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      06-22-2013, 11:16 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by left123 View Post
I called fcpeuro and the guy initially gave me a different part # when I told him what I wanted. Knowing I probably was more informed of the variations on this particular part (I know the guy on the phone knew a lot but I doubt he's studied the different realoem diagrams as much as we have lately), I inquired about the $19.11 part that I posted on this thread. He agreed that it should work but wanted my build date and vin # to call BMW, which he then did.

He called back later on and said that the cheaper $19.11 part DID fit my 06 330i zsp (build date 07/2006).

There does not seem to be a different part # for the sport/non-sport for my build date though, so perhaps thats different for you 335i people. I suppose Ill find out when I take my old strut mount off and visually compare them. My guess is they are the same as the pictures of them match completely all of the other sport parts.
Thanks. Yeah, same case here. There is only one part # for my build date 02/2007. Let us know what you find out when you get it.
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      06-22-2013, 06:21 PM   #24
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The BMW performance kit tells you to order the newer improved strut mounts the LCI cars have, It's not necessary you could reuse your exiting strut mounts, but I would replace them going through all the trouble disassembling the strut.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...75098/ES49736/

Those are the improved strut mounts

For vehicles with
M Sports suspension
and
BMW Performance suspension
S704A=Yes

SZP5A=Yes
01 Guide support 2 31306775098 $125.53


You can see they look like they have some heat treatment on the metal.
The ones currently on your car won't look like that.

Make sure you order the correct ones and not the non-sport package ones.
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      06-22-2013, 06:41 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by left123 View Post
The BMW PS kit comes with 10-13 so I guess I was lucky in that sense (although Im sure I paid a premium to get the kit in the first place). Good luck with the install and let us know how it goes.

Btw, what kit/setup are you installing wheen? Just curious.
Not sure when I'm doing the full install but I will be assembling the struts this weekend. Rented 2 sets of spring compressors this morning.

I'm coming from 335i sedan non-sport, and putting together Bilstein B4s + Eibach Pro-Kit spring combo. I was strongly considering the BMWPS but after multiple dealer inquiries and emails to BMW USA, turns out I wouldn't get warranty on the parts if I didn't buy and installed through my local dealers (and they were priced at $4k... ), so I scrapped the idea. Then it came down to KW SC, HPA Koni kit, and Eibach Pro-Street S, and ended up w/ the Bil+eibach combo mainly due to price ($600 vs 1400/1600/1100).

One other reason this combo appealed to me is that since I've never done an install such as this before (... I didn't even own most of the tools required), should anything go wrong, I'd be okay forking out more cash for a shop install.
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      06-22-2013, 06:53 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by index1489 View Post
The BMW performance kit tells you to order the newer improved strut mounts the LCI cars have, It's not necessary you could reuse your exiting strut mounts, but I would replace them going through all the trouble disassembling the strut.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...75098/ES49736/

Those are the improved strut mounts

For vehicles with
M Sports suspension
and
BMW Performance suspension
S704A=Yes

SZP5A=Yes
01 Guide support 2 31306775098 $125.53


You can see they look like they have some heat treatment on the metal.
The ones currently on your car won't look like that.

Make sure you order the correct ones and not the non-sport package ones.
That's the same p/n the OP mentioned earlier, but the "OEM" variant.
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      06-23-2013, 05:58 AM   #27
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That guide support part number shows up at Turner's web site for $45.
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      06-24-2013, 10:21 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by index1489
The BMW performance kit tells you to order the newer improved strut mounts the LCI cars have, It's not necessary you could reuse your exiting strut mounts, but I would replace them going through all the trouble disassembling the strut.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...75098/ES49736/

Those are the improved strut mounts

For vehicles with
M Sports suspension
and
BMW Performance suspension
S704A=Yes

SZP5A=Yes
01 Guide support 2 31306775098 $125.53


You can see they look like they have some heat treatment on the metal.
The ones currently on your car won't look like that.

Make sure you order the correct ones and not the non-sport package ones.
Where do you see this information? I don't see anything suggesting this on getbmwparts.com. Only this:

***E90 sedans up to 05/2006 require new front guide supports. Add a quantity of 2 of part # 31306775098 to your cart.

Is that why you mean? Plus, shouldn't the kit already come with new strut mounts since it's supposed to be a full package?
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      06-25-2013, 02:34 PM   #29
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Before you buy anything, make sure you know what the exact problem is. I installed PSS10s last year and after winter driving in Chicago, the driver side front PSS10 strut bold/screw (with allen in middle) baceme loose enough to notice slight knocking while slowly accelerating or breaking or going over uneven roads. I unscrewed the Strut brace on one side and moved it just enough so i can put a socket in and screwed shock tight. Boom problem gone, well at least for now. So first tighten down bolts before you buy any strut mount parts.

