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      02-01-2013, 09:58 PM   #1
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DFFF -- Dont Fear the Fuel Filter

With all the concern about injectors and intake carbonization, I think it is even more important that we make sure our fuel filters are changed. So here you go:

Credit where credit is due: Great info on changing fuel filter in a 330d in this UK thread: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=387120

Now, here is more info:
For parts you will need:
1. 13-32-7-793-672 Fuel Filter Cartridge (I got this from Tischer for $41.47)
2. Small hose clamp (I had to run off to get some of these in the middle of the job)

Besides a jack and ramps, For tools, you will need:
1. 8mm socket driver for removing the car bottom cover,
2. socket ratchet with small extension for bracket bolt (I forget size of bolt head),
3. small torx driver for filter clamping bolt,
4. big screwdriver or pliers to remove clip from rear of filter
5. cutters/hacksaw/dremel to remove band securing fuel hose to nipple of filter.
6. MOST IMPORTANT: EYE PROTECTION!!! Lots of crap falls down when you are under a car, and if you choose the dremel removal technique you dont want metal splinters in your eyeballs

1. I drove my front wheels up on ramps (I have to put some 1/2 inch pine boards in front of the ramps so the front overhang is clear, and I backed the ramps with the rock salt bags to stop the ramps from being pushed forward) and jacked up a bit from the rear driver's side (U.S. Left Drive Car) jack point. I did not jack the rear wheel off the ground, just gave myself more breathing room under that side of the car. Make sure el tranny is in park and your parking brake is on and I added bags of rock salt behind a two wheels to inhibit rolling (my driveway is slightly slanted). I also added a second jack under the body next to the main jack as a backup.

2. Slide under the driver's side and remove the bolts holding the cover on the left side of the car (there are around eight or nine). Rotate the entire cover horizontally until the slot on the passenger side of the cover aligns with the two lugs and the cover will come down and you can push it aside.

3. You will now see your enemy: the old filter. Remove the brack bolt with a ratchet and extension (not sure the size, probably around 14mm). Now a weird device with wires will drop free and you can push that out of the way. The filter will also be held only by the rear clip and the front fuel hose and crimp on type clamp.

4. You can remove the front fuel hose clamp now with a pair of cutters/hacksaw or dremel (be careful with the dremel as if it goes flying there are some other things around that it could damage such as a braided hose nearby).

5. At this point, I removed the rear clip with a screw driver (twisting) and worked the base (pump?) out of the rear of the filter and allowed fuel to drain into the catch pan. I then pulled the filter out of the front fuel hose.

6. After removing the torx bolt (T15?) holding the filter ot the bracket, I moved the bracket to the new filter, and installed the filter by twisting it onto the base, reinserting the rear clip, placing a new hose clamp on the front fuel hose, inserting the front nipple of the fuel filter into the front fuel hose, tightening down the front hose clamp, positioning the bracket so the hole aligns with the bracket bolt, tightening the torx bolt, and then installing the bracket bolt with the wierd mechanical/electrical device in its original position.

7. The linked post describes holding down the start button without touching the pedals for ten seconds and the car is supposed to remove the air from the fuel system. I tried this twice, but I am not sure how well it worked. So I would do it but YMMV. After this, I tried to crank it and it cranked for about 20 seconds and didnt start. Then on my next try it started. I checked for fuel leaks, found none and then buttoned up the bottom cover.

Good Luck and Happy Fueling!!!
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Last edited by Quasimodem; 02-01-2013 at 10:11 PM.
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      02-02-2013, 06:20 AM   #2
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Awesome thanks!
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      02-02-2013, 08:10 AM   #3
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Thanks for posting this, bud! Its good to see the pics for the next time I'm due for a FF change.

