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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - N54, 335i Serpentine Belt, Tensioner, Upper and Lower Pulley Replacement



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DIY - N54, 335i Serpentine Belt, Tensioner, Upper and Lower Pulley Replacement
Published by DarkNemesis
01-06-2015
Exclamation DIY - N54, 335i Serpentine Belt, Tensioner, Upper and Lower Pulley Replacement

DIY Guide: N54 335i Serpentine Belt, Tensioner, Upper and Lower Pulley Replacement
First DIY Guide for me
Just paying it back to the community for all the knowledge I learned here.
Being a Realtor; I don't mind getting my hands dirty.

I am by No Means a Mechanic, but had my share of experience owning my 2007 335i Sedan for over 2 years. So I take no responsibility for any errors, and your own fucks ups.....I take no responsibility for providing this guide, whether you follow it or not.

If you feel you can contribute to this guide; please by all means PM me, and I will edit as needed.
No Oil Cooler on my car.

Additional tasks I had to do at the same time. (not covered here.....but this gave me a lot of room to work with.)
Inspect Spark plugs.
OFHG (Oil Filter Housing Gasket).......2nd time after 11 months.
Removing Radiator Fan Only.

Required Tools.
Torx bits.
T20
T25
T50
T60

Sockets:
6mm
10mm - for belly Pan
1/2inch breaker bar, 15 inch or longer.
New Tensioner and Pulleys should come with new Bolts.....Mine did...and all OEM.

Total Cost of Parts to me at least:
Tensioner Part# 11287563927: $104.16
Belt Part# 11287628652: $50.11
Upper Pulley Part# 11287556251: $44.07
Lower Pulley Part# 11287557851: $44.07

Step 1. (Lots of DIYs) on how to do the following
Get your Car up on Ramp. or jacked up front end on jack stands.
Remove belly pan....15-17,,,,,10mm screws. (give you move light while working)
Remove engine cover. (optional.....I did....which means removing Remove charcoal filter and cowling.)

Work on a cold car so you don't have to worry about burning yourself on a hot engine.

Step 2: Remove 2 screws using T20 on Air Intake and remove air intake duct to Air Filter Box.
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Step 3:
6mm to loosen Hose clamp off of Air Filter Box and remove air duct.
Also turn and release the other pipe shown in picture below.
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Step 4:
2 Arrows on the Right on the picture, Simply unclip the Coolant hose and AC Line.....just pull it gently.
The Arrow on the left is optional but this clip is Latched.....press on the front to release the right side of the clip.
The 2 Circles are T25 that need to be removed. These hold the Air Duct. When removing, they will be accompanied by an metal grommet that is inserted in a rubber housing on the air duct support. you will have to pull them out.
Now the Air duct can move out of the way....just barely to give you access to the job at hand.
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Step 5: Extremely Important step:
Draw the Map of your Belt.....else you won't know how it goes back on.
here is what I drew.....Man I am an Artist.
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Step 6: Remove the Belt by turning the Tensioner T60 clockwise to release the Tension and Slide Belt off of Tensioner.....breaker Bar really Helps here.
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Step 7: Remove the Dust Caps off of the Tensioner and Both Pulleys by prying the Dust Caps off using Small Flat Head.
Place your other hand in front of each dust cap, else they will fly off. Also NOTE: all 3 are different sizes.....so note which goes where.

Step 8: Remove the Tensioner and Both Pulleys....you will need a T50 for all.
here are the Torque Specs officially from Dealer.
when installing the New Tensioner, DO NOT pull the lock pin, untill you have torqued The Tensioner and both pulleys. Finally using Breaker bar on a T60 remove the lock PIN and Mount your New Belt. (Don't forget the to Put the Dust Caps Back on).

Keep in mind and double check that the grove in the Belt is in the grove on each wheel.
Finally when you are ready to add the belt to the tensioner.....do it last.....alternator first, tensioner Last.

Reverse Order to complete.
Have a Friend or Wife at the Wheel and ask them to Start the Car once all is done. and advise them to turn off immediately if any issues arise.

DN
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  #1  
By FCobra94 on 01-06-2015, 11:05 AM
Great work!
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  #2  
By NGEE on 01-06-2015, 12:43 PM
Awesome DN - thanks man!
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  #3  
By djbobbless on 01-07-2015, 04:03 PM
I appreciate the DIY you made. I have these parts coming in today and needed this. Thanks!
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  #4  
By FrankoQ on 01-12-2015, 10:15 PM
just ordered the parts and will try this on the weekend. Thanks for the DIY.
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  #5  
By DarkNemesis on 01-13-2015, 03:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankoQ View Post
just ordered the parts and will try this on the weekend. Thanks for the DIY.
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbobbless View Post
I appreciate the DIY you made. I have these parts coming in today and needed this. Thanks!
If you guys have trouble....just Stop and PM me.
Personally I really think removing the Rad Fan gives you way more room.
but in order to do that....you have to:
drain coolant.
disconnect pipe from rad to OGH and small pipe to expansion bottle.
otherwise....the rad fan is blocked by these pipes.
you can't even reach the rad fan clips on the drivers side.
the 2nd clip is a bitch....rubber gromet....need a big screw driver wedged in it and turned 90.
then 2nd flat head or pry tool v hook type and pry apart the drivers side of the gromet......there is no other way.
even the shop manual says to "Make them apart"....LOL...or some words like that.

