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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - Amplifier/Sub Install for E92 with I-Drive



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Dr.phuOnger?'s Avatar DIY - Amplifier/Sub Install for E92 with I-Drive
Dr.phuOnger?
10-01-2007
After researching on the forums, there hasn't been a complete DIY install for e92's with i-Drive so i vowed to make one after i figured out how to get my own amp and sub installed.

Credit to etik for the wiring guide on his DIY. I'll be referring to his wiring diagram for the...
  #22  
By sillygoat on 05-19-2008, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontopofm View Post
i just ordered the earthquake sws-8 to replace the oem and alpine mpr m550, do i need LVT2 and STINGER SLOCII? seems like cardomain.com doesnt carry those items anymore, anyone knows where to get them if my set up needs it, ty
i got mine off of ebay i think it costed me about 20 dollars for both of them
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  #23  
By ontopofm on 05-21-2008, 09:38 PM
i paid around $30 for both
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  #24  
By Dr.phuOnger? on 07-11-2008, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontopofm View Post
i just ordered the earthquake sws-8 to replace the oem and alpine mpr m550, do i need LVT2 and STINGER SLOCII? seems like cardomain.com doesnt carry those items anymore, anyone knows where to get them if my set up needs it, ty
If you're replacing anything that has to with the amp, you're going to need a remote switch wire to power your aftermarket amp.

if you're replacing the oem, what i would suggest doign is running your own cable from ur new amp to the new subs.

If you dont want to do that, then you can plug the oem wires from the old sub into ur new sub. U might ahve to do some cutting.

Then intercept where the stock wire for the sub goes to the stock amp and cut that and re-route that to your new amp.

U'll still need a LVT but i suggest you buy a PAC Trunk LOC with built in LVT.

Its one unit that has the line output converter and a low voltage trigger in one
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  #25  
By rayson22 on 03-19-2009, 01:55 AM
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have a quick question here, i took my e90 to an audio shop and let them installed my sub system ( 1 sub woofer 1200w, and amplifier 980w.) when they are done hooking everything up including the hi low switch, just noticed that even though the stereo is off i can still here the sub making that boom sound and even after i took the keys off the ignition it stayed on for about 5 mins. could there any possibilities that they hooked up to the wrong wires? any help will be greatly appreciated! do i need a capacitor to fix this?
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  #26  
By Dr.phuOnger? on 03-25-2009, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayson22 View Post
have a quick question here, i took my e90 to an audio shop and let them installed my sub system ( 1 sub woofer 1200w, and amplifier 980w.) when they are done hooking everything up including the hi low switch, just noticed that even though the stereo is off i can still here the sub making that boom sound and even after i took the keys off the ignition it stayed on for about 5 mins. could there any possibilities that they hooked up to the wrong wires? any help will be greatly appreciated! do i need a capacitor to fix this?
Hmm... so when you turn off your subwoofer is still making noises?

Did they use a Low Voltage Trigger? I know you said HI Low switch but i think you're referring to the High Low meaing the signal converter to go from speaker wire to RCA for your amp input.

It may be that the audio store chose to use an existing 12v switched wire to power on your amp. This wire is said to be triggered on and stays on for about 5 minutes after you turn off and lock your car. That would explain why it stays on for 5 minutes. As far as the noise is concerned from your subwoofer, is it constantly boom shaking, or is it intermittenly thudding, or hum. I'm not sure what you mean by "boom" sound.

The only possibility i can think of right now is your amp is still left on after your car is off for 5 minutes, which is due to tapping that 12v switched wire, and then your High Low level converter is sending signal into your amp which is making your subwoofer sound off.

U could have bad ground to bad connection.
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  #27  
By KrysAlpineE92 on 06-03-2009, 03:14 PM
you dont need a low volt trigger. you can run up to 12volts into the remote wire terminal. Most people who hardwire the switch just run a 12v remote wire from the battery with a switch in it.

you can even splice a speaker wire (low output) from a stock speaker and use the power from that as a remote wire so when you turn the stereo off the sub goes off. saves time and wires.