The way I diagnosed the problem was; while parked, i opened the hood and started rocking the car up and down just to make sure i can still feel slight knocking noise. Make sure you are in quiet area. And if you rock the car you should feel slight knocking. I tightened strut mount (screw that mounts the shock to strut mount) and all good now.

This should be the first step you do in my opinion. These becoume loose i guess after harsh road conditions, pot holes, rorad craters, etc.
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      06-25-2013, 10:32 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by labedra View Post
I unscrewed the Strut brace on one side and moved it just enough so i can put a socket in and screwed shock tight.
Sorry off-topic, but what torque values did you use to put the strut brace back together? Also, would simply removing the one E14 screw on one side allow the strut brace to clear enough to do what you did (to tighten the top nut) or did you have to loosen the firewall mount screw also? (and if yes, what was the torque value of that?)
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      06-26-2013, 09:09 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by left123 View Post
I believe the rear mount is 6789112.
Thanks left123! You may be right. It could also be the 890 / 905 pieces. The rear mounts usually come separately as upper and lower pieces.

I'm not able to get any info on those numbers, but I may try to order the parts anyway.
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      07-04-2013, 12:13 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheen View Post
Sorry off-topic, but what torque values did you use to put the strut brace back together? Also, would simply removing the one E14 screw on one side allow the strut brace to clear enough to do what you did (to tighten the top nut) or did you have to loosen the firewall mount screw also? (and if yes, what was the torque value of that?)
Sorry didn't use torque ranch, did it during lunch time . I tightened so its tight to feel (when screw wont durn anymore, "soft tighten"), then tighten again approximately 2-3/10 of a turn. It's just a strut brace but I would assume that you don't need to tighten that hard. If it was engine part I would use a torque ranch like head bolts etc. but for strut brace just make sure it is tight enough so it doesn't unscrew.
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      07-07-2013, 11:20 AM   #33
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post install thoughts

I completed the BMW PS install this weekend and wanted to throw out my thoughts. I know there are lots of people who have written DIY's on suspension install but I figured the more info the better for people considering this. If you haven't discovered this ecstuning video on installing coilovers on the e9x car, its a must watch:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14238605&postcount=8


1. People/Tools: This is definitely a 2 person job if you want your sanity. Ideally a 3 person with the 3rd as the tool gofer! Plus, an air compressor/impact wrench or electric impact wrench is a major advantage. Also, get a rubber mallet/dead blow hammer to "encourage" stubborn struts into place.

2. Strut Mounts: The ones I purchased in this thread (fcpeuro) for $19.11 are an exact replacement of the oem parts. They even had the logos grinded off the part to hide the BMW (at least thats what I think), similar to the TRW branded front control arms.

3. Front Removal From Car: I did not have to use a spring compressor to get the front spring/strut out of the car. It seems several people are compressing the spring while its in the car, but I see no reason to do this. Plus, compressing the spring while it is outside of the car is INFINITELY easier than while its on the car (use of an electric/gas drill). The above video also uses this method.

4. Pre-Assembly of Fronts: I had purchased all ancillary parts shown in a previous post and only used the dust cap (smaller circular metal cap). I asked earlier if it was worth the extra $40 to be able to pre-assemble the new spring/strut without having to disassemble the old. I my opinion it is definitely worth the $40 to pre-assemble. This way, you only need to use the spring compressor 2 times, once for each side, and you can leave the old spring/strut assembled for later or a new owner. Just my opinion.

5. Lubrication: Grease and wd-40 work great to remove and to install old and new suspension parts. Don't forget about these.

6. Front Caliper/Rotor Removal: Remove the caliper and rotor on the fronts. This makes it much easier to manipulate and remove/install the new front strut. It takes only a few minutes more to do this and its worth it (the video also references this).

7. Fronts vs Rears: I, interestingly, found the rears more difficult, almost exclusively because of trying to line up the outer control arm bolt back into place. This was a serious pain. The fronts involve more steps but I found it more straightforward.

Good luck to anyone else considering this DIY. I find this process, like a lot of you, extremely satisfying and would never consider paying someone $500+ to do this. I guess I have more time/patience than money (a good set of tools and willing brother to help really facilitates things too).
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      07-08-2013, 09:46 PM   #34
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Thank you!! Great input.
By the way, how does your new suspension feel?
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      07-08-2013, 10:52 PM   #35
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Thank you!! Great input.
By the way, how does your new suspension feel?
No problem.