Two things...
-what was the piece you had to hack off & why? I wouldn't have suspected there would be anything that would have to be removed like this.
-I think it would be wise to purchase a BT tool if anyone is doing their own FF changes in order to properly purge the air from the line before attempting to start. Would uou aggree (just in case the hold-the-on-button purge doesnt work)? Running the FP dry for 20 seconds is going to cause more wear than thousands of miles of normal driving. Just a thought.
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      02-02-2013, 08:27 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FormerRotor View Post
-I think it would be wise to purchase a BT tool if anyone is doing their own FF changes in order to properly purge the air from the line before attempting to start. Would uou aggree (just in case the hold-the-on-button purge doesnt work)? Running the FP dry for 20 seconds is going to cause more wear than thousands of miles of normal driving. Just a thought.
Agree with this, from what I've read elsewhere it's a very good idea to make certain to prime the HPFP prior to starting the car - remember that our fuel is the lubricant for the pump. I've also read that the start button method hasn't worked, thus the suggestion for using the BT tool is dead on the mark.

Thank you for sharing this Quasimodem, great stuff!
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      02-02-2013, 11:54 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FormerRotor View Post
Thanks for posting this, bud! Its good to see the pics for the next time I'm due for a FF change.

Two things...
-what was the piece you had to hack off & why? I wouldn't have suspected there would be anything that would have to be removed like this.
-I think it would be wise to purchase a BT tool if anyone is doing their own FF changes in order to properly purge the air from the line before attempting to start. Would uou aggree (just in case the hold-the-on-button purge doesnt work)? Running the FP dry for 20 seconds is going to cause more wear than thousands of miles of normal driving. Just a thought.
The hacked off piece was just crimp-on disposable hose clamp clamping the hose around the front nipple of the fuel filter. It is visible on the 5th photo in the middle of the hose (sorry about the blurry photos).

Yes, I would agree that there should be a better way to purge the air out of the system, and verify that it has been done. I couldnt hear the system do much of all in the way of air purging when I held the On/Off button for ten seconds and then waited a minute as per the instructions in the linked article.
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      02-02-2013, 01:20 PM   #6
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I wonder why they decided on a bottom mount instead of engine bay mount set up? The fact of access and cleanliness alone would warrant the placement in my mind :thumb down


Either way, thanks for the post! Now I can sharpie the old filter to verify in the future they change it!
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      02-02-2013, 05:20 PM   #7
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Thanks for posting the pics!

When I changed the filter, and also when installing the 2um Stanadyne Fuel Manager final filter setup, I had to use the BT tool to energize the low pressure fuel pump to flush/prime the system. The Start/Stop button did not work for me. I'd highly suggest you prime the system to get fuel (the lubrication) to the HPFP before trying to start the car, for the long term health of your HPFP.

How to use the BT to initiate the low pressure fuel pump:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=27

"However, if you were to, say, use a BT (www.bavariantechnic.com/) then you could go under the Fuel Pump menu to the Activation sub menu and turn on/off the in tank lift pump. The fact that he wrote “may take a few cranks
” to start his engine makes me believe he wasn’t, in fact, initiating the lift pump like he thought. I think this because for, some reason, I know that if you cycle the lift pump with the BT then the engine will fire up as fast as normal.
"
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      02-02-2013, 06:25 PM   #8
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This is key info! Cut that oil filter in two and let see the media, water, gunk and whatever else is in there.
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      02-04-2013, 06:31 AM   #9
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Great job amigo
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      02-04-2013, 01:08 PM   #10
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water softener salt???

bags of water softener salt for jack-stands?!?


YIKES!


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      02-04-2013, 02:15 PM   #11
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I think the bags o' salt were to prevent rolling away - or the ramps from sliding in this case. You can also see from his pics and description that he was on ramps - the jack(s) were just there for a little extra clearance.
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      02-04-2013, 02:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
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bags of water softener salt for jack-stands?!?


YIKES!


Looks like he's using them for wheel chocks.
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      02-04-2013, 02:58 PM   #13
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Great write up. Thanks for taking the time
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      02-04-2013, 11:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timujin View Post
This is key info! Cut that oil filter in two and let see the media, water, gunk and whatever else is in there.
Yeah, I might do that, but I wish they were clear like a lot of fuel filters.
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      02-11-2013, 06:50 PM   #15
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Hmmm. The fuel filter cartridge on my my car shows WK 5001. Yours shows a WK 519.

