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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Idle/Power surge/Drive issue (MT6, e90, 2008)



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      02-26-2013, 09:14 PM   #1
Aaroona
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Idle/Power surge/Drive issue (MT6, e90, 2008)

So I have a 318i E90, 2008.
A few weeks ago, the car start violently shaking etc. and sounded/felt like it was running on 3 cylinders.
I drove It home and turned it off. Start back up and it seemed to work okay for it a bit, then it start playing up again. It set of a CEL so I got an OBD reader and checked what code; Misfire of Cyl1.
To see if it was a coil issue, I moved toe coil from Cyl1 to Cyl2, the fault code followed so I replaced the coil.
It ran okay for a couple of days, but then started playing up again. I took it to BMW and they came back and said that 3 fuel injectors needed replacing, a NOX sesnsor and recommended a spark plug change. (They also had replaced all the ignition coils under a product enhancement).
The car wasnít quite right, through idled a little better.

I recently had it checked by another ďSpecialistĒ who reckons itís the VANOS solenoids. (I had to have it checked by him, as the dealer I purchased the car through, second hand, said this was there preferred specialist).
My car has little over 52,000Kmís on the clock, so still very new.
Current situation;
- NOX sensor has been replaced
- Spark plugs have been replaced
- Car idles a little differently [low ish] (I can only explain that it sounds more like a diesel sound, than it used it)
- There is almost like a power surge when accelerating in low rpm/gears. Usually only happens when the car is warm/hot.
- Taking off in first gear or starting to reverse, the car sounds like its hesitating/struggling.
- There is a noise under the bonnet, almost like a quick ticking sound. When you raise the revs and let it fall, the tick disappears till it gets to 2000-1500rpm, then it starts again. Quite often it will just stop when idling for a minute or 2, then start again.

I really donít know what it could be at this pointÖ Fuel injectors make sense, and it sounds like it. My colleague explained to me that my injectors sounded quite noisy. We also hooked up to the OBD port and watched the wideband oxygen sensor and the Air/Fuel ratio which is apparently meant to sit at 1.00 lamda and 14.7% respectively, and mine was reaching 1.7xx lamda and 20% odd respectively, till when I reved, it went back down when I reached around 2,500rpm-3,000rpm, when you noticed it seemed like the engine just decided to kick in.


Any ideas what this could be? Iím really at a loss, and considering Iíve already had to shell out $600 for a NOX sensor, I want to be sure Iím replacing only the parts that need to be replaced.


Here is a couple of videos of what I'm talking about:

Rev drop, doesnt always happen. Conditions: cars warm, slightly tap the throttle at idle, doesnt consistantly happen;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32949409@N06/8516847076/

This video just shows the ticking sound;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32949409@N06/8515772183/


This video the ticking disappears , then reappears shortly after.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32949409@N06/8515772183/

EDIT: Also worth mentioning, the only codes it has thrown are;
- Misfire Cyl1
- Misfire Cyl2
- NOX Sensor, Warming up
- Mass Air Flow sensor, high input
Don't believe there were any others... at least not that i can think of.

Oh, and I have also cleaned my MAF sensor, that issue hasn't come back.

Last edited by Aaroona; 02-28-2013 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Extra details
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      02-27-2013, 10:27 AM   #2
Meeni
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Ticking noise at idle is usually normal for these cars (search for valve lifter noise, you'll find video with the offending noise, it is annoying but generally considered harmless).

I understand you have no codes anymore ? I'd start by cleaning and swapping the Vanos sensors (see DIY section, easy work).

Then use 2 cans of techtron in 2 different fill ups. Dirty injectors are a nightmare with the ethanol fuel we have now. If no improvements after the techtron, you may need new injectors.
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      02-27-2013, 02:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meeni View Post
Ticking noise at idle is usually normal for these cars (search for valve lifter noise, you'll find video with the offending noise, it is annoying but generally considered harmless).

I understand you have no codes anymore ? I'd start by cleaning and swapping the Vanos sensors (see DIY section, easy work).

Then use 2 cans of techtron in 2 different fill ups. Dirty injectors are a nightmare with the ethanol fuel we have now. If no improvements after the techtron, you may need new injectors.
THanks for the suggestion there mate. I will have to take a look at trying to cleaning it.

I was told that using fuel additives was not a good idea? I guess at the end of the day if they're screwed, they'll need to be replaced anyway...


