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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Window Trim Swap/Replacement DIY
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Window Trim Swap/Replacement DIY
Published by bavarian19
11-23-2005 |
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#1
By
bavarian19
on
11-24-2005, 10:34 AM
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Here is a pic to help describe what Im talking about... sorry about the cheesy ad ons...
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#3
By
MonacoBimm
on
10-04-2006, 12:34 AM
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The black trim, had glued parts in some areas of the trim. I have identified some of these parts, so if youre looking to put in a black 325 trim, non chrome, you will have to add some glue to some clips which are attached there, the glue will be milded in to the rubber attaching the trim. Here in yellow are some of the one I identified.
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#5
By
bavarian19
on
12-17-2006, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
It looks pretty bad if its not all chrome. When I did the swap, I needed the lower window trim, so I placed the black gutters in place while I waited. Didnt look all that good... |
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#8
By
Chesmu
on
12-17-2006, 02:56 PM
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realoem website: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/
crown autoparts: https://secure.webmakerx.net/Default....crownauto.com |
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#10
By
850CSi
on
12-28-2006, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Ouch... nearly $200 for ea. side! Is there another solution? Maybe chroming the trim itself? Think this could work?: http://www.misterart.com/g341/Krylon...C&WT.mc_id=341 or this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...1&s=automotive I guess it wouldn't be that great a risk to try it; if I dont like the result I can always paint the trim black again. The window sill trim could probably be taken care of with chrome tape strips, like some people have been doing to their front grilles, but I think paint would be better. |
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Last edited by 850CSi; 12-28-2006 at 03:13 AM.
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#13
By
cbad335
on
02-21-2008, 01:24 AM
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Out w/ the chrome, in w/ the black
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#14
By
2007_E93
on
03-02-2008, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
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#15
By
NoSole
on
07-07-2008, 03:52 PM
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Alright, so this last weekend I decided to tackle this mod with my buddy and swap out my chrome for his black trim. Thot I'd share a few things I learned.
Extra hands: This project would have been a bitch if there weren't two of us. Most of it can be a one-man operation, but there are a few times when the extra set of hands made it a lot easier, one of which is holding the mirrors. If you don't have an extra set of hands, I reccommend disconnecting the mirror wiring to give easier access. Once you unscrew the 3 torx screws, you'll see the plug. Passenger Side: One thing the OP didn't mention is that the passenger side door panel is harder to pull back because of the handle, which you don't find on the driver's side. To disconnect the handle you have to remove a single T20 torx screw. To gain access to that screw you have to do two things first. 1.) Pop out the horizontal accent piece (mine was brushed aluminum, yours may be wood), which is held in with clips. Start at the front of the door, and pry back the end of the piece. If you have wood accents, be very careful to apply even pressure so you don't break it by accident. Work your way to the rear of the door. ![]() 2.) Pop off the vinyl covered handle piece. It's easiest to just start at the bottom. This won't break as easily as the accent piece, so you can safely pull harder. ![]() 3.) Once off, you'll see the screw at the top of the handle. With the screw removed, you'll be able pull the door panel back enough to access the mirror screws. Chrome: It's very easy to remove the lower chrome pieces without warping or bending them, but not the rubber channels underneath. 1.) To get just the chrome strips out without messing them up, open your door and move to the back. DO NOT pry up as the OP says (that only works for the black 325/328 trim pieces)! Prying up is what damages the chrome. All you have to do is pull straight back with a long, slow, even pressure and the chrome piece will slide right out. Just be careful with the black plastic on the end... if you pull to hard in the wrong place, you can snap it off. If you do, don't worry. It's an easy fix with a little super glue. I suggest using a small flathead screw driver that fits in the under side of the plastic piece at its strongest point. This will help you pull the chrome strip out a couple inches... far enough to then just use your hands. 2.) Once the chrome is off, you should be left with the rubber channel seal underneath. You have to pull this part out too, but unfortunately I was not able to pull this out without bending it. Even after 4 tries (each window) being increasingly careful each time, I couldn't figure out how to get out without bending it. The problem is that there is a metal strip inside the rubber that warps and makes it very difficult re-place into the window channel as it originally sat. Result? I'm splitting the cost of buying new OEM parts with my buddy to solve this. Still worth it if you ask me. Black Trim: The black trim is all one piece. Unlike, the trim from the 330/335, which consists of 2 parts (the chrome piece and rubber window channel seal), the black trim from the 325/328 is all one piece. For removal, follow the OP's directions. Reinstallation is also super easy. |
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Last edited by NoSole; 07-07-2008 at 04:28 PM.
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#17
By
zoltan_tms
on
05-14-2009, 09:10 AM
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I have the shadowline trims on my car,unfortunately they were destroyed at the carwasher, because they used a corrosive active foam, and they do mot shine any more.
I pulled out one trim from the rear door,with the intention to paint them in glossy black.After this I tried to put it back to see how dificult it is,but with no sucess.I also used some lubrification,applied a lot o force pushing it down to the rubber sealant but it did not worked.My question is if I need also to pull out that rubber sealant that holds the trim or not. |
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#19
By
kurtdaniel
on
10-01-2009, 07:49 AM
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its very well done..i love the finished product..now trim up my old jeep parts,,tnx to this thread..
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Last edited by kurtdaniel; 10-05-2009 at 10:18 PM.
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