I see we both have 2009 models and that the fuel filter changed at some point in 2010 models.

Are you sure 100% that the one you got is correct?

Anyone else?

Here is a link:

Link

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      02-12-2013, 11:30 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreekboyD View Post
Hmmm. The fuel filter cartridge on my my car shows WK 5001. Yours shows a WK 519.

I see we both have 2009 models and that the fuel filter changed at some point in 2010 models.

Are you sure 100% that the one you got is correct?

Anyone else?

Here is a link:

Link
Do you know the significance of the "WK" designation? Could that be just a production group marking and not a distinct part number? Any idea why they changed the filter in 2010? Often when they make changes, the new parts are changed for the better and are speced for the older models too. I cant imagine how a filter would change that would not be good for older models too. But I will look into it and see what I can find. I bought that filter over a year ago and just put it in recently. I usually put my car specs in GetBMWparts and use the part numbers from there for Tischer purchase.

Edit: Fuel Filter purchase date from tischer was 12/28/11.
Okay, take a look at this: http://seekpart24.com/mann/fuel-filt...00253&at=21367 It seems to indicate that the 5001 does replace the 519. It appears that I put an older filter on my car. I am sure the new one is better.
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      02-12-2013, 03:04 PM   #17
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My buddy ordered the "WK 5001" one and asked them about the production date possibility. This was the reply that he got:

"Glad to hear you received the part and all went well.

And Yes, that is the exact reason why I needed your VIN, as we are all about making sure you get the correct part required. In fact as per BMW application restrictions, this Fuel Filter is only good for a 335d from 2009 to 2010 Year Model and "Through 01/2010" Production Year...

- So in other words; this is good for 05/2008 Up To 01/2010 Production Date.
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      02-12-2013, 10:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreekboyD View Post
My buddy ordered the "WK 5001" one and asked them about the production date possibility. This was the reply that he got:

"Glad to hear you received the part and all went well.

And Yes, that is the exact reason why I needed your VIN, as we are all about making sure you get the correct part required. In fact as per BMW application restrictions, this Fuel Filter is only good for a 335d from 2009 to 2010 Year Model and "Through 01/2010" Production Year...

- So in other words; this is good for 05/2008 Up To 01/2010 Production Date.
Wierd. Well, my box has P/N 13327793672 on it. Do you have a P/N for the WK 5001? That link does show the 5001 as a replacement for the WK 519 and it shows three P/Ns, one of them is 13327793672, so I am pretty sure that the filters are interchangeable.

When I do a search for that P/N on Tischer it brings up a fuel filter, but it says that it cant confirm that it fits my car. And after inputing my year and model into Tischer, and I do a search under the fuel system on tischer, it doesnt show any fuel filter that I can find.

Doing a search for WK5001, I come up a lot with "Mann" WK5001, so I think that is the Mann code for the same fuel filter. It is confusing because they both use "WK" so it makes it seem like it is the same code system, but I think it is something like the Fram system which is different. I think a Mann WK5001 = a BMW WK519, but the Mann appears cheaper.
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      02-12-2013, 10:09 PM   #19
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P/N is the exact same as yours above. Would be good if someone emailed BMW for an explanation...lol
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      02-13-2013, 12:17 AM   #20
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P/N is the exact same as yours above. Would be good if someone emailed BMW for an explanation...lol
I went to realoem and input a 2011 US 335d (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...15&hg=13&fg=10) and the same p/n came up and it had a photo attached which has a "19" barely visible on it indicating it is that last of the "519" part of wk 519. Of course, it could be an old picture accidentally left up there if the actual new part is a different wk number, so who knows. I think the only way would be fore a person with a 2011 US to check the filter and see if it is a different number.

P.S. It's called a "fuel strainer" which may explain why I can never find it looking for "filter" or "fuel filter".
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      02-18-2013, 10:03 PM   #21
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Could you show us in the 5th Photo where exactly you CUT? thank you
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      02-18-2013, 11:45 PM   #22
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Could you show us in the 5th Photo where exactly you CUT? thank you
see attached photo.
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