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      07-29-2013, 07:50 PM   #1
qwikrex
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OpenFlash Vishnu stg 0 map installed. Dyno and 1/4 runs inside

I recently picked up an OpenFlash Tablet for my 2010 335i 6AT. Car has ~25,000 miles on it. Running 93 octane here in FL. Best dyno run stock was about 279 whp and 286 wtq. Best 1/4 run stock was a 13.52@103 with a 2.01 60' at PBIR. Temp was about 77 deg and humid.

I flashed my car last week with the Vishnu stg 0 OTS map as my car is bone stock otherwise. Went for an initial test run and lucky me, ended up blowing the factory plastic charge pipe off. The flange broke, so I picked up an Active Autowerke charge pipe and bov combo to replace it. After fixing that, went for some runs and car felt pretty strong. Took it back to the track last weekend and posted a best ET of 12.89@108.5 with a 2.07 60' in about 79 degree humid weather.

Today I went to get some dyno pulls done. Conditions were about 92 degrees and humid. I was fairly happy with the results, but whp was lower than I expected it to be based on other dynos that I've seen done on the stg 0 map, especially with me running 93 octane and the other dynos running 91. I dynoed ~330 whp. This was a bit lower than the ~345-350 I was expecting. Torque kept increasing with each subsequent run. Ended up with a best of 385 lbs feet of torque which I was happy with.

Without datalogging enabled, there wasn't really much I could do to determine why my whp was a little lower than expected. A/F on the wideband seemed fairly rich though. Any ideas and/or opinions?

Here's my dyno plot, including my baseline which was done about a month ago, same dyno shop.

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      07-29-2013, 07:54 PM   #2
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Thanks for the write-up OP Very interesting
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      07-29-2013, 08:25 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by qwikrex View Post
I recently picked up an OpenFlash Tablet for my 2010 335i 6AT. Car has ~25,000 miles on it. Running 93 octane here in FL. Best dyno run stock was about 279 whp and 286 wtq. Best 1/4 run stock was a 13.52@103 with a 2.01 60' at PBIR. Temp was about 77 deg and humid.

I flashed my car last week with the Vishnu stg 0 OTS map as my car is bone stock otherwise. Went for an initial test run and lucky me, ended up blowing the factory plastic charge pipe off. The flange broke, so I picked up an Active Autowerke charge pipe and bov combo to replace it. After fixing that, went for some runs and car felt pretty strong. Took it back to the track last weekend and posted a best ET of 12.89@108.5 with a 2.07 60' in about 79 degree humid weather.

Today I went to get some dyno pulls done. Conditions were about 92 degrees and humid. I was fairly happy with the results, but whp was lower than I expected it to be based on other dynos that I've seen done on the stg 0 map, especially with me running 93 octane and the other dynos running 91. I dynoed ~330 whp. This was a bit lower than the ~345-350 I was expecting. Torque kept increasing with each subsequent run. Ended up with a best of 385 lbs feet of torque which I was happy with.

Without datalogging enabled, there wasn't really much I could do to determine why my whp was a little lower than expected. A/F on the wideband seemed fairly rich though. Any ideas and/or opinions?

Here's my dyno plot, including my baseline which was done about a month ago, same dyno shop.

Good testing sir. Running 12s with just a tune is pretty cool. Just a few things to consider with regards to dyno numbers:

-They will change considerably depending on testing conditions. Testing on a 90+ deg day with high humidity will give you lower numbers than testing on a 70deg day with low humidity. Dynojet correction factor will compensate partially but not fully considering that the tune, itself, gets more conservative (it's not static) when IATs rise. When IATs rise, the DME will target a lower ignition advance value.
-Running 93 oct (vs 91oct) will not improve numbers unless the tune is too aggressive for 91oct. In the case of the Stg0 tune, it's quite conservative. As you can see with the dyno numbers being so consistent and smooth, there is not a hint of knock retard anywhere. With 93ot, you might want to step up to Stg1 which will bump things up another ~15whp all other things equal.
-The car is not running too rich at ~11:1. Sure you can run it leaner but it won't be worth much power. From my experience, the key to making more power in such a case is to run a more aggressive map (stg1). And to dyno when temp and humidity isn't so high. The last bit probably isn't realistic at this time of the year in Florida

