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      05-13-2013, 04:36 PM   #1
mr.e90
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Brakes Lag

So, I just replaced my brakes, calipers and pads. Ever since i replaced them, I feel like i have to press the brake pedal with more force. The brakes lag a little to how it used to brake. Anybody know why this is happening or reasons that could contribute to this?
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      05-13-2013, 04:51 PM   #2
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Wrong section. If I had to guess, I'd say you had air in the lines.
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      05-13-2013, 04:57 PM   #3
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Wrong section. If I had to guess, I'd say you had air in the lines.
sorry, mods please move to suspension/brakes section.
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      05-13-2013, 05:22 PM   #4
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How many miles on the new brakes? Did you bed in the pads yet?
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      05-13-2013, 06:18 PM   #5
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what brand did you use, if its not oem bmw or damn close it will feel like that.

unless you pushed the piston OUT and unsealed the rubber you shouldnt have air in the lines.... buy oem pads, and rotors.... (you cant resurface them)
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      05-13-2013, 06:23 PM   #6
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Op mentioned he changed the calipers. Really easy to get air in the lines.
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      05-13-2013, 07:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90pilot
Op mentioned he changed the calipers. Really easy to get air in the lines.
ah, i mis-read my fault, yes then there is high chance you got air in the lines.
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      05-13-2013, 07:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.e90
So, I just replaced my brakes, calipers and pads. Ever since i replaced them, I feel like i have to press the brake pedal with more force. The brakes lag a little to how it used to brake. Anybody know why this is happening or reasons that could contribute to this?
I'm sure OP had the right idea of bleeding and replacing the old brake fluid after the brake job. But I think the brake booster might be on its way out. Happened to me on my E60 N52 engine. Replaced all the rotors and pads and flushed/bled out old brake fluid with DOT 4 and a few months later the booster went. Had to replace also vacuum line to booster because oil crept up into the booster damaging the rubber diaphragm in it. Pre-mature wear.
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      05-13-2013, 09:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90pilot View Post
Op mentioned he changed the calipers. Really easy to get air in the lines.
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Originally Posted by bernard54321 View Post
ah, i mis-read my fault, yes then there is high chance you got air in the lines.
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Originally Posted by inline607 View Post
I'm sure OP had the right idea of bleeding and replacing the old brake fluid after the brake job. But I think the brake booster might be on its way out. Happened to me on my E60 N52 engine. Replaced all the rotors and pads and flushed/bled out old brake fluid with DOT 4 and a few months later the booster went. Had to replace also vacuum line to booster because oil crept up into the booster damaging the rubber diaphragm in it. Pre-mature wear.
Actually, i meant to write rotors instead of calipers. I always get those two mixed up.


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How many miles on the new brakes? Did you bed in the pads yet?
I have about 600 miles on new brakes. Yea, I bed in the brakes.

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Originally Posted by bernard54321 View Post
what brand did you use, if its not oem bmw or damn close it will feel like that.

unless you pushed the piston OUT and unsealed the rubber you shouldnt have air in the lines.... buy oem pads, and rotors.... (you cant resurface them)
I bought aftermarket ceramic pads and i bought brembo rotors
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      05-13-2013, 10:48 PM   #10
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Aha! Ceramic pads are the culprit. They're notorious for poor initial friction or "bite."
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      05-13-2013, 11:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bernard54321 View Post
what brand did you use, if its not oem bmw or damn close it will feel like that.

unless you pushed the piston OUT and unsealed the rubber you shouldnt have air in the lines.... buy oem pads, and rotors.... (you cant resurface them)
I just had a SA tell me that I should go ahead and replace my pads now because they were at 4mm but my rotors were still in spec...?

I really appreciated that, and I'm waiting for my new Hawk HPS pads to come in... I hope they work as well as OEM and I *really* hope they don't trash my wheels like OEM!
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      05-14-2013, 01:40 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8N
Quote:
Originally Posted by bernard54321 View Post
what brand did you use, if its not oem bmw or damn close it will feel like that.

unless you pushed the piston OUT and unsealed the rubber you shouldnt have air in the lines.... buy oem pads, and rotors.... (you cant resurface them)
I just had a SA tell me that I should go ahead and replace my pads now because they were at 4mm but my rotors were still in spec...?

I really appreciated that, and I'm waiting for my new Hawk HPS pads to come in... I hope they work as well as OEM and I *really* hope they don't trash my wheels like OEM!
sorry buddy, you drive a bimmer. if you want your brakes to bite hard like oem, use oem. the brake dust is a side effect of the good braking power.

cure cancer to live with a cold? or clear your stuffy nose and die from no brakes.... lol sorry for the touchy analogy my teacher always told me brakes are the one system that by no means should fail or work less then perfect.

so i learned to be strict with my brakes when i replace them i do it right, with oem or matching standards. but i do not know much about the hawk pads ive never tried them or had to inquire about them.
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      05-14-2013, 06:49 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bernard54321 View Post
sorry buddy, you drive a bimmer. if you want your brakes to bite hard like oem, use oem. the brake dust is a side effect of the good braking power.

cure cancer to live with a cold? or clear your stuffy nose and die from no brakes.... lol sorry for the touchy analogy my teacher always told me brakes are the one system that by no means should fail or work less then perfect.

so i learned to be strict with my brakes when i replace them i do it right, with oem or matching standards. but i do not know much about the hawk pads ive never tried them or had to inquire about them.
I dunno either... I just want to try them because I need pads anyway. I only have the rears so far so I haven't got them on the car yet (figured if there are differences in friction it would be wise to replace them all as a set) the rears are marked "FF" which isn't bad theoretically. I don't know what the stock Textars or Ferodos are marked, or how they really stack up... I do know that some people say Akebonos are just as good as stock but others say there's less bite so I figured I would try the Hawks instead.
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      05-15-2013, 02:53 AM   #14
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I'm guessing you went with my recommendation for akebono pads? I love mine besides the fact they don't have as much initial bite as the OEM. But for my needs (not tracking, some spirited driving) akebono's are great. Literally zero dust compared to OEM.

You might also want to look into getting a fluid change at some point. Idk if it has been done yet but I believe you told me you have around 125k on the car? Probably time for a fluid change if you haven't had one yet. ATE Super Blue is what I used (picked up locally from HPA for just as good of a deal as anywhere online).
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