[Ravina]

So I'm driving my car and out of the blue the acceleration cuts off and the red overheat warning comes on. I let the car cool down and shortly after driving again same thing happens. A few other key items to note are that it is winter and while the car shows overheating, the temp gauge stays normal. However the car has no heat and only blows out cold vents. I don't get it. Also the fan under the hood is on crazy high speed and very loud, it does not let up. I checked my coolant level and seemed low, so I added some. It did not help.

I have read many posts and I hear water pump repetitively. I have not heard that anyone has all the symptoms my car has.

How do you explain no heat but overheating at the same time?

Please share your thoughts.

Thx.

[iBoost]

Why not just take it in to a local shop? Or have autozone scan the codes it's throwing, it should give you a good idea of what needs to be replaced.

[07lilredwagon]

You are most likely low on coolant, or losing coolant somewhere...When the coolant level gets lower than the heater hoses...you get no heat...but because the fluid is low the engine itself does not have enough coolant in it, or the radiator, to adequately cool the car.

There is another possibility...the water pump is not pumping water through the system...limiting your heat...and overheating the engine....this is less likely, but possible.

Are there any wet spots under the hood...especially down by the belly pan.....any steam coming from the exhaust?......

I would drive it only when you have to...and even then you will eventually cause damage to the head gasket, head, ect from overheating them....

Remotely...it could also be a faulty temp sender.....but since the car is really overheating...I doubt its that....

Here is an old school trick....when the car gets hot...shut everything off and open the hood...any steam or smoke coming from anywhere?....the radiator hoses should be hot, yes, but not overly scalding...You can check your overflow/coolant tank too..if its really hot and sending up steam...there is a problem.

I have heard that when cool...when cool, mind you.... you can take the coolant reservoir cap off, start the car and watch for water flow or movement when the thermostat opens....the level should go down when the thermostat allows coolant into the engine and radiator passages.

When you said the coolant level seemed low...how low?..is that dipstick completely bottomed out and sitting dry? Does it float in coolant, but its just not full?

Also, Im thinking that if the coolant got low enough (again this should not happen..its going somewhere......but where?...water pump? exhaust pipe?) you could have air introduced into the system....best to follow the DIY on this forum and bleed the system too...

good luck with it....let us know what you find...

JP

[bob.g]

it's the water pump..check the code via yer stalk to be sure, but ive seen the heater cutting out too at the same time just like yours did.

if yer out of warranty buy the thermostat and water pump online, some dealers charge a fortune for it. if yer in TO i think the cheapest dealer is maranello for about 550$ installed, which is a good deal.

[DetectiveLoki]

It's your water pump. Don't drive it if it overheats as it may damage your engine. Costs me $1100 at the dealer.

[WNF_335i]

+1 water pump

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by Ravina

I have read many posts and I hear water pump repetitively. I have not heard that anyone has all the symptoms my car has.

How do you explain no heat but overheating at the same time?

Please share your thoughts.

Thx.

There's nothing inconsistent the water pump diagnosis vs. symptoms at all.

The "temperature" gauge is oil temperature, not water temperature so you're not going to see it spike when the pump fails. The red light is your only warning.

You have no heat because the water pump isn't working to circulate the coolant to the heater from the engine block.

Your under hood fan is roaring because the engine is overheating, but the broken water pump isn't circulating coolant to the radiator.

Stop trying to drive it.

[VTECaddict]

Originally Posted by Surly73

There's nothing inconsistent the water pump diagnosis vs. symptoms at all.

The "temperature" gauge is oil temperature, not water temperature so you're not going to see it spike when the pump fails. The red light is your only warning.

You have no heat because the water pump isn't working to circulate the coolant to the heater from the engine block.

Your under hood fan is roaring because the engine is overheating, but the broken water pump isn't circulating coolant to the radiator.

Stop trying to drive it.

[pruettfan]

I agree with those who state this is a waterpump failure. How many miles are on the car?

[Ravina]

Thanks everyone for the very thorough feedback - I will have it towed to Bimmersport for repair. So, is it correct that Marenello will charge $550 for these repairs?

[Rmk392]

def your water pump ..but expect around a $1000. the electric water pumps for our cars aren't cheap

[pratan158]

Water pump and thermostat for sure. Just happen to me in December lol

[abhishriv]

waterpump!!

[bob.g]

Originally Posted by Ravina

Thanks everyone for the very thorough feedback - I will have it towed to Bimmersport for repair. So, is it correct that Marenello will charge $550 for these repairs?

http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133632

[ragingclue]

water pump and t-stat

Very common in these cars. Prepare Uranus.

[Diablo335]

DIY for this...?

It was easy in the e36...

[GoRomeo]

and another bites the dust... I shouldnt make fun of it.. I could be next! noooo

[pratan158]

Originally Posted by Ravina

Thanks everyone for the very thorough feedback - I will have it towed to Bimmersport for repair. So, is it correct that Marenello will charge $550 for these repairs?

I think the part is already around $300-400 is idk will $550 do it or not