I will take a video as well of the engine sound to see if its the same.. from the last few videos I've seen, the sound I'm having is a bit different.. thoughit could be because the ones I've seen are 6 cyl and I only have a 4.
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      02-27-2013, 02:58 PM   #4
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Fuel additives that promise to do this or that or regrow severed limbs are snake oil (at best).

However, Techtron is effective at cleaning gumout in injectors and deposit inside cylinders. It should be used sparingly as needed, about once every two years or so, before doing an oil change (it is said to imbalance the additive package in oils).
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      02-27-2013, 09:59 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meeni View Post
Fuel additives that promise to do this or that or regrow severed limbs are snake oil (at best).

However, Techtron is effective at cleaning gumout in injectors and deposit inside cylinders. It should be used sparingly as needed, about once every two years or so, before doing an oil change (it is said to imbalance the additive package in oils).

So as it turns out, I am having a really hard time finding some techron. The best I can do is go to Caltex, owned by chevron, and fill up with 95 RON with techron.


Am I likely to run into issues with the seals on my solenoids? i.e. are they likely to be rock solid from not being changed, and if I pull them out, would it be likely to start a leak?
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      03-03-2013, 10:11 PM   #6
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To maybe help a little more, here are some bits of data from my vehicle.... Let me know if theres anything else that may help, can't find any techron unfortunately, so that ones out the window at this point.... VANOS is next, but wondering if theres anything else they may assist in pinpointing it.


4 by AaronTa, on Flickr


3 by AaronTa, on Flickr


2 by AaronTa, on Flickr


1 by AaronTa, on Flickr
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      03-12-2013, 05:04 AM   #7
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Ok, so I have replaced my fuel injectors, still having an issue.
The idle appears to be a little better...but now I'm thinking maybe an air leak. I mean after all, I have replaced spark Plugs, coils, and now the injectors.

Does anyone know an easy way to so an air leak test?
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      03-18-2013, 10:14 PM   #8
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Sorry to hear that you are still throwing money at this and not got a solution yet...

You have two out of range readings for your pre-cat O2 sensors. That will result in messed up injection adaptations from the ECU (in short, the ECU uses the O2 sensors to adjust the amount of fuel, so that "just enough" unburnt fuel is sent in the exhaust to minimize emissions, etc).

A common causes are that the sensors are fried. But it also seems that your sensors are measuring rich condition (multiplicative adaptation is negative), and failing sensors usually measure lean. Since they are quite expensive, and you have already shoveled money at this like crazy, just don't take my word on it, check.

Could also be a clogged catalyst converter. (the most common cause for rich would be leaking injectors, but yours are new, sooo). Another possibility is a bad MAF, you had a code on that.

It is not very probable to be an air leak (would result in sensors measuring lean, not rich).

Last edited by Meeni; 03-18-2013 at 10:56 PM.
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      03-19-2013, 03:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meeni
Sorry to hear that you are still throwing money at this and not got a solution yet...

You have two out of range readings for your pre-cat O2 sensors. That will result in messed up injection adaptations from the ECU (in short, the ECU uses the O2 sensors to adjust the amount of fuel, so that "just enough" unburnt fuel is sent in the exhaust to minimize emissions, etc).

A common causes are that the sensors are fried. But it also seems that your sensors are measuring rich condition (multiplicative adaptation is negative), and failing sensors usually measure lean. Since they are quite expensive, and you have already shoveled money at this like crazy, just don't take my word on it, check.

Could also be a clogged catalyst converter. (the most common cause for rich would be leaking injectors, but yours are new, sooo). Another possibility is a bad MAF, you had a code on that.

It is not very probable to be an air leak (would result in sensors measuring lean, not rich).
Thanks for your reply.

I have actually just sold my vehicle (for a number of reasons). Interesting you should mention the O2 sensors. Do you happen to know what part number or what part of the engine that is part for. Exhaust system maybe?

I'm not sure what vehicle I will be going for at this point. The 2.0 was a little under powered for what I want. I'm thinking I may be looking towards a 323/325/330.


I appreciate your reply though. Hopefully this thread will help someone else out with their issues.
Have to admit though, at least I'm seasoned on how to change coils, spark plugs and fuel injectors haha.


Tip: never open the door when you have a fuel line disconnected.... When you open the door it pressurizes the fuel lines... My girlfriend made me find this out by wanting to sit in the vehicle when I was doing the change.
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