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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Need help with some recent issues... Crank shaft pulley? Belt?



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      01-23-2013, 09:35 PM   #1
psmitty95
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Need help with some recent issues... Crank shaft pulley? Belt?

So basically over the last few months i've been feeling like my car isn't running right but don't really know what's wrong. It's a 2009 335xi with around 54k miles on it right now and no warranty. It's basically a combination of things that have been getting me worried and instead of throwing parts at it I wanted to see if anyone here has had similar issues and can provide help.

The first issue and maybe easiest to fix is a rough idle. When i'm sitting in a lot for a while with the car idling at operating temps i'll notice an occasional vibration or unsteadiness to the idle. I'm assuming this might be able to be fixed with a walnut blasting but don't really know?

The next issue i'm having is a noise which started a few months ago over the summer. During the summer basically if I gave the car light throttle in neutral and kept it under 1k it would produce a squeaking noise. That went away a few weeks after so I ignored it but now i'm having another squeak every time I shut off the car... I read someone on here had a squeaking issue too and it was the clamps on the downpipes being cracked or broken. Is that a possibility? The other thing i'm thinking is maybe the crankshaft pulley and or belt needs to be replaced? If that's the case my main question is should I go aftermarket or stick to oem? I know NST has their lightweight pulley and ECS has their "quick spool" pulley but don't really know if they have gains. I was also reading about them getting rid of acoustics, harmonics (or something like that) which the oem one has but don't really know much about this... Can anyone elaborate?

The last issue i've been having is what feels like very subtle misfires. I had the spark plugs replaced at 48k miles and then got some bad misfires around 52-53k miles and it wound up being the cyl 3 injector so I replaced that and had it coded in. Basically if I go into any of the higher gears and floor it from a low RPM the car just sounds awful. The best way to describe it is a sort of droning sound and the car starts to vibrate slightly. It doesn't really feel like a misfire but I don't know what else could cause that... Today I was also doing a quick 3rd gear pull and the car sort of stuttered a tiny bit like a misfire but no codes or anything of that sort.

I was basically just assuming all this stuff came with the territory of a high mileage car over the last few weeks but today decided I should probably look into them. I've done a few pulls with friends cars who I think I should've beat by a lot more than I have so I really don't think it's running as it should... Either way any help or insight on any of these issues would be greatly appreciated.

Thread I made over the summer about that noise (has a video with that squeaking noise when reving up to 1):
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=760590

Video from recently. You can hear the noise towards the end after the car shuts off. It's a high pitched squeak and happens pretty much every time I shut the car off.




Edit: Forgot another issue i've been having although its more related to the tune and not the car running incorrectly. Basically occasionally during a third gear pull i'll get a SES light and then the car won't boost over 5 PSI. Once its restarted everything is fine though. The one time I turned off autoclear the 2 out of the ordinary codes I got were "29E1 Fuel mixture control 2" and "2D2E angle of throttle valve * intake pipe underpressure. Correlation" I also looked at some logs from early december and noticed the car was overboosting the target at some points. Could this be whats causing this? Anything to worry about or is this maybe just an issue since its so cold?
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      01-24-2013, 01:37 PM   #2
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      01-24-2013, 01:42 PM   #3
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Ignition coils, injectors, could be anything, your valves probably need cleaning by now? Do a proper diagnostic and see what it is
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      01-24-2013, 01:49 PM   #4
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I'd highly recommend an intake valve cleaning at this mileage.

You can check your spark plugs for fouling and that could indicate you have a leaky injector.

Take 1 step at a time. I dont want to recommend too much just yet until you get all the obvious things checked like intake valve cleaning and checking the spark plugs condition.

That droning sound while trying to floor it could be the car pulling lots of timing, or something else.
You should get logs, but I really dont recommend beating on the car too much until you sort everything out.

Remember cars are pretty basic machines, for your engine you just need air fuel and spark. So start with one.

Air being your intake valves. Spark being your spark plugs, tune and coils, and fuel would be your injectors pumps and tune.

In your tune I would reset all adaptations and re upload to the latest finalized firmware and maps.

As far as squeaking it could be the belt rubbing. I recall a few people finding out that their belt was rubbing on or near the sub frame. Check the condition of the belt and ribs. Take a picture if you dont know what your looking for. The picture needs to be both the underside and top side of belt. You can google some images of belts to see if its worn out or wearing incorrectly.
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      01-24-2013, 04:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apme123 View Post
Ignition coils, injectors, could be anything, your valves probably need cleaning by now? Do a proper diagnostic and see what it is
Yea I probably should look into getting the valves cleaned...

