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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > My install, custom sub in well, MB quarts QSD 210



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      06-02-2013, 01:41 PM   #1
monkins
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My install, custom sub in well, MB quarts QSD 210

Hi all, just thought i'd post my install to show how I arranged all the gear in the trunk.

I'm an electrical engineer and have designed and built many industrial cabinets but this is the first time i've installed a full system into my E92 2007.

Trial fitting the sub box


The JL10w0v3 in a 3/4" mdf box coming in at 19litres (0.67 cubic feet), you can get up to 22 litres with a fibreglass box.


Another angle of box


I had to move the inphase amplifier i already had here in the stock amplifier location and put it in another place because i couldn't fit the alpine mrp m200 in the little recess behind the storage well. The alpines sitting on a carpeted piece of wood. (I had to shave off 1/4" off the amplifier and it just fitted in nice)


Heres a full view of the install


I had the EQ setup for just the MB quarts components with no sub so its sounding far to bass heavy i need to tweak, I dont know where to start I have to many settings now lol.

I'm not a fan of how people run the power cables off the battery so ive done it this way. If you look closely you can see a 1 into 2 fuse distribution block at the top right of the photo:


Here is how I flattened the output of the base head unit using white noise and a fft. Top trace is with the treble on minumum, the blue is everything on 0, and the bottom trace is the flattest i could get it after the eq install. But before i had the sub i had to boost the bass to get it sounding better.


Now I can mess about with the crossover points of the sub on the eq, i'm thinking I need some overlap which means i'll have to plug the fronts into the full range output of the eq and the sub just into the low pass.

At the moment I have the sub into the low pass and fronts into the high pass of the amp and its sounding like theres a massive hole between 50-200Hz. I was happy with the sound before teh sub just wanted some punch below 100Hz.

Any help is appreciated.

Chris

JL sub 10w0 v3
Alpine MRP M200 monoblock for sub
Inphase IPA601 2 channel amplifier (new brand, getting some great reviews)
Pheonix gold eq15x equaliser
standard LOC
MB quart QSD 210 components.
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      06-02-2013, 01:45 PM   #2
monkins
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Forgot to mention, I was thinking of building up several of the sub boxes and selling them. I was thinking about 60 + shipping? complete carpeted and sprayed black with a cable pre installed. UK only sorry.. maybe putting them on ebay.
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      06-02-2013, 02:02 PM   #3
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Looking good! I'm in the process of installing my sub in the same fashion. Was originally going to use a 12w0 I had lying around, before realizing it was 8-ohm. Going to purchase a 12w3 4-ohm now instead.

Curious to know if you modified the cover piece at all? Does it rattle / shake from the woofer output? Is there enough clearance so the woofer doesn't hit the board? Does the board block any sound?

I was thinking of making a cut out in the board and using a grill to protect the woofer, but curious to hear what you've done.

Good luck with the rest of your setup!
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      06-02-2013, 02:24 PM   #4
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Monkins, I'd buy 1 if you can make it for an e93 ski hatch
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      06-02-2013, 02:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali-323i View Post
Looking good! I'm in the process of installing my sub in the same fashion. Was originally going to use a 12w0 I had lying around, before realizing it was 8-ohm. Going to purchase a 12w3 4-ohm now instead.

Curious to know if you modified the cover piece at all? Does it rattle / shake from the woofer output? Is there enough clearance so the woofer doesn't hit the board? Does the board block any sound?

I was thinking of making a cut out in the board and using a grill to protect the woofer, but curious to hear what you've done.

