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      03-11-2013, 06:10 PM   #1
hxs80
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Brakes - DIY/Source Conflicting Info

Hey all,

So 2 weeks ago I received all my parts for a brake pad replacement job and having collected a, what I think, good amount of information, I set out to do it. I ended up buying the Akebono EUR FR & Rear Set from FCPEuro.
For "references" I submit the following;
- Bentley Manual E92
- BavAuto Brake DIY Video
- FCPEuro BRake DIY Video

I'll exclude forum DIYs in general but I will comment as applies.

Here are a few conflicting steps that I'd like someone more knowledgeable than me to clear up. They are not in any type of order.


A -> Clean AND Grease Caliper Pins
FCPEuro: NO
BENTLEY: NO
BAVAUTO: YES

Comment: Seems logical to grease them as they are moving parts. I don't suspect the silicon grease to deteriorate the rubber?

B -> Apply Anti-Squeal to back of inner pad around the Spring Clips
FCPEuro: NO
BENTLEY:NO
BAVAUTO: YES
FORUMS: Most said yes

Comment: Bentley Manual specifically says that anti-squeal will detirioarate the piston's rubber boot.

C -> Compress piston without loosening fluid nipple

FCPEuro: NO
BENTLEY:NO
BAVAUTO: NO
FORUMS: Mixed

Comment: I remember a post that some folks were adamant about this saying that you should. I remember someone stated "the days of pushing
it back without letting fluid out are gone". Makes sense to me, I flushed the system anyways but I'd like to know.

D -> Apply anti-squeal on the back of the outer pads
FCPEuro: NO
BENTLEY:NO
BAVAUTO: YES
FORUMS: Most said yes

Comments: I followed the Bentley which says to put the stuff on the actual caliper where the outer pads meet and the "T" joints of each caliper.


I know some of these steps might be preferences or maybe nuances but I just want to do it right. Well, I already did it a mixed way and would like
to correct any errors before it's too late. I did notice that I hear some clunking noise that I didn't get on the OEM pads so I'm wondering
if it's the aftermarket pads or a step above I went wrong. Either way hopefully this will help others as well.

Thanks.
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      03-11-2013, 07:49 PM   #2
deadmn1337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hxs80 View Post
Hey all,

So 2 weeks ago I received all my parts for a brake pad replacement job and having collected a, what I think, good amount of information, I set out to do it. I ended up buying the Akebono EUR FR & Rear Set from FCPEuro.
For "references" I submit the following;
- Bentley Manual E92
- BavAuto Brake DIY Video
- FCPEuro BRake DIY Video

I'll exclude forum DIYs in general but I will comment as applies.

Here are a few conflicting steps that I'd like someone more knowledgeable than me to clear up. They are not in any type of order.


A -> Clean AND Grease Caliper Pins
FCPEuro: NO
BENTLEY: NO
BAVAUTO: YES

Comment: Seems logical to grease them as they are moving parts. I don't suspect the silicon grease to deteriorate the rubber?

B -> Apply Anti-Squeal to back of inner pad around the Spring Clips
FCPEuro: NO
BENTLEY:NO
BAVAUTO: YES
FORUMS: Most said yes

Comment: Bentley Manual specifically says that anti-squeal will detirioarate the piston's rubber boot.

C -> Compress piston without loosening fluid nipple

FCPEuro: NO
BENTLEY:NO
BAVAUTO: NO
FORUMS: Mixed

Comment: I remember a post that some folks were adamant about this saying that you should. I remember someone stated "the days of pushing
it back without letting fluid out are gone". Makes sense to me, I flushed the system anyways but I'd like to know.

D -> Apply anti-squeal on the back of the outer pads
FCPEuro: NO
BENTLEY:NO
BAVAUTO: YES
FORUMS: Most said yes

Comments: I followed the Bentley which says to put the stuff on the actual caliper where the outer pads meet and the "T" joints of each caliper.


