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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > DSC, DTC, and start off assistance inactive after BBK install



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      02-27-2013, 11:37 AM   #1
marcus321
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DSC, DTC, and start off assistance inactive after BBK install

I installed my Bbk this weekend and then bled brakes until no air bubbles came out. When I try to drive the car out of the drive way the I hit the brake and it goes all the way to the floor but it still stops the car just not to its maximum potential. As soon as the pedal hits the floor those error lights come on. Any ideas? I did the install myself. And bled the old fashioned way with someone pumping the brakes. Still air in the system I assume but they won't come out.

Last edited by marcus321; 02-27-2013 at 11:43 AM.
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      02-27-2013, 11:53 AM   #2
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Just found out I have 2 bleeder nipples and I only did the ones on the outside...will that make a huge difference? I have never owned a BBK before. When I bleed do I do both? In which order?
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      02-27-2013, 12:17 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus321 View Post
Just found out I have 2 bleeder nipples and I only did the ones on the outside...will that make a huge difference? I have never owned a BBK before. When I bleed do I do both? In which order?


From StopTech manual:

Note: The calipers and lines will need to fill with fluid, quickly draining the master cylinder reservoir. Keep a close watch on the fluid level when initially bleeding the system. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry, and to draw in air. Doing so may result in the brake system needing to be serviced by a certified brake technician.

Bleed the brake system, using an 11mm box wrench, to loosen the bleed screws. The sequence for bleeding the brakes should be:

1. Right outboard bleed screw
2. Right inboard bleed screw
3. Left outboard bleed screw
4. Left inboard bleed screw

Though a torque wrench is not typically used on bleed screws, as a reference, the torque for bleed screws should be approximately 100-140 lb-INCH.

After initially bleeding the system, gently tap the caliper body with a mallet to dislodge any small air bubbles, then re-bleed the brakes.

After bleeding, apply constant pressure to the brake pedal, and check all connections - including the bleed screws, and both ends of the brake line - for leaks.

Warning: Brake fluid will damage most painted surfaces. Immediately clean spilled brake fluid from any painted surface, including the caliper. Though caliper paint is designed to resist harsh chemicals, prolonged exposure will damage the finish.
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      02-27-2013, 04:00 PM   #4
marcus321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evochuck View Post


From StopTech manual:

Note: The calipers and lines will need to fill with fluid, quickly draining the master cylinder reservoir. Keep a close watch on the fluid level when initially bleeding the system. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry, and to draw in air. Doing so may result in the brake system needing to be serviced by a certified brake technician.

Bleed the brake system, using an 11mm box wrench, to loosen the bleed screws. The sequence for bleeding the brakes should be:

1. Right outboard bleed screw
2. Right inboard bleed screw
3. Left outboard bleed screw
4. Left inboard bleed screw

Though a torque wrench is not typically used on bleed screws, as a reference, the torque for bleed screws should be approximately 100-140 lb-INCH.

After initially bleeding the system, gently tap the caliper body with a mallet to dislodge any small air bubbles, then re-bleed the brakes.

After bleeding, apply constant pressure to the brake pedal, and check all connections - including the bleed screws, and both ends of the brake line - for leaks.

Warning: Brake fluid will damage most painted surfaces. Immediately clean spilled brake fluid from any painted surface, including the caliper. Though caliper paint is designed to resist harsh chemicals, prolonged exposure will damage the finish.
Thanks! That was it. I am still getting a little softness on the brake. No more errors though it brakes amazing!
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      02-28-2013, 12:01 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus321 View Post
Thanks! That was it. I am still getting a little softness on the brake. No more errors though it brakes amazing!
You may need to bleed it again to get all the air bubbles out.
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      02-28-2013, 11:18 PM   #6
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Ya, I will probably drive it around tomorrow and see if that will maybe loosen up some air bubbles and bleed one more time.
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      03-01-2013, 12:30 AM   #7
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Why didn't you invest in a power bleeder before undertaking this task? It looks like an invaluable tool that minimizes the headaches of air bubbles.
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      03-01-2013, 11:17 AM   #8
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Why didn't you invest in a power bleeder before undertaking this task? It looks like an invaluable tool that minimizes the headaches of air bubbles.
Because bleeding before has never been a problem when doing it the old fashion way. I didnt think it would be an issue now. Power bleeder would have not helped me initially anyways when I missed the inside bleeders I got all the air out late last night and it feels 100% now.
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