Good luck with the rest of your setup!
THeres a rattle coming from under the battery somewhere but you can't here it in the cabin. When making the box I had to take the bottom off and make it 3/4" lower than expexted as the back of the handle touched the plastic surround of the sub. . Ive read a post saying that they did a blind test with the cover on and off and it just could not be recognised the difference. So I dont think the panel had any effect. There must be 1/4" gap between the top of the sub and the panel. No rattles.
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      06-02-2013, 02:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coly View Post
Monkins, I'd buy 1 if you can make it for an e93 ski hatch
They sell the ski hatch ones at derby incar audio and security. They look simple to make. I don't have the measurements
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      06-02-2013, 03:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkins View Post
Forgot to mention, I was thinking of building up several of the sub boxes and selling them. I was thinking about 60 + shipping? complete carpeted and sprayed black with a cable pre installed. UK only sorry.. maybe putting them on ebay.
Do you mind if I ask how much the equiliser set you back?

Have you looked into the option of getting the head unit coded to hi-fi to have flat signals to start with?


Box seems good and on that price they will sell like hot cake but only to normal Joe!

No disrespect, as I have installed all sort of boxes, but in terms of quality, IB setup is at top, followed by corner enclosures.
I always recommend these two setups.

If they are not possible then what you have done or box in box (box in boot) method.

Other than that its a good clean installation.
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      06-02-2013, 04:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makkan00 View Post
Do you mind if I ask how much the equiliser set you back?

Have you looked into the option of getting the head unit coded to hi-fi to have flat signals to start with?


Box seems good and on that price they will sell like hot cake but only to normal Joe!

No disrespect, as I have installed all sort of boxes, but in terms of quality, IB setup is at top, followed by corner enclosures.
I always recommend these two setups.

If they are not possible then what you have done or box in box (box in boot) method.

Other than that its a good clean installation.
Hi, yes I was considering getting coded to hifi. The cheap inpa k+dcan cable I bought didnt work, and not sure how much costs to get coded/ lost my courage.

If I got it coded then id have to get amp/eq that supports the differential signals, and they cost much more than standard amps. I got my inphase for 90, alpine 20 ebay, eq for 120. An ms-8 is double that, + id still need a sub amp.

I chose to do the audio a cheaper route. Arguably lower sound quality. But there's no complete crap in the system (except the stock underseats) its very tweakable. I can delay subs, change phase angles, 15 bands on each channel to tweak. Also overlap cross points.

Or have I missed a component that is cheaper than I thought, that could do what I wanted and use with a balanced differential signal?

Also how are most people doing an ib on the e92, ski hatch? Or cutting the deck up? Id like an ib as I know it's merits as ive got some sennehisers that are open cans and in my logic it must be the same effect of getting rid of the unwanted rearwards wave as not to colour the forwards one. Also going through 4" of seat aint helping clarity. If I did ib I think id want to create a custom deck mount so I can still fold down the seats and is stealth.

Cheers,

Chris
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      06-02-2013, 05:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkins View Post
I chose to do the audio a cheaper route.
Or have I missed a component that is cheaper than I thought, that could do what I wanted and use with a balanced differential signal?

Also how are most people doing an ib on the e92, ski hatch? Or cutting the deck up? Id like an ib as I know it's merits as ive got some sennehisers that are open cans and in my logic it must be the same effect of getting rid of the unwanted rearwards wave as not to colour the forwards one. Also going through 4" of seat aint helping clarity. If I did ib I think id want to create a custom deck mount so I can still fold down the seats and is stealth.

Cheers,

Chris
Chris
Fair enough if you were on the budget.

For IB, search for Kaigos IB install. Do you have sky hatch? If yes, life is much more easier.
If not, search IB installation on this forum and you will come across Kaigoss and Mob17's thread.

Worth of reading those.

P.S: I have installed a sub in one of the sound system where you have fitted. It gets 400W. You can feel the bass, but acoustically its not enough.
So the owner wishes to go for upgraded under seats. If it was 400W IB, I am sure it would be enough.
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      06-03-2013, 08:39 PM   #10
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I love the sub box. I wish I could find on in the USA
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      06-03-2013, 10:28 PM   #11
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wow, that is nice. this has been on my to-do list for over a year! if you do decide to export to US, please PM me!
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      06-05-2013, 11:41 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by kayza View Post
wow, that is nice. this has been on my to-do list for over a year! if you do decide to export to US, please PM me!
Will do, although think it needs an entrepreneurial american to take the baton state side.

