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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Update: Just Found Out I have a Bad Alternator.



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      04-27-2013, 01:36 AM   #1
KeepitClassy
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Exclamation Update: Just Found Out I have a Bad Alternator.

After installing HIDs last week, my alternator is no longer working properly. I had it tested at two different shops, and they both pointed towards the alternator. Every morning I have been having a dead battery, after a few days of getting my HIDs put in. I'm not saying that this could be the cause, but it seems like it could be related, since everything was fine prior to installation.

How much do you think a Alternator will cost at the Dealer? I have CPO, do you think it's covered?

And do you think maybe, just maybe, my car needs to be coded so the Alternator can support the extra load from the HIDs?



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      04-27-2013, 05:14 PM   #2
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Plug n play HIDs, not related. Yes CPO covers Alternator. Just a coincidence.
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      04-27-2013, 07:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luv135i View Post
Plug n play HIDs, not related. Yes CPO covers Alternator. Just a coincidence.
Thanks for the reply. I have a appointment at BMW this Monday. How long do you think the job will take? And if it wasn't covered under CPO, how much do you think the repair cost would have been?
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      04-28-2013, 10:53 AM   #4
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I paid around $1,000 -- installed -- for remf'd alternator last month. Overcharging. Yes, both the alternator and the dealer.
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      04-28-2013, 11:32 AM   #5
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$1k sounds about right as I was quoted $950 two years ago when my alternator was replaced under OEM warranty. But the problem turned out to be an intermittent IBS fault, so you might request that the dealer check it out as well.

The way I read it, both alternator and IBS are covered under CPO - but not the battery.

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      04-28-2013, 02:36 PM   #6
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Update: I went to start my car last night after driving home, and it only made a single *CLICK* noise. The engine isn't even cranking anymore, and i can't jump start it anymore either. all I get is the single *CLICK*. Do you think I damaged something for my car to not be able to Jumpstart anymore?
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      04-28-2013, 03:35 PM   #7
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What do you mean you cant jump start it?
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      04-28-2013, 04:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luv135i View Post
What do you mean you cant jump start it?
When I attempt to jump start the car, meaning I connect a portable jumper box to the positive part of the battery to give it juice. When I attempted to jump start the car, it only made a single *CLICK* sound. I'm worried that i may have damaged the electrical system by jump starting the car multiple times this week.

What could be causing the car to refuse a jump start?
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      04-28-2013, 08:55 PM   #9
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Its just that the battery is now very drained!....

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      04-28-2013, 09:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07lilredwagon View Post
Its just that the battery is now very drained!....

JP
^ This. With a dead alternator, driving will just drain the battery until it goes flat. You will need to leave the charger on for at least a few hours (depending on amperage) to give it enough juice to drive the starter.
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      04-28-2013, 10:41 PM   #11
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bad starter.
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      04-29-2013, 12:33 AM   #12
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WARNING!!!! Please read

Never jump start ur bimmer from the actual battery in the trunk of the car!!!! (I'm hoping u didn't but not sure). The correct way to jump start ur bimmer is by using the positive battery post in the engine bay with the red plastic cap. You should also have a metal bolt near the headlamp on the same side which can be used as the negative/ground post. If u were unfortunate to jump start from the trunk, u can easily fry the junction box (JBE) which will set u back a cool $1k RTFM
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      04-29-2013, 03:49 AM   #13
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You may have fried the battery by insisting on driving with a bad alternator.
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      04-29-2013, 08:59 AM   #14
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Try charging the battery for a few hours. Measure voltage before and after. If its not 12-14v after recharge, its dead. Too much discharging to full empty.

If the alternator and battery were fine before the HID install, Id say the HIDs have a short and are draining the battery.
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      04-30-2013, 12:05 PM   #15
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Jump start it with cables under the hood with the other car running and giving it throttle. If your battery is completly dead that might get you started.
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      04-30-2013, 05:38 PM   #16
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From what I read there is a possibility you blew the IBS on the negative terminal if you jumped the battery using a jump box. It does not take kindly to that kind of use.
I would not be telling the dealer about your non BMW HIDs because they can deny you CPO.
The charging system in this car is not your typical old style alternator-voltage regulator and battery. This is a sophisticated over designed system that uses an alternator- voltage regulator- IBS-DME controller. If you blow the IBS the DME typically drives the engine idle to a high state and you should receive a code.
You never mentioned if you are throwing a code or not.
Try charging the battery until it reads 12.6VDC and hope for the best...
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