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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > Regional Forums > UK > UK Technical Forum > e92 335i heater problem advice needed.really stuck.



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      11-09-2012, 08:18 AM   #1
eg9_dc2
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e92 335i heater problem advice needed.really stuck.

-had my car on a dis and i have no fault code
-ive had the coolant flushed out, changed, had the pipes from the core checked they are hot,had it bleeded with those vacuum tool things
- changed the thermostat even though it wasnt faulty and had no codes for it.

i read most of the temp sensors through the dis computer and they showed no faults and even moved up and down temps accordingly when i was adjusting the variables

my car was fine prior to running low with water from a small leak when the heaters went cold which is leading to believe it cant possibly be anything electrical?

my heaters have gone from blowing no hot air to blowing hot air for 25 seconds if i leave em off for about 20mins at a time with the car running upto temp

ive been advised to:

-change blower/resistor pack as it regulates temperature? i thought it only controls the fan speed?

-change the controls on the dash? i KNOW they have an internal temp sensor.everything else works fine, the heaters switch around, ac works, auto button

-possible fins on the water pump are broken? (not pushing the water around? theory doesnt make sense to me)

-partially blocked core? ...why would it let heat out for 25-30secs? and why would the pipes on the core be pretty hot..both of them (minus heat soak you can pretty much feel the hot water inside the pipes)

-bleed the car with the front end raised? im pretty sure the heater stopped coming out when water went low, i thought id add water and it should be ok ok it wasnt! then i had it flushed/bleeded with the vacuum pump tool from 1 garage, and had another garage try bleed it but they said it was fine.

i really dont know what the hell it could be....as no fault codes!! ..is it safe to assume that means electrics are ok?? tied in with the fact that low water is what seems to have caused the heat to stop working in the first place


i dont want to spend lots of money on things that are not even gonna fix the damn problem. id like to think garages would be able to use abit of logic as opposed to just guessing things but thats not how it works sadly! lol.

any advice please?
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      11-09-2012, 06:43 PM   #2
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a guide aboutr the heater system and how it works....the IHKA system.
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      11-09-2012, 08:25 PM   #3
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I would be pretty certain the system needs the air bleeding out of it, if you ran low on water which you said happened then it will almost certainly be that.

I see you had it bled all ready, but obviously not properly, it can be very tricky to do.
I've not done it on my (or any BMW) but had to do it on a couple of other cars I've had.

I would get them to do it again, engine warm, pressurise system, heater on full blat… it can take several attempts..
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      11-09-2012, 10:47 PM   #4
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im gonna try to get it bleeded again......on a tilt,


forgot to add the link in for reference before.

http://www.bmwclub.lv/files/07_E85_H...__Air_Cond.pdf

if the bleeding doesnt work then god knows.
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      11-10-2012, 07:42 AM   #5
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LOL feel your pain you are in exactly the same position I'm in.

I say bleed, cos the symptoms and events leading up to failure seem to point to air in the system.

I still can't find a steep ramp to sit on and do the bleed. Might go to my local multi-storey car park this evening and use the ramps that go from floor to floor. They're quite steep. Tried tilting side to side but no improvement.

I'm starting to come to terms that I'm gonna have to remove the dash etc to inspect the damn heater box/matrix/flaps if it doesn't work.

Sh!tty beemers - I was giving it beans on the motorway and the small plastic bit that covers the join btwn windscreen wiper & arm just flew off. Such poor design quality this stuff never happened with my Lexus.
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      11-11-2012, 06:50 AM   #6
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Try the venting procedure 2-3 times...with your battery hooked upto another car so u dont lose power

n get back on dis...do the flap tests...read the 3-4 temp sensors...try to hear the mixer flaps powering when u adjust temp....etc.

mayb try a second hand heater control-module.feel the heater core pipes they r easy to reach to see if they are hot.squeeze them so you know the water inside is hot instead of heat soaked pipe....
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      11-12-2012, 06:13 AM   #7
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Already tried to use a new control panel - no success - it's for sale on here!
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      11-18-2012, 06:27 PM   #8
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this is really annoying me now.....today i noticed my rear defrost grid isnt working but the button works...and both heater core pipes are verry hot..can barely touch them....the other day 1 wasnt hot so now i dont know if i should give it in for a core replacement.
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      11-19-2012, 11:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eg9_dc2
this is really annoying me now.....today i noticed my rear defrost grid isnt working but the button works...and both heater core pipes are verry hot..can barely touch them....the other day 1 wasnt hot so now i dont know if i should give it in for a core replacement.
window tints can reduce the effectiveness of the rear demister
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      11-21-2012, 04:11 AM   #10
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I have no tints but its started to work now coupled with abit of heat it demists very fast.having a new core put in should have it back in a few hours...fingers crossed.

Paid 200quid labour and 100quid part.not so bad.given it fixes the problem and i get
no sqeeks n scratches on the dash after.
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      11-21-2012, 02:59 PM   #11
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blimey £200 quid. Bargain!

I'm currently lined up for a £420 bill from berry heathrow just to inspect the matrix/flaps (dash removal)

then maybe £100ish for maybe a flap/motor or £££ for matrix.

how much was the matrix BTW? Where from etc?

any idea of flap/motor costs?
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      11-24-2012, 01:24 AM   #12
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UPDATE

mines fixed.it was the heater core(inside the matrix). cost me 150quid from bmw , and labour was actually 300quid at an indy and the dash is perfect lol.

i would advise you re check evrything on your car.

1)put your heaters on with the car off.low setting fan.then change the temp from full high to full low and low to high and LISTEN by the middle vents to hear the blend doors electric humming.change from full hot to full cold on both sides quickly.if they are humming they should be working. park somewhere quiet.

2)see if you have even a small amount of heat.put it on cold, full cold, then adjust both sides to full hot and see if it changes abit.even abit means they are working.i had heat on level 1 fan.i had heat for 30 secs on full. i had on 1 side only sometimes too!

3) heater core...my pipes were very funny.sometimes they were both hot indicating water is flowing through the core but it can still have a partial blockage.. my best advice would be just get the core done. thier isnt much else that can be wrong.

dont listen to silly advice about water pumps,...thermostats and fuses and sensors. or anything else.electric faults normally show up.

flap motors can apparantly be physically checked just by removing the vents!? not sure. and if you are gonna pay for the dash removal they might aswell check/change the core.

just bite the bullet mate.
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      01-20-2013, 03:38 PM   #13
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Indeed - mine was the Matrix also!

But I didn't need to replace thankfully. Just a good blow through with compressed air managed to clear it out enough for it to work 100% (or at least it feels like 100%).

See here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=35
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