I know some of these steps might be preferences or maybe nuances but I just want to do it right. Well, I already did it a mixed way and would like
to correct any errors before it's too late. I did notice that I hear some clunking noise that I didn't get on the OEM pads so I'm wondering
if it's the aftermarket pads or a step above I went wrong. Either way hopefully this will help others as well.

Thanks.
A. I cleaned the pins that way it is easier for the next brake change, there will be more build up after driving for a while.

B. This is really a preference. I normally put anti-squeal on so i dont have to do it later if i hear noises when not done. Havent seen any damage to piston rubber from it on the forum or my car.

C. This is also a preference. If you are going to flush and bleed the system then it is a lot easier to compress the piston back in with the bleeder open as there is less pressure to fight against. If you dont want to have to bleed the system then dont open the bleeders just make sure the brake fluid cap is off so there is a little less pressure when compressing.

D. See B. anywhere you put it that doesnt have contact will wash away after a few washes and it not going to hurt anything if its there.

Hope this helped. I have done all of my suggestions on my car with no problems for about 40k miles.
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      03-11-2013, 11:03 PM   #3
BillionPa
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A: Clean the pins with brake cleaner, or replace them, the upper pins are cheap. Do not grease. IF you decide you want to grease them anyway, only use a ceramic compound. I did not grease them, I used molybdenum disulphide dry spray lubricant (superior)

B: Instead of anti squeal on the pad, I put copper high temp antisieze (you can also use ceramic) on the piston face itself, that is all that touches the pads, so putting it there means you dont apply too much. I applied ATE Plastilube to the spring clips, but very little.

C: NO! this is not good for the DSC module, you can always put a little more fluid in the res if need be.

D: Yes, I used the copper stuff there, or you can use ceramic. Once again, I applied it to the inside of the caliper, not the pad, so there was not a bunch of extra on the pad facing the wheel.


In regards to the antisieze, I have both LubrMoly LM508 Copper (1000C temp) and Permatex Extreme Ceramix (1600C temp)

Since on the street I dont get close to 1000C, I use the copper stuff because it is cheaper and works just fine, no squeal. I also grease the tips of the antivibration spring where it meets the caliper and carrier.

I also applied Plastilube to the wheel hub before mounting the rotor, put LM508 on the brake holddown screw, and LM508 on the wheel before mounting it, and LM508 on the wheel bolt threads (sparingly in all locations)
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      03-12-2013, 06:17 AM   #4
hxs80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillionPa
A: Clean the pins with brake cleaner, or replace them, the upper pins are cheap. Do not grease. IF you decide you want to grease them anyway, only use a ceramic compound. I did not grease them, I used molybdenum disulphide dry spray lubricant (superior)

B: Instead of anti squeal on the pad, I put copper high temp antisieze (you can also use ceramic) on the piston face itself, that is all that touches the pads, so putting it there means you dont apply too much. I applied ATE Plastilube to the spring clips, but very little.

C: NO! this is not good for the DSC module, you can always put a little more fluid in the res if need be.

D: Yes, I used the copper stuff there, or you can use ceramic. Once again, I applied it to the inside of the caliper, not the pad, so there was not a bunch of extra on the pad facing the wheel.


In regards to the antisieze, I have both LubrMoly LM508 Copper (1000C temp) and Permatex Extreme Ceramix (1600C temp)

Since on the street I dont get close to 1000C, I use the copper stuff because it is cheaper and works just fine, no squeal. I also grease the tips of the antivibration spring where it meets the caliper and carrier.

I also applied Plastilube to the wheel hub before mounting the rotor, put LM508 on the brake holddown screw, and LM508 on the wheel before mounting it, and LM508 on the wheel bolt threads (sparingly in all locations)
Interesting!

I have the LM 508 anti-seize which I used in between the hub and the rotor and I also used it for the small rotor positioning screw. Is this what you mean by brake hold down screw? I didn't know about plastilube but it seems like it has good reviews so I ordered it. The places you suggest to use it seem logical, thanks.