Cheers,
Shiv
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      07-29-2013, 09:08 PM   #4
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nice! lmao funny that i got almost the same time 12.9@109 with 2.0 60' 1st time to the track. same mods.

ask open flash for a e30 map
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      07-29-2013, 09:15 PM   #5
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I thought the point of a "Stage 0" tune or map on most platforms was to mimic a stock type tune. Shouldn't this type of increase be considered a Stage 1 map?
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      07-29-2013, 09:23 PM   #6
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I ran a 12.7 109 with my xdrive on Cobb Stage 1 OTS maps. It will be interesting to compare what runs I get with the OpenFlash I just ordered. I also ran a 12.2 116mph with xdrive on stage 2+ Cobb with 93 octane. What map on the openflash should I use at the track if I have catless downpipes, helix FMIC, intake, and secondary cats deleted? I also have access to Ethenol. I want to do a fare comparison.
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      07-29-2013, 09:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brusk View Post
I thought the point of a "Stage 0" tune or map on most platforms was to mimic a stock type tune. Shouldn't this type of increase be considered a Stage 1 map?
It's just marketing when companies reference stages. It's just so you know where you came from or where the next step is in terms of aggressiveness.

All you need to know is stage 0 is less aggressive then stage 1 in this case. What point is a tune that mimics stock anyway? Just stay stock, no?
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      07-29-2013, 10:09 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by idrift4wd View Post
nice! lmao funny that i got almost the same time 12.9@109 with 2.0 60' 1st time to the track. same mods.

ask open flash for a e30 map
You can make it yourself easily, just change bank 1 and bank 2's fuel scaler from 1.0 to 1.106 for 30% e85.

For just 30% e85 the computer is able to adapt well already, but the fuel scaler will give you a little more wiggle room if you accidentally run e40 or e50 ect... Although anything above e40 without an inline pump or (e85 walbro) then you might go lean depending on your pumps mileage.

For the fuel scaler list it can be found here.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...0&postcount=51
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      07-29-2013, 10:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
It's just marketing when companies reference stages. It's just so you know where you came from or where the next step is in terms of aggressiveness.

All you need to know is stage 0 is less aggressive then stage 1 in this case. What point is a tune that mimics stock anyway? Just stay stock, no?
Well in terms of flash it's nice if you want a stock like to revert back to without the entire reflash or unmarry process. And since about every other tuner for the N54 has a stage 0 or stock equivalent would have made sense to stick with what people already knew.
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      07-29-2013, 10:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu View Post
Good testing sir. Running 12s with just a tune is pretty cool. Just a few things to consider with regards to dyno numbers:

-They will change considerably depending on testing conditions. Testing on a 90+ deg day with high humidity will give you lower numbers than testing on a 70deg day with low humidity. Dynojet correction factor will compensate partially but not fully considering that the tune, itself, gets more conservative (it's not static) when IATs rise. When IATs rise, the DME will target a lower ignition advance value.
-Running 93 oct (vs 91oct) will not improve numbers unless the tune is too aggressive for 91oct. In the case of the Stg0 tune, it's quite conservative. As you can see with the dyno numbers being so consistent and smooth, there is not a hint of knock retard anywhere. With 93ot, you might want to step up to Stg1 which will bump things up another ~15whp all other things equal.
-The car is not running too rich at ~11:1. Sure you can run it leaner but it won't be worth much power. From my experience, the key to making more power in such a case is to run a more aggressive map (stg1). And to dyno when temp and humidity isn't so high. The last bit probably isn't realistic at this time of the year in Florida

Cheers,
Shiv
So would I be safe to run the stg 1 map being on 93 octane, with my current mods as is?
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      07-29-2013, 10:22 PM   #11
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So would I be safe to run the stg 1 map being on 93 octane, with my current mods as is?
Id run stage 1 when you get a fmic since that is where the real gain is. You can also add a mix of 30% e85 for increased performance.
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      07-29-2013, 10:32 PM   #12
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So would I be safe to run the stg 1 map being on 93 octane, with my current mods as is?
I think stage 1 only requires DCIs.
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      07-30-2013, 12:57 AM   #13
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So would I be safe to run the stg 1 map being on 93 octane, with my current mods as is?
Yes, it would be perfectly safe. These maps were developed and tested on stock and DCI-only cars here in CA were we only get 91oct. So they really are pretty conservative. Definitely give Stg1 a go if you have 93oct. Even if you don't have DCIs or FMIC (although both of these will help as well).

