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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > Factory + Walbro GSL392 Inline Fuel Pump



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Factory + Walbro GSL392 Inline Fuel Pump
Published by buster84
08-03-2013
Factory + Walbro GSL392 Inline Fuel Pump

I wanted to run full e85 so i needed a fuel pump upgrade, I went ahead an created this tutorial for anyone else that wants to do the same. I found the stock connectors needed to make this setup very robust (had help from another member on another forum).

I recommend that you use some good strong chemical gloves to protect your hands from the gasoline. I also recommend this upgrade for anyone who has a tired stock lpfp, or someone who plans to run alot of e85. This is also a good upgrade for people who upgrade there turbos. If you upgrade your turbos and want to run full e85, id suggest getting a walbro e85 pump and keep the inline on as well. Hopefully the hpfp can keep up?
(http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...6#post14937526)

First i recommend buying the fuel pump with 128-3012 Bundy Fittings (oem connections. You can purchase them on ebay, or anywhere else you choose.)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-GSL39...f29ac4&vxp=mtr


You will also need some fuel link bundy connectors. I purchased these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

but any of these will work as well. Its up to you on what you prefer.
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-080...xgy_auto_img_y
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-081...dorman+800-081


Since i already took my oem bundy connection off the yellow hose (you'll see it later) I re-installed it on the pump side. If you prefer not to do this you can just buy the 90 degree bundy fitting from above.

You will also need 1 foot of Gates Submersible fuel line. (can be purchased at napa, but more expensive) http://www.amazon.com/Gates-Rubber-C...16+submersible


Dont forget to get some fuel line clamps (can also be purchased at napa or any other autoparts store) http://www.amazon.com/Breeze-FI5PB-I...xgy_auto_img_y

I Also recommend Oil and Gasoline resistant wire only. Do not use any wire that is not made for gasoline. If the wires were to touch, that would be very bad. You can find this at ace, or any other hardware store im sure.

Step one
I recommend removing the fuel pump fuse. Since i had a convertible and had the top down i decided to pull the fuse and run the car till it died. Then I moved on. I did not disconnect the battery but that is your choice. FIY Once you remove the top plugs from the top of the fuel hat you remove all power to the pump assembly.


Step 2
Locate the cover under the passengers seat. To remove the seat just pull up, it sits in clamps.




Step 3
once you remove the top stick any bolts you have in here (if you have a coupe, convertible)


Step 4
To remove this fitting you just push the green ish blue button and lift


Step 5
To remove this fitting you just need to stick two small flat head screw drivers and push out on both sides of the clip, Then lift up. If you struggle with this you can also remove the clip but doing it this way is easier.


Step 6
Remove the ring, its not super easy and can be stuck depending on your mileage. Mine took alot of hammering (smacked a screw driver with a rubber mallet). Remove the hoses first like i said in the last two steps. I forgot to take a photo after they were removed.


Step 7
Once the ring is removed lift the bucket cover up and remove this fitting. Again, just push on the outsides of the clips. If that doesnt work, just remove the clip (i had to do that on this one). Also i would use a small screw driver and remove the two wiring harnesses first (remeber what side they are on) if you have to remove that clip. The power harness blockes the clip from coming all the way out.


Step 8
Connect the fittings to the walbro GSL392 inline pump.


Step 9
Either solder, or cramp the wiring connections to the original wiring harness.




Step 10
Connect the 90 degree bundy on the pump end of the gates hose and the other fitting on the other end. (dont connect it to the fuel pump yet, just showing what it looks like)


Step 11
Connect the fitting new fitting on the orange hose if you reused your stock 90 degree one.


Step 12 (Reassembly, a little tricky)
Clamp the inline fuel pump to the orange hose bundy and the other bundy (connected to the gates hose) to the other end of the inline pump. Then put the inline pump in the tank, then put the bucket in the tank. Once you have the bucket in the tank, connect the 90 degree bundy to the top the oem fuel pump and put the fuel tank bucket top back on. Then reconnect the fittings, ring and wires and you all done.

