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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Here we go again BATTERY REGISTRATION



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      05-07-2013, 05:55 PM   #1
46m3csl
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Here we go again BATTERY REGISTRATION

I need to replace my battery and I am hearing a lot of different things. Today I went to like 4 shops, 2 people say I don't need to register what so ever and buy a battery from walmart and use it. Next one says make sure its a Bmw Battery and then register it and said make sure its the same amps and will charge $70. Last guy said just use a interstate battery that just make sure its not less cca then the original and can sell me one for $160 and register for total of $160 but $40 if I bring my own battery. I know recently that someone on the form came out with the software where it always us to register the battery, I was thinking about ordering the cable and registering it myself.
If anyone near my area already has the cable and software more than willing to pay you for your time.
Thanks for the Help guys
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      05-07-2013, 06:04 PM   #2
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yes, you need it. Can the BT do it? Not sure, I've only used my BT once.
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      05-07-2013, 06:32 PM   #3
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You don't need a bmw battery but you 100% do need to register or you most likely will buy a second battery and learn the hard way - any shop that tells you different should not be working on your car!
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      05-07-2013, 06:45 PM   #4
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Using a non oem battery may require some coding to work (AGM non AGM etc), Registration is not required but recommended.
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      05-07-2013, 06:46 PM   #5
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if you buy a battery with the exact same specs as the original battery then you just have to reset the battery registration. if it has different specs then it needs to be coded with those specs.
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      05-07-2013, 06:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 46m3csl View Post
buy a battery from walmart and use it.
This.

You can register it yourself provided you have a laptop and the proper cable.
http://**************.com/bmwlogger
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      05-07-2013, 11:07 PM   #7
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What happens if you don't register it?
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      05-08-2013, 01:09 AM   #8
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What happens if you don't register it?

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      05-08-2013, 01:28 AM   #9
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I changed my battery in winter 2011 because it died. Changed it to the same specs but not OEM. No coding or registering whatsoever. Had not a single problem with it.
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      05-08-2013, 01:35 AM   #10
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You can use a BT cable to register a battery if the specs are the same as one you are replacing - but if the new battery is of different specs than the original, you will also need to code the new battery specs in - for that you need the special coding cable & INPA software

Not registering may lead to electrical 'gremlins' thru out the car with the new battery. The IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) is built in to the Positive battery cable, basically it's a 'smart' sensor that learns ongoing battery condition thru out it's life & directs charging rates accordingly.

If you do not register the new battery it still thinks it's working with the old battery and charging according to the conditions it has learned. So registering is like resetting any of the condition based sensors.

Some people are adament about cheaping out on a $50k car and disregarding the register step and using batteries of different specs. May cause problems, may not - your choice

Personally, if people can't afford to maintain a car in the proper way due to cost - then the car is too expensive for them to own to begin with - buy a friggen Kia
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      05-08-2013, 04:23 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
You can use a BT cable to register a battery if the specs are the same as one you are replacing - but if the new battery is of different specs than the original, you will also need to code the new battery specs in - for that you need the special coding cable & INPA software
)
Nice clarification, because when I glanced at the software, I didn't really see any way to put the specs in...

I keep going back to WHAT ARE YOU SAVING by not registering the battery?

I went to the dealer, and paid $280 to have them install an OEM. Yes, $280 is outrageous, I got a mid-level Die Hard for my Nissan for $89. It failed in under 3 yrs. which is indicative of quality nowadays. I paid I think $55 for a new top of the line Die Hard, which I felt was reasonable because it was an upgrade.

A BMW OEM costs around $200 for the part. Say you get it discount for $160. Or you get another battery for $160. You put it in without registering it. You save $120 over what I paid to the dealership.

You know for a fact that your vehicle is not aware that you have a new battery, and continues to charge the new battery as if it were 6+ y.o., to a lower capacity. You also know you saved $120. Does that sound sensible?
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      05-08-2013, 07:15 AM   #12
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I got the OEM battery on my dad's e90 and had a local member code it for free for me. It took 2 min... Find someone local that can do it for you.
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      05-08-2013, 11:43 AM   #13
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While I ended up having my battery registered because I was at the dealer, I still don't buy that its necessary. A system that reads load and charges a battery accordingly can't tell that a new battery is holding a charge? Makes no sense. If it can't tell you have something new, how did it tell you had something aging?
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      05-08-2013, 11:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Popsrcr View Post
While I ended up having my battery registered because I was at the dealer, I still don't buy that its necessary. A system that reads load and charges a battery accordingly can't tell that a new battery is holding a charge? Makes no sense. If it can't tell you have something new, how did it tell you had something aging?
What if the charging system has an algorithm based on time, and makes adjustments as such, rather than to actually load test the battery on actual values?

What makes the least sense, is paying for something you wholeheartedly believes, makes no sense. You should go back to the dealership and tell them to give you your $280 back. Then just go to Wal Mart and get one of those everstart maxx batteries and save the $120.
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      05-08-2013, 12:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Popsrcr View Post
While I ended up having my battery registered because I was at the dealer, I still don't buy that its necessary. A system that reads load and charges a battery accordingly can't tell that a new battery is holding a charge? Makes no sense. If it can't tell you have something new, how did it tell you had something aging?
If you go with that school of thought - then the Oil Change message should reset itself after you have changed the oil - after all, you drained out the old & put in new - it should know that right?

