #29
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OH! And the clutch slave master is out as well.. Sorry about post tweaking.
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      01-17-2013, 02:11 PM   #30
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I will go out on a limb and say all of that failing together is "impossible." The fluid on the clutch pedal indicates a bad clutch master cylinder. That is mounted inside the car and if it leaks, that is where fluid will end up. Once that goes, your clutch slave won't function and thus your pressure plate won't function. Push the clutch and you can't shift and clutch pedal is on the floor. Are they saying or implying that you abused the car or clutch in any way? It sounds fishy. Have they taken the transmission out? That is the only way they could come to the conclusion that the flywheel needs replaced unless they replace the flywheel every time they replace the clutch. It is a dual-mass flywheel and the springs can go bad. I would just tell them to fix the clutch master cylinder and be on my way.
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      01-17-2013, 02:39 PM   #31
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This is a BMW dealer ship, they want to make some money of your problem. Read my first post again.... The dealer said almost what i wrote verbatim.
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      01-17-2013, 03:04 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhawk36 View Post
I will go out on a limb and say all of that failing together is "impossible." The fluid on the clutch pedal indicates a bad clutch master cylinder. That is mounted inside the car and if it leaks, that is where fluid will end up. Once that goes, your clutch slave won't function and thus your pressure plate won't function. Push the clutch and you can't shift and clutch pedal is on the floor. Are they saying or implying that you abused the car or clutch in any way? It sounds fishy. Have they taken the transmission out? That is the only way they could come to the conclusion that the flywheel needs replaced unless they replace the flywheel every time they replace the clutch. It is a dual-mass flywheel and the springs can go bad. I would just tell them to fix the clutch master cylinder and be on my way.
+1

Bad master cylinder takes my vote. Have them fix that and see where that goes if you want them to do the work. I wouldn't do it there if they're trying to force that $hit down my throat.

The reason your car doesn't start is because your transmission is still engaged. It's still engaged because your master cylinder is leaking fluid.
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      01-17-2013, 03:18 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerfrk View Post
This is a BMW dealer ship, they want to make some money of your problem. Read my first post again.... The dealer said almost what i wrote verbatim.
Bimmerfrk, if you are talking about your "moneyshift" comment, I don't buy it. The "moneyshift" usually results in engine damage from overrevving. You downshift when you are trying to upshift, e.g., 3rd to 2nd when you meant to go to forth. Overrev protection is available via the DME only when you are accelerating and rpms are engine driven. It can't help you out when you are at 6,800 rpm and downshift accidentally driving rpm up well over the redline.

I suppose it could also cause the clutch to blow up but there is no way you can do a moneyshift and not know it.

Last edited by Blackhawk36; 01-18-2013 at 10:38 AM.
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      01-17-2013, 04:16 PM   #34
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A "moneyshift" would not damage the clutch master/slave cylinders, and I can't see how it would damage the clutch disk, flywheel, pressure plate or throwout bearing, either.
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      01-17-2013, 04:28 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roundel335 View Post
A "moneyshift" would not damage the clutch master/slave cylinders, and I can't see how it would damage the clutch disk, flywheel, pressure plate or throwout bearing, either.
money shift can cause the pressure plate to blow up.. actually, it's not really the plate, but the friction material - in the event that there is also clutch slippage during the event.

happened to my old car. Money shifted, which bent 4 exhaust valves and killled the clutch. when we removed the transmission, the bell housing was full of friction material which looked like steel wool. we're guessing the clutch slipped and got superheated which broke down the friction material, and puked it all inside the bell housing. It was messy, but the failing clutch saved the motor from worse damage.

Anyway, back on topic - this was no "money shift". like others said, most likely a bad Master cylinder, since you see brake fluid on the pedal. Start there and see if it fixes the problem.
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      01-17-2013, 05:38 PM   #36
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and here I thought a "money shift" was the shifting of major cash from your pocket to your dealers pocket!...

I would certainly get a second opinion here...

Totally agree that unless the transmission is out of the car, or there is an access panel to see inside the bell housing, that the dealer has no way of knowing what internal components are good or bad...

Maybe they know from experience...but that is still making big assumptions.

What they are telling you has happened sounds like it would only be the result of harsh or very hard driving...and I would think that you would have had symptoms, like a slipping clutch, sloppy shifts,etc...(I dont think very many of us take part in too many stop light races or practice clutch dumps on a regular basis)

If the fluid in the clutch's master cylinder was getting low, I would also think that you would have felt the clutch pedal effort changing as the fluid go lower and lower.....

keep us posted!

JP
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      01-17-2013, 05:42 PM   #37
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I definitely didn't money shift...A master Cylinder should be covered, but there's supposedly other parts that are 'damaged'..im not paying fxckin six grand.. I'll pay the 50$ deductible.
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      01-17-2013, 05:44 PM   #38
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BMW NA said they'd get back to me in 1-3 bussiness days...
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      01-17-2013, 05:46 PM   #39
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Another reason why It's pointless to dump all that money, I financed the car with 15k down and owed 8k. Now I owe 6k... So pay off the car or fix the clutch. How messed up is that..
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      01-17-2013, 05:50 PM   #40
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go to enterprise rent a truck, go to u-haul rent a trailer.
Put the bmw on the car trailer drive the enterprise car to OK. and shove the bmw Up the Dealerships ass.
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      01-17-2013, 08:23 PM   #41
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By the sounds of it, it is 100% master that failed , that's why you have brake fluid on the pedal. I would just change that ( it is about 1/2 labour hour to replace ) just bleeding the clutch is a pain.
It is a shame that the dealer ( well I could be wrong ) is using your misfortune of the situation and trying to rape you out in the open.
I don't believe that you did anything wrong with the car since you have put a few miles on it , and got as far as you did probably mostly highway.

Again I would change the master only. Any mechanic would do it for reasonable money ( still a fraction in comparison to a dealer estimate )
The would get the car home, and to the dealer I gooooooo !
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      01-17-2013, 09:40 PM   #42
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Shouldn't the master cylinder be covered by the CPO warranty?
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      01-18-2013, 09:06 AM   #43
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CPO Warranty covers drivetrain, so that would imply transmission, which implies the clutch and its activation mechanism. This should be covered.
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      01-18-2013, 09:26 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roundel335 View Post
CPO Warranty covers drivetrain, so that would imply transmission, which implies the clutch and its activation mechanism. This should be covered.
I believe the clutch is considered an "upkeep item" similar to brake pads and rotors. So it wouldn't covered under CPO.

It's also easy to destroy a clutch within 7k miles, not saying the OP did, but it would be near impossible to prove otherwise.

OP - just keep hassling the dealer and the BMW NA. Most likely they will agree to cover labor if you pay for the parts. But at the same time you will ruin your relationship with your SA. Either way good luck.
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