I originally used the lm508 as anti-squeal but I read somewhere that it is not recommended. Seeing how I had somehow introduced a noise to my brakes I assumed it was that so I went back re-cleaned and used regular crc disc quiet. Apparently I was wrong.
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      03-12-2013, 07:27 PM   #5
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I have no odd sounds, and have used LM508 and Plastilube on several cars totaling about... 50000 miles
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      03-12-2013, 07:38 PM   #6
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2006 330i  [2.83]
I recently did my rear brakes/pads and followed FCP auto videos. I removed sliding pins, I greesed them after, I used sandpaper to clean them till you see the metal color look new. I also used sandpaper to clean the touching parts on the brackets where the pads rest (mine had a lot of brake dust and grime).I also added CRC anti squeal noise product on the back and side of pads where it touches bracket. I used sandpaper for the hubs and used anti seize before I installed new rotors. No noise and very smooth braking. Cheers!
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      03-12-2013, 08:40 PM   #7
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You are way over thinking it. Do what makes sense to you. None of those things you list will hurt the car if you do or don't.
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      03-12-2013, 09:21 PM   #8
J-Spec Dan
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my $0.02 based on having Akebono Euro pads and working in the brake industry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hxs80 View Post
Hey all,

So 2 weeks ago I received all my parts for a brake pad replacement job and having collected a, what I think, good amount of information, I set out to do it. I ended up buying the Akebono EUR FR & Rear Set from FCPEuro.
For "references" I submit the following;
- Bentley Manual E92
- BavAuto Brake DIY Video
- FCPEuro BRake DIY Video

I'll exclude forum DIYs in general but I will comment as applies.

Here are a few conflicting steps that I'd like someone more knowledgeable than me to clear up. They are not in any type of order.


A -> Clean AND Grease Caliper Pins
FCPEuro: NO
BENTLEY: NO
BAVAUTO: YES

Comment: Seems logical to grease them as they are moving parts. I don't suspect the silicon grease to deteriorate the rubber?
You don't have to grease. I didn't and my pads don't squeal in the summer or winter. Running this way for almost two years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hxs80 View Post
B -> Apply Anti-Squeal to back of inner pad around the Spring Clips
FCPEuro: NO
BENTLEY:NO
BAVAUTO: YES
FORUMS: Most said yes

Comment: Bentley Manual specifically says that anti-squeal will detirioarate the piston's rubber boot.
It's just another grease. I didn't grease mine but if you want to apply it to help you sleep at night, do it. It's not going to eat at the piston boot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hxs80 View Post
C -> Compress piston without loosening fluid nipple

FCPEuro: NO
BENTLEY:NO
BAVAUTO: NO
FORUMS: Mixed

Comment: I remember a post that some folks were adamant about this saying that you should. I remember someone stated "the days of pushing
it back without letting fluid out are gone". Makes sense to me, I flushed the system anyways but I'd like to know.
Just take the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir, wrap the reservoir with paper towels to prevent spillage when you're returning the pistons back into the caliper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hxs80 View Post
D -> Apply anti-squeal on the back of the outer pads
FCPEuro: NO
BENTLEY:NO
BAVAUTO: YES
FORUMS: Most said yes

Comments: I followed the Bentley which says to put the stuff on the actual caliper where the outer pads meet and the "T" joints of each caliper.
Again, no, I didn't, do it but you can if it'll give you some peace of mind
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Last edited by J-Spec Dan; 03-12-2013 at 09:39 PM.
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      03-13-2013, 05:01 AM   #9
johmei
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Did put some "copperpaste" where pads touch caliper to help with next install but that is about is apart from cleaning everything with brake cleaner. This was last spring and the car still runs smooth with no squeels.

The job is standard, nothing special to this car. Pretty much any guide for any regular car would do.
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      03-24-2013, 09:11 AM   #10
hxs80
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thanks to everyone for their replies. I know I tend to overthink but its better than doing things halfass.
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