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Passenger Side Motor Mount Replacement DIY (n52)
Published by MikeR1994
02-16-2013
Passenger Side Motor Mount Replacement DIY (n52)

What's up guys? While I was installing my headers I noticed that the bolt that connects my passenger side engine mount to the engine support had separated from the rubber in the mount. Couldn't find a DIY so I decided I'd try to write one up myself. This is the first time I've given this a go so bear with me. Also I'm sure the same procedure can be followed for an n54/5, but I have an n52 so keep that in mind. Sorry about the pictures not being all that great, I was doing this by myself.

Tools needed:
-A jack, stands, and wheel chocks
-8mm socket
-10mm socket
-15mm shallow socket
-16mm shallow socket
-A short 3/8" drive extension
-Craftsman universal socket set from Sears- There are some e torx bolts that are far bigger than an E16, and if you don't have the correct size you're not gonna find it locally. This 9 piece set is around $12 and it grips e torx heads very tightly, so don't worry about rounding anything.

You should replace a couple of the mounting bolts and the top nut as they are aluminum and are a one time use thing, since they are supposed to be torqued past their elastic torque in order to get them to hold onto the magnesium block.
All the parts you'll need:
Passenger side motor mount: 22116760330
Aluminum bolts- comes as a full set of four: 22110392551
Flange nut: 07119904670
I got everything from ECS Tuning.

**I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING THAT HAPPENS AS A RESULT OF YOU TRYING THIS DIY** If you don't think you can do it, don't try.**

Alrighty, lets get started.

-Start by jacking the car up and getting it on stands.

-Get under the car with your 8mm socket and remove the bolts holding your splash guard in place.

-Once the splash guard is out of the way, go back up top and remove the two 10mm bolts holding the coolant expansion tank in place, pull it towards the engine, then sit it out of the way up by the front of the engine.

-Next, using a 15mm (or 16mm. the new nut I got was a 16mm but the one that was on my car was a 15mm) shallow socket, remove the flange nut from the engine mount.


-Once the flange nut has been removed you can now support the engine with your floor jack by lifting it by the oil pan enough to bring the engine support off of the mount.


-With the engine now resting on the jack, it's time to get down to business. Start by removing the top bolt that is closest to the front of the car on the engine support. This is only one of four, but it is easily removed from above the car so I'd recommend doing it first. I'm not sure what size e torx it is, but the 14mm Craftsman universal socket fits nice and tightly on it.


-Next, get under the car and remove the remaining three bolts on the other corners of the engine support. One of them is inside a tunnel like hole going through the support. You'll need a 3/8 drive extension to get to that one. If you get frustrated with that bolt take a break and come back to it, because it's not all that easy to get out IMHO.


-At this point the only thing left to do is remove the two external star bolts on the bottom of the mount that connect it to the chassis. The Craftsman 9mm universal works best for these, however I used the 10mm on one of them because I needed to come in at a slight angle on the bolt.


-At this point the mount and support can be pulled out. From here on out it's all common sense. To install the new one, simply get the mount into position making sure that you have the alignment pin in the proper hole, then wiggle the engine support up into place and over the bolt on the mount. Install the new aluminum e torx bolts on the engine support to attach it to the engine, reinstall the bolts that hold the mount in place, lower the jack out from under the engine, tighten new aluminum flange nut with a 16mm shallow socket, put expansion tank back into place, reinstall the splash guard and get that baby back on the road!

I have no clue what any of the torque specs are so do your best to match the breaking torque of everything. I'm going to talk to a tech hopefully tomorrow so I can get that info for you guys and update the thread with it, but I can tell you everything is pretty low torque.

I hope this helps some of you. Sorry if the length of this DIY makes the job seem hard. I finished it in under an hour but I had pulled my broken mount out a couple times this week to check up on it.
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  #1  
By B7Lee on 05-22-2013, 11:48 AM
Great writeup Mike. My mechanic told me that I have two passenger motor mount bolts that have been sheared off. I think I can see one is missing by just looking right behind the passenger wheel.

He says he has to remove the axle nut in order to gain access to replace all four motor mount bolts. Is this true? He quoted me at about 6 hours of labor to do this job. What do you think?

I am all four having him do it if it takes 6 hours. But if you think it is relatively easy (with the right tools), I would rather do it myself than pay 600+ dollars.
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  #2  
By Ferg on 01-03-2014, 01:48 PM
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Did you notice a vibration in the cabin at idle with this mount being bad?
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  #3  
By MikeR1994 on 01-22-2014, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferg
Did you notice a vibration in the cabin at idle with this mount being bad?
Yes but it was only noticeable upon startup. An abnormally harsh shake right when it fires is what tipped me off. I had catless headers running a pretty aggressive exhaust setup at the time so that in itself caused constant vibration from the resonant bass my exhaust was creating.
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  #4  
By David0ff on 01-24-2014, 12:31 PM
what headers are those?
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  #5  
By Ferg on 02-04-2014, 04:00 PM
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Did you replace the driver's side mount? I looked at it and it seems the axle is in the way.
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  #6  
By MikeR1994 on 02-04-2014, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferg
Did you replace the driver's side mount? I looked at it and it seems the axle is in the way.
I have done it and it's not much more difficult however on an xi it is a bit more of an ordeal. You may have to remove the axle if I remember right.
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  #7  
By MikeR1994 on 02-04-2014, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David0ff
what headers are those?
They're MMW headers!
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  #8  
By framebuilder on 02-21-2014, 11:22 AM
Hey guys,
Thanks to MikeR1994 for the great write up! Does anyone know the torque spec for the four bolts that connect the engine mount to the block? I'm so nervous with those aluminum bolts...don't want to have them vibrate loose but also don't want them to stretch too far and shear.

I found http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802982 and the poster listed a line item:

Engine Mount to Engine Bracket M10 10.9: 56 / 41
E92 M10: 38 / 28

I was hoping someone had access to a Bentley manual to verify the E92 is 28 ft-lbs??

Thanks in advance.
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  #9  
By Ferg on 02-25-2014, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by framebuilder View Post
Hey guys,
Thanks to MikeR1994 for the great write up! Does anyone know the torque spec for the four bolts that connect the engine mount to the block? I'm so nervous with those aluminum bolts...don't want to have them vibrate loose but also don't want them to stretch too far and shear.

I found http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802982 and the poster listed a line item:

Engine Mount to Engine Bracket M10 10.9: 56 / 41
E92 M10: 38 / 28

I was hoping someone had access to a Bentley manual to verify the E92 is 28 ft-lbs??

Thanks in advance.
Bentley manual does not talk about motor mounts.
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