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      05-11-2012, 09:13 AM   #1
rondocap
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Door lock not working, fuses?

So today I go to unlock my car, and remote wont work. It's not the battery because the door lock button in the car also will not lock or unlock the car.

Is it possible a fuse blew? Which should I change in a 2008 335i?

I do have a laser interceptor connected to the fuse box, I wonder if its related.
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      05-11-2012, 09:41 AM   #2
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It's a fuse. It's happened to me several times. I think it's #57 and you'll need to replace the 15 amp with a 20 amp. That will get them to work but sometimes it's the door actuator that'll need to be replaced. I tried to get them to replace them but they tried the fuse instead and it worked for about six months.
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      05-11-2012, 05:39 PM   #3
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Hm, 57 isnt the door locks on m 2008. Says 61,72,73,79.

No fuse in 61, could it be 72? Passenger door wont open, hard to get to the fuse box.
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      05-11-2012, 06:54 PM   #4
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PROBLEM: Doors will not unlock using key fob or central locking button (up to 11/2008 production). One or more of the doors may not unlock when using the remote ley outside the vehicle, or the central locking button inside the car.

SOLUTION: Typically fault codes (A6D4 and A6D5) are stored in the junction box electronics (JBBF). This is due to a blow fuse in the JBBF caused by either excessive amp draw by one of the door lock actuators (commonly caused by silicon spray contamination) or by an intermittent amperage spike (above 15A) due to normal variations in the locking system. Never spray silicon products into the latch, as this will lead to premature failure.

Inspect fuse 57 (up to 9/07 production) or 73 (from 9/07 production) in the JBE. Replace the blown fuse with a 20A. Test the locking function by activating door locks 10 times in succession via the central locking switch. Thermal protection will be activated after about 15 succession activations and does not indicate any damage. Observe the operation of each lock actuator during the test. Damaged/faulty actuators will operate slowly and/or make unusual noises.

If either one of the front door lock actuators is determined to be the source of the blown fuse, both front door latches (which contain the lock actuators) should be replaced.

If either one of the rear door lock actuators is determined to be the source of the blow fuse, only that single faulty latch should be replaced.

If one of the front lock actuators and one of the rear lock actuators appears to be faulty, both front latches and the single faulty rear latch should be replaced.

If no faulty lock actuators can be identified, wait 2 minutes and then repeat successive (10 times) locking test. If no faulty lock actuators can be identified, no further action is required.
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      05-11-2012, 07:02 PM   #5
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Anyway i can unlock the passenger door to get to the fuse box?
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      05-11-2012, 09:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rondocap View Post
Anyway i can unlock the passenger door to get to the fuse box?
To open the door, pull the passenger door handle twice. This will manually unlock the door. Fuse box should be behind the glove box.
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      05-14-2012, 08:19 PM   #7
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just happened to me today in my 06 330i....anyone know what fuse to try for drivers side front door?
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      05-14-2012, 08:23 PM   #8
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I had a similar issue, I ended up replacing a 5amp for the alarm, doors and fob worked again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rondocap View Post
So today I go to unlock my car, and remote wont work. It's not the battery because the door lock button in the car also will not lock or unlock the car.

Is it possible a fuse blew? Which should I change in a 2008 335i?

I do have a laser interceptor connected to the fuse box, I wonder if its related.
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      05-15-2012, 06:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamann69 View Post
just happened to me today in my 06 330i....anyone know what fuse to try for drivers side front door?
should be fuse 57 up to 9/07 production. 73 from 9/07. replace the 15amp with a 20amp.
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      02-05-2013, 09:08 PM   #10
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I had the same issue with my 2006 325. It was fuse 57. I didn't realize that I need to replace the with the 20A fuse.

However once I replaced all four worked for the first day. The second day only 3 of 4 work. The driver door is not working with the FOB or central lock button. I've tried to disconnect the battery for 25-30 mins. Still not working. I can hear the noise of the actuator working. The door will lock (with button & FOB), but won't unlock.

Any suggestions?
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