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Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
I'd highly recommend an intake valve cleaning at this mileage.

You can check your spark plugs for fouling and that could indicate you have a leaky injector.

Take 1 step at a time. I dont want to recommend too much just yet until you get all the obvious things checked like intake valve cleaning and checking the spark plugs condition.

That droning sound while trying to floor it could be the car pulling lots of timing, or something else.
You should get logs, but I really dont recommend beating on the car too much until you sort everything out.

Remember cars are pretty basic machines, for your engine you just need air fuel and spark. So start with one.

Air being your intake valves. Spark being your spark plugs, tune and coils, and fuel would be your injectors pumps and tune.

In your tune I would reset all adaptations and re upload to the latest finalized firmware and maps.

As far as squeaking it could be the belt rubbing. I recall a few people finding out that their belt was rubbing on or near the sub frame. Check the condition of the belt and ribs. Take a picture if you dont know what your looking for. The picture needs to be both the underside and top side of belt. You can google some images of belts to see if its worn out or wearing incorrectly.
First and foremost thank you for the detailed post and the help! I definitely think I need an intake valve cleaning at this mileage. I'm going to start looking into that and while its at that shop i'll probably have them diagnose these problems to see what needs to be replaced. Tomorrow i'll try to grab a log doing a sixth gear pull and post it up here and i'll also try to grab some pics of the belt when I remove the bumper later either this week or next. Thanks again!
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      01-24-2013, 09:06 PM   #6
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1. As stated above, if you've eliminated the possibility of plugs, it's likely your misfires are likely being caused by dirty valves or a leaky injector. Major consensus is that valve cleaning should be done by 40k miles, although mine were dirty enough by 37k to be causing persistent misfires.
2. tune is reverting to stock map (a safe mode essentially not boosting over 5-7psi): likely a fuel trim issue / incorrect settings dialed in on tune. keep in mind the car reacts differently in colder weather.
3. If you had tried using the feature, you'd see that your 2D2E code is a plausibility code that can pop up from time to time when adjustments are made lagfix in the JB4. the 29E1 is common with E85 mixtures when the fuel system/DME isn't happy.
4. I know exactly what "droning" noise you're referring to. I have the same thing in my car sometimes at light throttle going uphill, etc. My only conclusion at this point is it's normal operation (I was under the impression it was a cam lifter) as I was able to replicate it in 2 other 335's. Unsure about this one, though I had my shop foreman check it out and he reported no issues.
5. the noise could a belt/pulley squeeking as it comes to a stop, but the video/information is too vague to be certain. You would need to pull things apart to know more conclusively. There are tons of threads on here about why the NST and other lightweight crank pulleys are terrible for these cars due to a lack of harmonic dampening.
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      01-24-2013, 09:08 PM   #7
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High mileage causes these issues......
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      01-24-2013, 09:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
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High mileage causes these issues......
+1.

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      01-24-2013, 09:34 PM   #9
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High mileage causes these issues......
I definitely agree the high mileage is causing this and that's expected but not the persistent issue's i've been having. I understand it's a turbo car and high miles but it's also an expensive car that should be well built and able to work well even when it gets into higher mileage.