DN
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  #6  
By FrankoQ on 01-14-2015, 02:23 PM
Thanks for the offer. My parts come friday and I'll do the surgery on Saturday.
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  #7  
By DarkNemesis on 01-14-2015, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankoQ View Post
Thanks for the offer. My parts come friday and I'll do the surgery on Saturday.
This converter helped me.
http://www.convertunits.com/from/N+m/to/ft+lb
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  #8  
By FrankoQ on 01-18-2015, 09:50 PM
A friend ended up doing this for me but it was extremely easy. This DIY helped. Thanks again!
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  #9  
By DarkNemesis on 01-19-2015, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankoQ View Post
A friend ended up doing this for me but it was extremely easy. This DIY helped. Thanks again!
Glad it helped....just paying forward.
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  #10  
By Sample on 01-31-2015, 04:54 AM
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On those torque specs in the pic, which is which? For the Tensioner, Upper, and lower pulleys?
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  #11  
By NewToBeamer on 01-31-2015, 10:31 AM
This DIY is awesome I gave it a try yesterday along with a radiator fan diy and it was easy btw I'm a beginner i'll probably have to pull up a DIY to change a light bulb😂 the only problem i had was releasing the tension from the belt it was very tight and idk if its just my car but a T30 worked better than a T25 on the air duct step
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  #12  
By Fariedk on 01-31-2015, 12:11 PM
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Great Write Up
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  #13  
By Fariedk on 01-31-2015, 12:11 PM
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Great Write UP
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  #14  
By DarkNemesis on 01-31-2015, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewToBeamer View Post
This DIY is awesome I gave it a try yesterday along with a radiator fan diy and it was easy btw I'm a beginner i'll probably have to pull up a DIY to change a light bulb😂 the only problem i had was releasing the tension from the belt it was very tight and idk if its just my car but a T30 worked better than a T25 on the air duct step
I have a bit set from harbor freight.
And I have full master craft set from Canadian tire.

Believe it or not the master craft t25 is not a t25.....imagine that.
So there it is.
I confirmed it by 2 local shops.....lol.

As for releasing tensioner....use at least a 15" long breaker bar....else it is tough.

DN
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  #15  
By DarkNemesis on 01-31-2015, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sample View Post
On those torque specs in the pic, which is which? For the Tensioner, Upper, and lower pulleys?
On the tensioner it is 40nm.
On both pulleys it is 38nm.

Use the converter link in one of the posts above to convert to lb-ft.

DN
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  #16  
By Sample on 01-31-2015, 09:01 PM
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I think it's a T27 for the air duct.

Also, I don't think you need to pull the grommet out. Just unscrew and leave the grommet/screw there. The screw is attached to the grommet and won't fall out.
Last edited by Sample; 02-01-2015 at 02:27 AM.
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  #17  
By DarkNemesis on 02-01-2015, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sample View Post
I think it's a T27 for the air duct.

Also, I don't think you need to pull the grommet out. Just unscrew and leave the grommet/screw there. The screw is attached to the grommet and won't fall out.
Because it can be pushed out and leaving it does create a chance that it will fall out then best to pull it out.
But as you stated it can be a personal decision.

T27 is a very unusual size for BMW.
Also....WTF..... You saying the front air duct screws as noted in the first picture of this DIY are T27.......is bigger than the T25 on the RAD.
I think you have an incorrect screw there.

DN
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  #18  
By Sample on 02-01-2015, 12:32 PM
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I meant for the part that has the grommet. T25 and T30 are mentioned above but I had to use a T27
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  #19  
By DarkNemesis on 02-01-2015, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sample View Post
I meant for the part that has the grommet. T25 and T30 are mentioned above but I had to use a T27
I will keep a note of it.
Will not edit at the moment, let's see if we get a second on it.

Also, I followed a few other guides here in my work....other DIY of different things.
They all stated t25 for those gromet screws.
If you find an OFHG DIY on N54, there is an anchor screw T25 on the charge pipe.
It is the same screw as the ones you mentioned.
It also notes T25.

DN
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  #20  
By ucdbiendog on 02-11-2015, 11:06 PM
this is an awesome write up, i will need to be doing this soon.
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  #21  
By Sgop335 on 02-21-2015, 01:20 PM
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Great write up. Been thinking to take it a shop, but now looks like i will try myself. Not going to remove the rad fan, hope thats ok.
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