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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - Amplifier/Sub Install for E92 with I-Drive



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      07-21-2011, 04:02 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
the rca connection is ran where ever you put the LOC at. The best place I've found was in the trunk but opposite side of the remote wire and power (so it doesn't get possible static interference, also better sound quality imo)
Yes it goes where the LOC is... all the wiring is done in the trunk pretty much - no need for any inside/front wiring.
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      07-21-2011, 08:58 PM   #46
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For me the only thing that was ran to the front at all was the remote wire to the fuse box but of course i'm pretty sure there are was around it?
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      08-22-2011, 04:08 PM   #47
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About to install this in my 08 328 xi without iDrive.

Had a question, so I bought some t-taps and forgot to get the insulated spade quick disconnects, do I need female or male ones?

Just need that and an rca cable and im set to install it!

Will yall know how it ended up
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      08-22-2011, 10:37 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdrozer View Post
About to install this in my 08 328 xi without iDrive.

Had a question, so I bought some t-taps and forgot to get the insulated spade quick disconnects, do I need female or male ones?

Just need that and an rca cable and im set to install it!

Will yall know how it ended up
you'll need the female? i believe
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I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      08-22-2011, 10:38 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.phuOnger? View Post
Yes it goes where the LOC is... all the wiring is done in the trunk pretty much - no need for any inside/front wiring.
except of course for the remote right? i haven't found any other way seeing as the fuse box is in the inside unless you've tapped it to the stock amp?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      08-23-2011, 05:26 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
except of course for the remote right? i haven't found any other way seeing as the fuse box is in the inside unless you've tapped it to the stock amp?
the PAC Audio LOC - depending on which one you get... has a option for remote wire.

I know one of them has LOC-low output converter as well as providing a Remote wire signal for the amp
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      08-23-2011, 05:27 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
you'll need the female? i believe
it should be MALE.


the T Tap is a FEMALE and you Insert the MALE spade into the T Tap
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      08-23-2011, 07:03 PM   #52
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ohhhhhhhh it'd be easier if i had pics to see
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      08-23-2011, 07:07 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
ohhhhhhhh it'd be easier if i had pics to see


The spade - you can see.. is just a MALE - its a metal spade that goes into the T-TAP
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      08-23-2011, 10:18 PM   #54
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Hey guys, quick question.

So I have my hi-lo converter (amp interface adapter).

How can I tell which one goes into the positive sub wire and negative?

If you cant tell in the picture, there are 4 wires, 2 white and 2 gray. One wire of each pair has a black stripe whilst the other does not.

does it matter? or should i just pick one and stick with it?

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      08-24-2011, 03:17 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdrozer View Post
Hey guys, quick question.

So I have my hi-lo converter (amp interface adapter).

How can I tell which one goes into the positive sub wire and negative?

If you cant tell in the picture, there are 4 wires, 2 white and 2 gray. One wire of each pair has a black stripe whilst the other does not.

does it matter? or should i just pick one and stick with it?

The manual doesnt tell you which one is which?

For me - i ususally go with wire with a stripe on it as negative.

the wire without stripe on it is positive.

You can just pick which way you want to go with and stick to it.

If you choose wire with black stripe as negative, then make sure when you connect your subwoofer, use black stripe as negative on your AMP to Subwoofer as well.

ALthought it doenst really matter in most audio applications you can have it reversed but keep them all the same polarity
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      08-24-2011, 04:05 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.phuOnger? View Post
The manual doesnt tell you which one is which?

For me - i ususally go with wire with a stripe on it as negative.

the wire without stripe on it is positive.

You can just pick which way you want to go with and stick to it.

If you choose wire with black stripe as negative, then make sure when you connect your subwoofer, use black stripe as negative on your AMP to Subwoofer as well.

ALthought it doenst really matter in most audio applications you can have it reversed but keep them all the same polarity
true, but sometimes when they don't get the correct polarity it tends to buzz and thump more than clean crisp bumps
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      08-24-2011, 11:28 PM   #57
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thanks guys!
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      09-01-2011, 11:15 PM   #58
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okay, and...i have another question.

How exactly would I connect my positive wire to my battery?
can I just trim down the plastic of the wire, and like wrap it around the terminal and tighten the wire down under the washer?
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      09-02-2011, 01:47 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdrozer View Post
okay, and...i have another question.

How exactly would I connect my positive wire to my battery?
can I just trim down the plastic of the wire, and like wrap it around the terminal and tighten the wire down under the washer?
LOL no... you need to crimp one end of the power wire to a terminal like this.



make sure you plug it into the positive power all the way at the near the front ...

do not use place it where the battery safety kill box is in the in the middle.
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      09-02-2011, 01:52 AM   #60
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Also - updated thread with postive battery connection area.

here's the pic.. its also on main diy

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      09-04-2011, 01:54 AM   #61
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Dr, sorry, I don't understand why you updated which positive connection to use. What was wrong with the first location, that the front one is so much better? Don't most people use the first spot you had used?

IIRC, I think I saw someone even buy a special BMW connector that goes on the end of the wire so that it is plug and play with one of the free positive ports next to that one in fact.
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      09-04-2011, 05:06 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus99 View Post
Dr, sorry, I don't understand why you updated which positive connection to use. What was wrong with the first location, that the front one is so much better? Don't most people use the first spot you had used?

IIRC, I think I saw someone even buy a special BMW connector that goes on the end of the wire so that it is plug and play with one of the free positive ports next to that one in fact.
The reason why I updated it is because there may be some instances where the user does not properly add an inline fuse or when they are driving and their amp and things are not tightened down an loose, it could cause a short or surge of voltage. The power where we originally tapped is off the crash assistance system. In a accident, that battery crash assistant thing will cut power to your car. If your system shorts that safety then you will lose power to car/go on limp mode.

If we use the first connection it is before the safety device.

I have had only one person I know of that this happened to their car. They were running an old school amp that was faulty and it caused his safety device to to activate and it put his car into limp mode. BMW charged about 300 to replace it.

It's not to say this will happen to your car but I would rather you guys use this other terminal to be safe. I know alot of people like to shortcut or install things because they are impatient. Better to be safe is my always my priority with electrical
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      09-04-2011, 03:07 PM   #63
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Where in this picture is the harness and the locking sleeve?
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      09-04-2011, 11:32 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdrozer View Post


Where in this picture is the harness and the locking sleeve?
Umm the harness is those wires and the locking sleeve is different on your model but there's a release tab that you press to release the harness from amp. Basically to unplug the wires going to your stock amp
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      01-14-2012, 01:02 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus99 View Post
Dr, sorry, I don't understand why you updated which positive connection to use. What was wrong with the first location, that the front one is so much better? Don't most people use the first spot you had used?

IIRC, I think I saw someone even buy a special BMW connector that goes on the end of the wire so that it is plug and play with one of the free positive ports next to that one in fact.
Thanks for this info. A local audio shop just installed my amp and long behold the 12v connector was connected to the main pos terminal. I had them swap to the upper right terminal as you described! Thanks for the great info!
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      05-29-2012, 02:48 PM   #66
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hate to bring this back from the dead but i purchased a PAC Soem-t and I can't get the Auto Remote Amp Turn-on to work. Here is a picture of the unit i have:


Can someone tell me how to wire the Yellow, Blue and Blue/black wires to make this work?

Thanks,
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