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1. As stated above, if you've eliminated the possibility of plugs, it's likely your misfires are likely being caused by dirty valves or a leaky injector. Major consensus is that valve cleaning should be done by 40k miles, although mine were dirty enough by 37k to be causing persistent misfires.
2. tune is reverting to stock map (a safe mode essentially not boosting over 5-7psi): likely a fuel trim issue / incorrect settings dialed in on tune. keep in mind the car reacts differently in colder weather.
3. If you had tried using the feature, you'd see that your 2D2E code is a plausibility code that can pop up from time to time when adjustments are made lagfix in the JB4. the 29E1 is common with E85 mixtures when the fuel system/DME isn't happy.
4. I know exactly what "droning" noise you're referring to. I have the same thing in my car sometimes at light throttle going uphill, etc. My only conclusion at this point is it's normal operation (I was under the impression it was a cam lifter) as I was able to replicate it in 2 other 335's. Unsure about this one, though I had my shop foreman check it out and he reported no issues.
5. the noise could a belt/pulley squeeking as it comes to a stop, but the video/information is too vague to be certain. You would need to pull things apart to know more conclusively. There are tons of threads on here about why the NST and other lightweight crank pulleys are terrible for these cars due to a lack of harmonic dampening.
Thanks for the detailed answer! Definitely going to get a valve cleaning done asap and I hope that clears up the problems. In regards to the codes I did search and neither really fit in with what i'm experiencing. I also emailed them to Terry and he said it's odd and he'd need a log while it's happening to see what's going on. I wasn't changing lagfix so idk why the first one would pop up and I was running a very low E85 mix also. They've also popped up with no E85 in the car. In regards to the other stuff I hope it's normal but we'll see. When I have autocouture do the valve cleaning in a few weeks i'll let them try to diagnose the issues. After that i'll probably take it up to Bryce to get his opinion on things and let him start doing the work. I've done some searching on the pulley but get many mixed results. Lots of people say the lack of harmonic dampening is an issue but others including people running the pulley's say it's no problem. Bryce also recommended going with an upgraded pulley although I don't know for sure which route to go yet. I'm going to do more research but was hoping maybe someone with similar issues could have jumped in and provided some insight.
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      01-26-2013, 01:27 PM   #10
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Figured i'd update this. Finally got a cylinder 5 misfire code yesterday so i'm going to head out and start diagnosing soon.
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      02-24-2013, 01:32 PM   #11
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Another update finally got the car to throw a misfire code again and it stuck with cylinder 5. I'm ruling out spark plugs since they were replaced at the dealer 6k miles ago so I think its another injector. Now here's my question... Would I be better off replacing all 6 with the new model number injector or trying to source just one of the old ones and doing that? I replaced the cylinder 3 injector probably 2,000 miles ago so maybe better to just do this one instead of wasting the cylinder 3?
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      02-24-2013, 02:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Another update finally got the car to throw a misfire code again and it stuck with cylinder 5. I'm ruling out spark plugs since they were replaced at the dealer 6k miles ago so I think its another injector. Now here's my question... Would I be better off replacing all 6 with the new model number injector or trying to source just one of the old ones and doing that? I replaced the cylinder 3 injector probably 2,000 miles ago so maybe better to just do this one instead of wasting the cylinder 3?
If it were my car, I'd probably just replace all the injectors with the latest version and be done with it. That and the valve cleaning should make a huge difference in how the engine runs and performs.
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      02-24-2013, 02:26 PM   #13
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problem is new injectors are very expensive. costs double as much than previous version and old version are going out from stock. if you are lucky you might be able to find 6 old version but if not you are forced to buy the new one since you cannot mix those with old ones.
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      02-24-2013, 03:17 PM   #14
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problem is new injectors are very expensive. costs double as much than previous version and old version are going out from stock. if you are lucky you might be able to find 6 old version but if not you are forced to buy the new one since you cannot mix those with old ones.
I'm going to PM Jason@Tischer and see if they have any of the old injectors in stock. If not I guess i'll just have to do the new ones
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      02-24-2013, 04:39 PM   #15
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CARBON

My shop foreman informed me that the most common cylinder that suffers from carbon buildup misfires is cyl 5.
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      02-24-2013, 04:49 PM   #16
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CARBON

My shop foreman informed me that the most common cylinder that suffers from carbon buildup misfires is cyl 5.
Really? Maybe i'll get that done before dropping money on the injector then... I was planning on getting the carbon cleaning done this spring but maybe now I should bump it up to asap
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      02-24-2013, 05:23 PM   #17
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Either that or a cracked piston in cylinder 5.
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      02-24-2013, 05:32 PM   #18
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Either that or a cracked piston in cylinder 5.
Ehh I think that is highly unlikely...
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      03-27-2013, 09:37 PM   #19
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Had the belt replaced and still squeaking when shutting off. It also does it while decelerating or putting in the clutch from like 1.2k down to idle... Any other ideas?
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      04-01-2013, 05:25 PM   #20
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Anyone... Here's a video of how the car is now. In the first clip you can hear it at the end when I shut the car off

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      04-01-2013, 05:55 PM   #21
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I could be wrong, but the pully problem I thought was only for the non-XI's.
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      04-01-2013, 06:38 PM   #22
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I could be wrong, but the pully problem I thought was only for the non-XI's.
Hmm idk what pulley problem your talking about. I dont even know if my problem is a pulley issue, right now i'm really just lost on what could be causing the noise
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