I'm still feeling the suspension out but I can say that it is definitely very smooth. No adverse effects of a new suspension. I'm still looking into this, but my front didn't lower at all compared to my initial measurements but the rear went down about a half inch (which is exactly the opposite of what I expected). It seemed like the BMW PS front springs were shorter and the rears were the same length, yet I got the opposite effects when mounted. I'm fairly certain everything is together as it should be and I made my measurements from the wheel center cap to fender height (not the floor), but even so, my measurements were made in the same location in the garage. I wasn't overly concerned with lowering it, just looking for flatter handling, which lowering the Cg can do.

Nonetheless, I really enjoyed the install process and really like how smooth the car drives. I hope to autocross it in a few weeks and can perhaps talk more about the actual dynamic handling after that.
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      07-08-2013, 11:20 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by labedra View Post
Before you buy anything, make sure you know what the exact problem is. I installed PSS10s last year and after winter driving in Chicago, the driver side front PSS10 strut bold/screw (with allen in middle) baceme loose enough to notice slight knocking while slowly accelerating or breaking or going over uneven roads. I unscrewed the Strut brace on one side and moved it just enough so i can put a socket in and screwed shock tight. Boom problem gone, well at least for now. So first tighten down bolts before you buy any strut mount parts.

The way I diagnosed the problem was; while parked, i opened the hood and started rocking the car up and down just to make sure i can still feel slight knocking noise. Make sure you are in quiet area. And if you rock the car you should feel slight knocking. I tightened strut mount (screw that mounts the shock to strut mount) and all good now.

This should be the first step you do in my opinion. These becoume loose i guess after harsh road conditions, pot holes, rorad craters, etc.
Subscribed, since I'm having the same issues on pss9
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      07-10-2013, 12:19 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
Make sure they are the sport suspension strut mounts and not the standard susp mounts.
Do you know what the difference is between the guide supports for the sport and non-sport?

I have a non-sport - and am thinking about going to sport springs or eibach pro-kit springs and either eibach dampers or koni fsd dampers and want to know which guide supports to buy.
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      07-11-2013, 11:15 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by cdgatti View Post
Do you know what the difference is between the guide supports for the sport and non-sport?

I have a non-sport - and am thinking about going to sport springs or eibach pro-kit springs and either eibach dampers or koni fsd dampers and want to know which guide supports to buy.
afaik rubber durometer and stack height
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      07-18-2013, 10:17 PM   #39
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Anyone know why realoem says "The following part is absolutely vital for shock absorber replacements: Additional shock absorber, rear"

The additional shock absorber is the bump stop / cover.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...63&hg=33&fg=45
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      07-18-2013, 10:23 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poldim View Post
Anyone know why realoem says "The following part is absolutely vital for shock absorber replacements: Additional shock absorber, rear"

The additional shock absorber is the bump stop / cover.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...63&hg=33&fg=45
Im assuming they are suggesting that new shock absorbers are typically paired with lower springs and shorter bump stops are typically paired with lower springs. As I am sure you are aware, the BMWPS kit comes with this part as part of the kit and has a different bump stop as well, just for reference.

My thoughts.
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Last edited by left123; 07-18-2013 at 10:28 PM.
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      07-19-2013, 11:35 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by left123 View Post
Im assuming they are suggesting that new shock absorbers are typically paired with lower springs and shorter bump stops are typically paired with lower springs. As I am sure you are aware, the BMWPS kit comes with this part as part of the kit and has a different bump stop as well, just for reference.

My thoughts.
I'm replacing my struts and shocks only. Keeping stock ZSP as I'm happy with it. While I can understand why you would replace the bump stops when changing to different spring geometry, but if its a simple strut replacement, it doesn't necessarily make sense. While they are a rubber-ish type material, they should get minimal use and compression. Do indy shops replace these when swapping out the suspension?
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      07-19-2013, 11:39 AM   #42
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This is what I'm looking to get

Code:
	No.	Description	                      Qty	Part Number
Front	1	Guide support	                        2	31306775098
Front	10	SPRING PAD UPPER	                2	31336767500
Front	12	Protection tube	                        2	31331094749
Front	13	SPRING PAD LOWER	                2	31336764372
Rear	3	Additional shock absorber, rear      	2	33536767335
Rear	4	SUPPORTING CUP                        	2	33526764418
Rear	5	Sealing grommet	                        2	33506767010
Rear	6	Guide support, lower part	        2	33506771738
Rear	7	Guide support, upper part               2	33506771737
Rear	8	SPRING PAD LOWER	                2	33536764420
Rear	9	SPRING PAD UPPER                  	2	33536764419
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