For what it's worth, here is description from Service Manual of how IBS functions to maintain the battery. Registering the battery essentially tells the system to 'forget' all the previous data/algorithms and start anew:

Quote:
Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS)

>> The IBS microprocessor monitors and measures battery conditions such as:

Terminal voltage via measurement from B+ to Ground
Charge/discharge current via integrated shunt resistor
Temperature of battery acid via integrated temperature sensor

>> IBS Evaluation function

IBS electronics continuously measure the following values under all vehicle operating conditions:

Voltage (6V to 16.5V)
Starting current (0A to 1000A)
Charging current (20A to 200A)
Temperature (-40 Deg C to 105 Deg C or -40 Deg F to 221 Deg F)
Parasitic draw or closed circuit current (0A to 10A)

When the vehicle is stationary, the IBS is programmed to wake up every 14 seconds and makes battery condition measurements within approx. 50 ms in order to save power. The measured values, communicated to the engine control module (ECM) via binary serial data (BSD) interface, are used to calculate the following:

State of charge (SoC) shows the current charge of the battery. SoC is used during key OFF periods to insure that the battery maintains a sufficient charge to start the engine at least one more time.
State of health (SoH) tracks the history of the battery in the vehicle. Charge/discharge cycles and times are monitored. SoH helps the ECM determine correct battery charging rates and anticipated battery life. Internal resistance of the battery is calculated by IBS from current and voltage drop during engine start. These values are used by the ECM to calculate the SoH of the battery.

Software contained in the IBS microprocessor utilizes the measured values to calculate battery SoC during vehicle sleep mode and compares this information with that received from the ECM pertaining to the battery SoC/SoH during the period between engine OFF and the deactivation of the DME main relay.

Battery data is stored every 2 hours over a 6 hour time frame, providing three snapshots of battery SoC information. The stored information/snap shot data is overwritten every 6 hours. Whenever the ignition is activated, IBS updates the ECM with the current closed circuit histogram/battery status information. The ECM evaluates the new data and, if parasitic draw (closed-circuit current draw) is identified, a fault is stored.
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      05-08-2013, 12:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Popsrcr View Post
While I ended up having my battery registered because I was at the dealer, I still don't buy that its necessary. A system that reads load and charges a battery accordingly can't tell that a new battery is holding a charge? Makes no sense. If it can't tell you have something new, how did it tell you had something aging?
OK... Let's go with your idea here. Let's say you decide to put a battery charger on it or get a jump and it assumes you now have a new battery... you'd end up with a dead car next time around because it didn't do its job to conserve so you can appropriately make it to get a new battery.

I've ran a battery to the bare minimum to test this out... IBS does a good job.
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      05-09-2013, 12:57 AM   #17
46m3csl
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Thanks for the info guys, yeah basically if you don't register battery it wont charge properly and put a heavy load on your alternator and in return may shorten the life of the battery and alternator. I can get the OEM battery from BMW for about $160 and then think about registering it myself with the INPA software. What cable are you guys using?? Also where can I get the INPA Software or is their another one I could use, the other one was called BMWLOGGER something I believe

Last edited by 46m3csl; 05-09-2013 at 01:07 AM.
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      05-09-2013, 07:31 AM   #18
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A BMW dealer replacement battery is nothing special (and is not the same as the German factory battery), as long as you shop for a high quality replacement. I recommend batteries by Deka/East Penn (which are sold under a large variety of store brands). They have a line of European "OE Exact Fit" batteries which include flooded and AGM options.

Registration is necessary, period. Problems may not be immediately apparent, but a fair bit of engineering and software is involved in the charging and electrical system, why hinder its operation?
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      05-09-2013, 10:21 AM   #19
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You hear all kinds of stuff around here honestly. Bottom line is if you get Duralast gold with 5yr warrenty and it meets the CCA as orginal your fine. Even if it breaks in 2 years you go to autozone and get brand new one.

Then you got the registration fanatics, Yes technically you should register it because it charges the battery differently as it ages.
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      05-09-2013, 10:26 AM   #20
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Seriously its a battery. Pay the money at the dealer or a good indy once every 5-10 years for OEM that is properly registered. Your pinching pennies on something you'll have to do once MAYBE twice during the cars life.
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      05-09-2013, 11:43 AM   #21
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It isn't rocket science. When the vehicle does not know you've replaced the battery, it charges it more aggressively than it should be. That's it. What is astounding is for folks to say, nah, I don't see how it could be doing that, or I don't see why it would do that.

We make a lot of decisions in life, some correctly, some wrongly. Registering a battery doesn't really rank that highly in the big picture, so if you don't want to do it, don't!
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      05-09-2013, 01:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smooth1 View Post
OK... Let's go with your idea here. Let's say you decide to put a battery charger on it or get a jump and it assumes you now have a new battery... you'd end up with a dead car next time around because it didn't do its job to conserve so you can appropriately make it to get a new battery.

I've ran a battery to the bare minimum to test this out... IBS does a good job.
I too did this....just to see if I could charge some life into the old battery.....nope!....IBS did all it could despite what I tried to do to it!.....

old battery got so low, that when my buddy put a tester on it and tried to load test it....it took that "one more start" right out of the battery and I had to jump start it!....I caved and got a new battery with the same specs as the old one, but not from BMW. then I used the bimmer software to register the new battery.

so, imho, best of both worlds...cable for the software cost me 13.00.
battery was under 150.00.

JP
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