Shiv
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      07-30-2013, 08:04 AM   #14
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Yes, it would be perfectly safe. These maps were developed and tested on stock and DCI-only cars here in CA were we only get 91oct. So they really are pretty conservative. Definitely give Stg1 a go if you have 93oct. Even if you don't have DCIs or FMIC (although both of these will help as well).

Shiv
Ok cool. Also, is it necessary to reset any dme adaptations when flashing to a different map?

In addition, should I be concerned that I keep throwing a p2aaf fuel pump plausibility code on the stg 0 map?

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      07-30-2013, 08:52 AM   #15
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theres only so much the car can take on the stock FMIC. you need to upgrade it for more consistency run to run.

especially in the Lauderdale area where the coolest it may get is high 50s.
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      07-30-2013, 10:42 AM   #16
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theres only so much the car can take on the stock FMIC. you need to upgrade it for more consistency run to run.

especially in the Lauderdale area where the coolest it may get is high 50s.
+1 Although you are lucky to see 70's at night in the summer.
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      07-31-2013, 03:57 PM   #17
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Tried the stg 1 map yesterday. Ended up flashing back to the stage 0. Car felt faster on certain instances with the stg 1, but the engine bay seemed to get hotter, and IAT's were a little higher as well. Car just felt a little choked. Maybe due to my lack of mods.
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      07-31-2013, 04:03 PM   #18
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Tried the stg 1 map yesterday. Ended up flashing back to the stage 0. Car felt faster on certain instances with the stg 1, but the engine bay seemed to get hotter, and IAT's were a little higher as well. Car just felt a little choked. Maybe due to my lack of mods.
IATs shouldn't be much hotter with the Stg1 map as it only targets ~1psi more boost above 5500rpm. But definitely stick to whatever map you prefer
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      07-31-2013, 04:17 PM   #19
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qwikrex Where at in Florida are you? It was pretty hot today and yesterday. If you're somewhat close you should come out to test and tune in bradenton tomorrow night.
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      07-31-2013, 04:19 PM   #20
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qwikrex Where at in Florida are you? It was pretty hot today and yesterday. If you're somewhat close you should come out to test and tune in bradenton tomorrow night.
I am going to try to get down there next week.
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      08-01-2013, 09:32 AM   #21
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qwikrex Where at in Florida are you? It was pretty hot today and yesterday. If you're somewhat close you should come out to test and tune in bradenton tomorrow night.
I'm located in South Florida, so Bradenton is a bit far from me.

I did however head out to PBIR again last night. Was a bit hotter out than the last time I ran. Only thing I changed was I swapped my stock filter for a K&N drop in. Still on the Stg 0 map. Hit a best ET of 12.863@109.29. Best trap of the night was 109.5. I did notice that after my 3rd or 4th run, I heard some loud lifter tick for a minute or two. It went away and didn't hear it for the rest of the night.

One other thing I noticed. If i let the car cool down for too long, I seem to run slower than when the car is hotter. If I give it 20 minutes at most between runs, my runs get subsequently quicker. For example, I'll run a 12.9, then a 12.8, then a lower 12.8. But if I let the car sit for an hour or more, I'll run again and trap lower around 108.5 with a slower ET. I kind of noticed this on the dyno, with each dyno run producing more and more torque as the engine got hotter (about 10 mins between runs). Why is this?
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      08-01-2013, 12:15 PM   #22
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I would like to see this info on a STG1 map on a stock setup. Anyone out there?
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