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      02-10-2013, 01:27 PM   #1
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2008 335xi battery life??

I have a fully loaded, navi, comfort access, all the options bmw 335xi 2008 coupe, the clock has 62,000 miles.

The screen lights up with "battery discharge", or picture of battery on the dash if the doors are open too long or if the car is off and just the radio is on.

I have never replaced the cell, and want to know how long these batteries last? Where to buy from and how much they cost, and how hard is it to install?

Any tips or advice is much appreciated
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      02-10-2013, 03:20 PM   #2
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Your battery should last about 5-6 years normally. There really is no difference between batteries installed in our cars except one being lead acid and the other being AGM.

You can determine which you have by color and if there is an eye present. White batteries with an eye are lead acid. The eye is similar to that found on a level. Its a status indicator of your batteries health. Green= good, black=needs charge, yellow= bad.

Replacement/coding:

Your battery needs to be coded, despite what everyone may tell you. White batteries typically are said to not need coding, however the system may overcharge your replacement. BMW engineers developed a variable charging system that placed less stress on the alternator resulting in increased MPG. The system charges older batteries more overtime to hedge the loss of efficiency.

Your white battery can be replaced with any similar battery and it will work but make sure you code it at your nearest convenience. Look at the paper on top it will say, 90AH-80AH. Replace the battery with an identical AH rating.
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      02-10-2013, 05:54 PM   #3
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Before you get a new battery, try using a trickle charger on it for a day or two. Mine did what yours is doing when it would get cold out. After using the charger, it is fine, 2 yrs later. Recently I got a CTEK 3300, it is awesome. Use it on all my cars. Had been using an old bulky one set on 2 amp, but the CTEK has several charge modes and one for gel. Anyway charging system on these cars does not get the battery up to full charge when cold I think, and then it gets in a software loop of some sort and never catches up. You top it up every so often with the charger and it will be fine.

Unless it is already dead but then you ought to use a charger on a new battery too.
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      02-10-2013, 10:29 PM   #4
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Just got my 08 335xi changed last week. It was starting slow and checked out bad. $352 at the BMW garage installed and registered.
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      02-11-2013, 12:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinb306 View Post
Just got my 08 335xi changed last week. It was starting slow and checked out bad. $352 at the BMW garage installed and registered.
Thats expensive, the typical DIY'er can replace his battery sub $150.
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      02-11-2013, 04:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xi Kevo View Post
Thats expensive, the typical DIY'er can replace his battery sub $150.
probably unregistered.
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      02-11-2013, 05:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wdeerfield View Post
probably unregistered.
Code it yourself, free!
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      02-13-2013, 12:02 AM   #8
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Lat week my 2009 335i xdrive coupe battery died, BMW coded it and replaced it under warranty. I only have 30,000 miles so it seemed to die rather quickly.
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      03-15-2013, 05:18 PM   #9
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2008 335xi - build date 7/2007 @ 60k miles - still factory battery
90AH - 720 cca white battery in the trunk with the eye.

* Driven at freeway speeds for 25 miles each way (50 round trip) for 6 days a week.
* Parked outside in the North East cold winters and warm summers

- Faz
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      03-15-2013, 05:42 PM   #10
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Go to ur local auto store and have then run a Load Test on your battery. They do it for free so you can maybe buy a battery from them. This will determine if you need a replacement or not.
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      03-20-2013, 10:13 AM   #11
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Replacing my 07/07 with 50k with original battery proactively today. Looks like the battery itself is ~$180. Trying to swing a deal w the stealer given they are already replacing the battery cable with the recall.
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      10-13-2017, 02:36 PM   #12
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Old thread bump.

I have the same symptoms as op. Tried a trickle charge. Symptoms came back.

How do i make sure i need a battery and not an alternator?
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      11-05-2017, 08:28 AM   #13
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check the voltage across the battery with the engine running. If it is 14.5 volts then the alternator is fine

Check the battery after it sits over night without being on the trickle charger, if it is less than 11.9 it will have a very hard time starting the car

If you don't have a voltmeter, go get one at harbor frieght for $10
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      11-06-2017, 04:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredcase View Post
Old thread bump.

I have the same symptoms as op. Tried a trickle charge. Symptoms came back.

How do i make sure i need a battery and not an alternator?
If you truly want to test the alternator, you take it out and have it bench tested.

Voltage test really only reveals that the regulator is doing it's job. Doesn't verify that the alternator can supply the current demanded when loaded.

You can also have the battery load tested. However this test should be done after attempting to charge. If you load test a discharged battery, it will come up with poor results obviously.
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