If you forgot what wires go on what clip take a look here.


Since this inline pump is not e85 rated it could fail eventually. Lots of people use it for e85 and have had no issues that i've read. With the use of the bundy connectors it makes replacing these inline pumps very easy.

These photos were taken with my iphone 5, so some are not top quality. For the original sized photos you can find them here.
http://home.comcast.net/~mathew82284/walbro14.zip



For anyone looking for even more fuel, you can use the WALBRO-GCL624 fuel pump. Its rated at 330lph. Since it has beads at the end of the fittings on this pump you just connect the hose and clamp it on.
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  #1  
By AWTT335i on 08-03-2013, 11:13 PM
Nice write-up!
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  #2  
By buster84 on 08-05-2013, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWTT335i View Post
Nice write-up!
Thanks!
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  #3  
By danielg69 on 08-06-2013, 10:14 PM
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Why did you use these bundy fittings instead of the barbed that I usually see? I figured just buy one 90 degree barbed that screws on one end of the Walbro and leave the other one straight (from the install kit). That's more compact, one less part to buy, and 2 less connections since in the end the bundy connects to the fuel line on the barbed end. Does this make sense?
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  #4  
By buster84 on 08-07-2013, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielg69 View Post
Why did you use these bundy fittings instead of the barbed that I usually see? I figured just buy one 90 degree barbed that screws on one end of the Walbro and leave the other one straight (from the install kit). That's more compact, one less part to buy, and 2 less connections since in the end the bundy connects to the fuel line on the barbed end. Does this make sense?
I understand what your talking about, but my way makes it so much easier to replace if something goes wrong. This method also gives it a stock application feel since your using stock bundy connections for the install which people prefer (since they are proven effective).

The number 1 reason i wanted bundy connections was for the ease of removal/install when the pump goes bad. In a non e85 environment you wont have to worry about replacing them often, but when running between e30 to e85 one would end up replacing these at least once every year or two since there not rated for e85. Then again our stock pumps arn't either and they last pretty dam long on e85 lol.
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  #5  
By bmw335dude on 08-25-2013, 09:21 PM
This is a perfect cheap mod for full e85 or upgraded turbos! Thanks for the post!
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  #6  
By Lifted07Duramax on 08-25-2013, 09:28 PM
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Why this pump instead of what the 455 that most use?
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  #7  
By buster84 on 08-25-2013, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lifted07Duramax View Post
Why this pump instead of what the 455 that most use?
There are Pro's and Cons for both setups and I'm not here to deter anyone to use a certain method, so its really upto the person on what seems like the better deal to go with regarding price/modification. I'll go ahead and list what I've noticed between the three setups.

Walbro 455 e85

Pro's

1) It flows more fuel than an inline pump setup (600-800hp worth)
2) Its a nice replacement if you have a failing factory pump
3) You get a Year Warranty with it.
4) Its cheaper than a stock replacement setup at only $140 on ebay

Con's

1) It requires the stock basket to be modified and drilled.
2) People have had issues with the their custom fuel line hoses coming off the stock pump or venturi valve.
3) Requires more time to install it than a factory pump


Walbro Inline GSL392

Pro's

1) Simple install with oem connections.
2) Total cost is $120 with all parts (tad cheaper than the 455)
3) Replacing a dead pump is as simple as removing the bundy connectors and reconnecting them.
4) Its good for upto 500-600hp.
5) You don't have to modify anything in you tank, so if you oem pump goes out, you just pull the inline out and go in for warranty.
6) If the inline pump goes out you won't be stuck on the side of the road since your oem pump will still work.

Con's

1) Its not rated for e85 so if you plan to use that, its just something to know. People have used these for years with e85 and ive not heard of any failures yet.
2) It requires a little patience when reinstalling everything into the tank to make it all fit, but your overall install time will be minimal.
3) It does provide less flow than the 455 walbro e85 pump does and is only $20 cheaper overall, but (only $90 to replace them if they ever go out).