PM me for more info
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  #28  
By KrysAlpineE92 on 06-03-2009, 03:17 PM
also...your ground wire is so close to the negative terminal on the battery...you should run the ground to that to reduce any road noise that comes into the speaker wire. Running the ground to the negative terminal is the preferred way. However, because most batteries are up front so normally installers dont run the wire to the front (even though it is the best way to do it). For us it is that much easier because the battery is in the trunk
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  #29  
By jreich on 06-04-2009, 12:15 AM
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I plan on doing a sub install eventually....thanks for the info. Instead of a LVT, you can use an automotive grade relay that can be purchased for < $2. Tie the + of the coil to the ignition wire (or something else that is on when you plug in your key...lighter socket should work), - to ground. SPDT (single pole double throw) should be fine. That is assuming the enable for you amp just requires a logic level high of a given voltage. Make sure the enable doesn’t draw more than the relay spec. I can almost guarantee you that LVT is a relay in a box with a resistor and a LED. Also, make sure your amp can handle 12V enable. It is also a good idea to solder instead of using crimps or screw-ons....wouldnt want to disable your amp from a sudden bump.
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  #30  
By Dr.phuOnger? on 06-04-2009, 11:34 AM
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These are all great solutions to getting an LVT.

I would recommended getting a PAC Audio Trunk LOC-2 though if you havent purchased a line out converter or doing any recommended voltage triggers.

the Pac Audio Trunk LOC-2 is one device that gives you your Low Level Output and your remote trigger.

http://www.fadfusion.com/selection.p...er=20082404887

its less than 20 bucks. Just an option. There's many ways to do this set up.
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  #31  
By Whitebread on 12-19-2009, 01:16 AM
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I hope this thread is still being monitored. I am about to follow your DIY but I have a question. If you're tapping into those sub speaker wires, are you getting a signal that has already been crossed over. If so, I would suspect that the frequency range for those under-seat subs is not the same frequency range for any decent sub being added (I'll be using a JL W7).

Can anyone answer this... Thanks!
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  #32  
By Dr.phuOnger? on 12-20-2009, 10:15 PM
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hey there,

i'm not sure if the wires being tapped are crossed over but i'm sure they would be.

as far as the frequency range, i have it going into a JL amp with a w1 and a w6 and it sounds great.
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  #33  
By mkPOTO on 12-20-2009, 10:28 PM
very nice write up DOC
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  #34  
By Whitebread on 12-24-2009, 07:45 AM
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WOW!!!

I did this install the other day. I used a 10" JL W7 with a JL 500/1 amp. Man... it hits low!

Thanks for the DIY!!!
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  #35  
By stikya on 03-16-2010, 10:02 PM
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great write-up thanks...1 option to add

Just did this install a couple weeks ago. Kicker CVT 10", Orion XTR375 at 400 watts.

Thought some might be interested in my DIY pass-through / port option for the rear deck to let more bass out.

I wasn't getting a lot of bass sound in the cabin without putting my armrest down (w/ ski bag removed) or seat down. But that isn't always convenient, so...

I didn't want more subs and space taken up. So, I devised a sound pass-through to let as much bass as possible escape w/out seat fold-down.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=11441223

Granted it only lets about 50% of the bass out, but it's much better than having nothing open to the trunk for those times a "fold-down" isn't an option.

Once I get the mesh on it will look real clean.
Last edited by stikya; 03-16-2010 at 10:08 PM.
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  #36  
By slowSwede on 04-01-2010, 02:26 PM
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Hello!

Just tore up my trunk, to find I don´t have any amp in there...or at least not anywhere I can find it.
I have an E92 with I-drive.

So, now what do I do?
I have subs under my front seats, perhaps I should tap these to the hi-low converter? Or can I tap the small speakers on each side where a rear-seat passenger would be seated?

Thanks for any input!
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  #37  
By peterhoang1988 on 06-08-2010, 12:17 AM
what size t-taps do i get? can anyone give me the guage of the wires?
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  #38  
By RacerUnderTheSon on 10-04-2010, 12:42 PM
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those t-taps worked great on my H/K harness
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  #39  
By RacerUnderTheSon on 10-04-2010, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterhoang1988 View Post
what size t-taps do i get? can anyone give me the guage of the wires?
search amazon, you'll see them for a few bucks
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  #40  
By elratrero69 on 01-06-2011, 12:27 AM
great write up, i tried your method and no boom. I have the L7 idrive.
hifonics 1200 and two diamond audio d3 12". I have triple checked everything, is it because its not possible in my e90 335xi ???
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  #41  
By kiwi29 on 07-20-2011, 03:36 AM
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for the hi low converter aka LOC(line out converter) i installed it under the rear speaker and ran the rca connection straight through the foam padding under it and it makes a much easier job to wire tuck
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  #42  
By Derui on 07-20-2011, 11:07 PM
does the rca need to be ran up front with the idrive or is all the wiring done in the trunk?
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  #43  
By kiwi29 on 07-21-2011, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derui View Post
does the rca need to be ran up front with the idrive or is all the wiring done in the trunk?
the rca connection is ran where ever you put the LOC at. The best place I've found was in the trunk but opposite side of the remote wire and power (so it doesn't get possible static interference, also better sound quality imo)
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