[Snyperx]

I just can't catch a break lately. So many issues with my car it seems. So I went to go leave for work on Thursday and I get a bulb warning (ccid-117). I do the normal troubleshooting and all bulbs are good. I decide to start looking into the harness. Low and be hold I find 4 broken wires in the section of the wiring harness that goes from the trunk lid to the inside of the car. All the wires are inside the rubber protector.

Does anyone have an idea on how to fix this? I really need to cut the rubber boot off in order to get to the wires comfortably, but not sure how to weather proof after I do that. Hoping to hear from someone that has fixed wire issues before. Thanks.

[///M3NACE]

Solder them properly. Seal them back properly. If you think your not capable don't do it.

[Snyperx]

Originally Posted by ihsanshaik

Solder them properly. Seal them back properly. If you think your not capable don't do it.

Any idea on what a dealer might charge to fix this? I could probably do it, but just need some guidance.

[Surly73]

This has been happening on BMW sedans for decades. Solder, heat shrink, and add this to your regular seasonal inspections to catch more before they break.

This started happening to my E39 in 2007.

[Snyperx]

Originally Posted by Surly73

This has been happening on BMW sedans for decades. Solder, heat shrink, and add this to your regular seasonal inspections to catch more before they break.

This started happening to my E39 in 2007.

I spent like 4 hours last night splicing, soldering, and shrinking. Hope it lasts.

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by Snyperx

I spent like 4 hours last night splicing, soldering, and shrinking. Hope it lasts.

It won't. Inspect annually.

Once the insulation has progressed to the point where it's cracking instead of flexing it will keep happening. Furthermore, the "stiff" areas where there's solder and heatshrink will change the way the flex portion flexes and possibly hasten the failure of neighbouring wires.

If you go to the dealer, they won't solder and heatshrink, they'll want to install new harness. New harness is the longest lasting fix, but also pretty expensive compared to 5 minutes of soldering. (Four hours seems pretty high)

[Snyperx]

Originally Posted by Surly73

New harness is the longest lasting fix, but also pretty expensive compared to 5 minutes of soldering. (Four hours seems pretty high)

I did see they make a repair harness specifically for the trunk lid for like $90. I may go with that route the next go around.

And yes 4 hours of splicing, soldering, shrinking (with kids):-)

[GoRomeo]

Interesting. This issue reminds me of my shifter, some wires were cut disabling my sport mode. Aniways, thanks for sharing. I will check my trunk wiring just in case.

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by Snyperx

I did see they make a repair harness specifically for the trunk lid for like $90. I may go with that route the next go around.

That's interesting. There was a trunk section for the E39 too, but I bet that fishing it through the body and the trunk lid to the appropriate connection points isn't a fun job.

(with kids):-)

Say no more

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Interesting. This issue reminds me of my shifter, some wires were cut disabling my sport mode. Aniways, thanks for sharing. I will check my trunk wiring just in case.

Checking these wires should be added to the regular checklist for anyone even moderately handy.

In the worst case you get some kind of annoying "bulb out" warning. The annoyance progresses forward to things like your trunk being unable to latch (insecure) or unable to unlatch. In the worst case, I suspect that you could blow your LCM/FRM or other modules if the wrong wires connect together in the wrong way.

[Snyperx]

For information sake the part numbers are:

05 REPAIR WIRING SET FOR TRUNK LID 1 09/2007 61119133628 $89.65 (Up to date)
05 REPAIR WIRING SET FOR TRUNK LID 1 09/2007 61129186184 $89.65 (From date)

[Mbirdi]

I did a repair job on my car, I've made a video of what I did.

[NBTBRV8]

Originally Posted by Snyperx

For information sake the part numbers are:

05 REPAIR WIRING SET FOR TRUNK LID 1 09/2007 61119133628 $89.65 (Up to date)
05 REPAIR WIRING SET FOR TRUNK LID 1 09/2007 61129186184 $89.65 (From date)

I am just going through this now, but it appears as though the repair loom BMW sell requires you to cut the car's loom completely underneath the parcel shelf and then affix round terminals to the car's loom, then insert these in to a plug. The repair loom has a plug on it and the wires then go in to the boot through the usual route.

I am just going to add a piece in and solder mine.

[wrongmark]

Just having this same problem. Boot won't open and bulb failure warnings on dash along with boot open warning every time I set off from stopped. Managed to get in boot by connecting brown to earth at rubber boot button. Tried to use connectors which worked for a bit but now failed again. My plan is is to buy a 12 core high flex control cable (used for robotics) and use it to replace the section that flexes. Solder and heat shrink at each end.

[wrongmark]

In case anyone else has this problem, I managed to replace the broken/damaged section of the wiring harness with some robotic arm control flex (12 core). The problem is that there are 13 cables feeding the tailgate. So I had to improvise by adding an extra cable stripped from some flex I had laying around. Took about 2 hours in total as I individually heat shrink wrapped each soldered joint and then heat shrink wrapped all the joints together.

Tip for LCI models (without the key override) that I found from someone else on this or another forum (I forget): If the tailgate won't open, it's likely to be one/both of the ground cables snapped. Pop out the rubber button on the tailgate, unplug the connector and connect the brown wire to the metal of the car. Then you can use the remote fob to pop the tailgate.