Walbro 455 e85 Sold by Shiv

Pro's

1) Provides more flow than the inline pump and e85 pump by its self.
2) Works with your oem pump, so you can pull it out if you need the stock pump replaced under warranty.
3) If the pump goes out you won't be stuck on the side of the road since your oem pump will still work.
4) Its a simple install just like the inline, except you get all parts from shiv and connects with stock connectors.
5) Is rated for e85, since its the 455 e85 pump installed in there special custom hardware to make it work inline.

Con's

1) Costs 5x as much as the Inline and Walbro setup.
2) Walbro made the pump for intank as the main pump, not as an inline. (not sure if this even matters, but good to know).
3) If you have to replace it down the road when it breaks, its very a very costly replacement.
Last edited by buster84; 08-25-2013 at 10:17 PM.
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  #8  
By washup on 09-04-2013, 08:46 AM
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Thanks for DYI.

Anyone using the WALBRO-GCL624 fuel pump instead of the GSL392? Is the installation the same?
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  #9  
By buster84 on 09-16-2013, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by washup View Post
Thanks for DYI.

Anyone using the WALBRO-GCL624 fuel pump instead of the GSL392? Is the installation the same?
I thought about installing it, but i'll wait till my current one breaks. With the WALBRO-GCL624 you would just use hose clamps on the pump area since bundy connectors wont fit on the WALBRO-GCL624.
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  #10  
By BADS335 on 09-18-2013, 03:09 PM
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Great write up.

What about making this pump work?

WSP330 - EL3M In-line Screw Pump 330LPH, High-Pressure (Pierburg P/N 7.00228.51)
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  #11  
By buster84 on 09-18-2013, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BADS335 View Post
Great write up.

What about making this pump work?

WSP330 - EL3M In-line Screw Pump 330LPH, High-Pressure (Pierburg P/N 7.00228.51)
Thats the same pump as this, WALBRO GCL624. I'm not sure why it has two different part numbers.

Its not much different other than not being able to use bundy connectors on the inline pump its self, just two hoses with hose clamps is all thats needed. I'm sure someone will test this out eventually.
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  #12  
By BADS335 on 09-19-2013, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buster84 View Post
Thats the same pump as this, WALBRO GCL624. I'm not sure why it has two different part numbers.

Its not much different other than not being able to use bundy connectors on the inline pump its self, just two hoses with hose clamps is all thats needed. I'm sure someone will test this out eventually.
Oh OK. But how to adapt it to work? The port sizes are different.
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  #13  
By buster84 on 09-24-2013, 10:28 PM
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I had received a question about the heat shrink, and it made me wonder and want to double check everything, so i decided to take the pump assembly out and take a look. After a few months everything held together just fine, nothing has melted and the heat shrink seems to do well With e85 as well as gasoline.

For those wondering what heat shrink I used. I bought this set from harbor freight.
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  #14  
By buster84 on 09-24-2013, 10:29 PM
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This is my assembly after a few months of e85 (first 2 weeks were 91)
Attached Images
 
Last edited by buster84; 09-24-2013 at 10:36 PM.
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  #15  
By Lifted07Duramax on 09-24-2013, 10:38 PM
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Have you done some logging? How much better do your numbers look now that you have added that in?
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  #16  
By buster84 on 09-24-2013, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lifted07Duramax View Post
Have you done some logging? How much better do your numbers look now that you have added that in?
Are you referring to fuel pressure or HP? If fuel pressure when i first did logging it was holding right around 72psi all the way to redline. I havn't done any logs since then. My laptop charger took a dump on me and I've yet to get it replaced. I wish i could log with my macbook pto (without buying parallels and windows), i hate windows 8. Ehh.
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  #17  
By buster84 on 10-11-2013, 01:36 PM
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I updated the picture in Step 9 since the last time i took it out i re-soldered the wires. I found it much easier to solder the two original wires side by side after tinning all the tips. Then i soldered the new wire to the other end of the original wire to for a T shape. After that was done I slipped my Marine heat shrink over the new wire and slid it down until it covered all the wires and used my heat gun on it. If you dont have a heat gun you can use a blow dryer.
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