I set the eq back to everything on 0. and see the trace below (purple). Then this time I flattened the eq so that from 200Hz up its flat ( the doors and tweeters are high passed at 250). MY reasoning for not touching below the 200Hz eq is that this is how bmw have tuned the underseats. So if I run the components up front and the under seats ill get a good sound.

Then i need to high pass the under seats at 80Hz ish then let the sub take over from 80Hz down? Sound like a plan?

Some things i'd like to change in the future,
separate the underseats from the components so they dont recieve the full signal.
Improve the under seats with some morels or something.




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      06-05-2013, 12:02 PM   #13
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I still think this would actually be easier to make out of fiberglass. There is already a liner that goes in that compartment just cut it, and lay your resin and fiberglass right on that liner. You can lay your fiberglass on the inside so you don't need to sand much, or at all. Attach an mdf baffle and your done.

You can get another liner from the dealer if you don't want to ruin the one you already have.
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      06-05-2013, 02:25 PM   #14
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Darn I wish I could get a sub box like that for mine, I like it!
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      06-05-2013, 08:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw325i View Post
I still think this would actually be easier to make out of fiberglass. There is already a liner that goes in that compartment just cut it, and lay your resin and fiberglass right on that liner. You can lay your fiberglass on the inside so you don't need to sand much, or at all. Attach an mdf baffle and your done.

You can get another liner from the dealer if you don't want to ruin the one you already have.
I like that idea a lot. Would that sound any different than a corner loaded sub?
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      06-05-2013, 08:31 PM   #16
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I do not like the corner box because it covers the battery. I really wish I could buy a prebuilt in floor sub box
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      06-05-2013, 09:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rightaway View Post
I do not like the corner box because it covers the battery. I really wish I could buy a prebuilt in floor sub box
Why would that be a problem? It takes about 10 seconds to remove the enclosure, if you take your time. How often do you need to get to the battery???
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      06-09-2013, 11:30 AM   #18
monkins
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I'm looking for some more powerful underseats. Not looking to spend too much would these give much improvement with my 2 x 95rms amp.

http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/prod...20_p-27540.htm

Or is it better to spend triple that and go for jenherts?
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      06-10-2013, 01:40 AM   #19
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Red face

Definetly get something that will give you some good midbass since you already have a trunk sub. I haven't tried anything other than the jehnerts but you definetly won't be disappointed with them.
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      06-10-2013, 08:23 AM   #20
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sup clean install.

what headunit are you using?
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      06-12-2013, 01:23 PM   #21
monkins
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BMW Professional head unit, note the e.q. curve. I'm thinking of putting these under the seats in a custom adapter:




  • 6.5" (16.5cm) 2-way component speakers with 2 x 150W RMS output (equivalent to 2 x 600W max.)
  • The Magnat Selection 216 Reference are a pair of powerful 6.5" (16.5cm) speakers with separate tweeters that produce a finely detailed and dynamic sound image. These car speakers' high-quality audio technology and excellent radiating characteristics guarantee an optimal power transfer, and make them a first-class choice for the front or rear area of your car. In terms of design, the Magnat Selection 216 Reference car speakers feature a black finish for an elegant look.
  • Installation depth: 72mm bass driver / 24mm tweeter

159.90 http://www.hifi-tower.co.uk/Magnat-S...Pair_i9306.htm

https://magnat.de/fileadmin/user_upl...lection_13.pdf

I think they will give a good fast performance close to the Jenhert XE200, but a lot cheaper? I know there only 6.5" not the 8" of the jenhert are they worth a punt?

cheers
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      06-12-2013, 03:47 PM   #22
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Your going to bring down your soundstage by having tweeters under the seat. Also you'd get much better output from an 8" vs a 6.5.

I think you be better off with a pair of logic 7 under seats if you can't afford something better.

If you are wanting to spend some money on it look at jehnert xe200, kicker ssmb8, and morel admw9.
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