Ok, after a week of driving on my new apparently too wide shoes, I was tired of the rubbing. It wasnt happening all the time but it was a hassle to keep dodging bumps and grooves on a daily basis.

I finally found a place that had the eastwood fender roller around me. They let me borrow it for $30. I thought about investing in one for $200+ but figured I should attempt it first and see how it goes.

Anyway, for all those that want to know, Im running 19x9.5 wheels in the rear with et30 and 275.30.19 General Exclaims.

*-Denotes important safety point you dont want to skip over and I take no responsibility if you are an idiot.

*First off, you need to be on flat ground. Youre going to be lifting up the rear and if youre on an incline, theres nothing to stop your front wheels from rolling. Please do not attempt this any further if you dont feel comfortable with this.

Next you want to make sure you have two jackstands. I do not recommend using multiple boards of wood or bricks, youre just asking for trouble.

Now you can go about removing the rear wheels in two different ways. You can loosen the nuts while the car is still on the ground, or you can do it while the car is up in the air. If you choose the latter, youll need to make sure the parking brake is on so the wheels dont spin. However, youll need the parking brake off in order for the tool to move back and forth. I find the first choice to be the more efficient and quicker.

So, with the parking brake off and the rear lugs loosened, you want to slide your jack under the back of the car so that the pad is under the rear diff.

*Be careful when jacking as you wont have that much room and you will hit your bumper if youre not careful-patience is a virtue here. Youll be doing incrimental pumps to get the car in the air and once its up a few inches youll be able to get the jack handle moving much better.

Once the tires are cleanly off the ground, place the jackstands under the rear side jacking points of the car. Make sure that the jackstands are high enough so that when you lower the car, the tires dont rest back on the ground. *SLOWLY lower the jack so the car places itself correctly on the jackstands. You will hear creaking and moaning and more than likely the jackstands will move. DO NOT lower all the way, keep checking on the jackstands to make sure the car is placed properly on them. Once you have confirmed that, slowly lower the car until all the weight is on the jackstands.

*Keep the jack firmly placed under the diff as a secondary safety precaution if the jackstands fail.

Now remove the wheels and place the tool onto the hub. The tool I borrowed had a black ring inside that kept it from going onto the hub correctly. I just knocked it out with a flat head screwdriver. I then used my OEM lugs(only 4 of them) to hold the tool onto the hub.

Best thing to do is inspect the inside of the wheel well to see where the tires may be rubbing the most. Youll want to do that so you know where to focus most of your rolling.

*The hub rotates in a perfect circle, your wheel well doesnt. You do not want to run the roller back and forth along the whole wheel well. You want to do this in increments.

I started from the factory indent in the front part of the wheel well. Make sure the roller is placed correctly in the middle and at the right angle.

*Do not place intense pressure with the roller immediately. You want to start out slight and keep adding pressure gently.

Do about 4 inches at a time and then move onto the next part. Its at this critical juncture that you may think to yourself "this is easy, and I can do the whole thing in a few swipes, 4 inches a time is too slow". STOP. This is not something you can rush, unless you like cracked paint or a dented out fender.

You will see the fender pushing out as you keep applying pressure. You are doing two things here; flattening the inner lip, and actually moving the fender out. Because both things are happening at the same time, this is why you want to take your time.

I was able to do both fenders in about 20 mins each. The whole job took about an hour(including jacking, removing wheels etc.). I honestly think this is how long you should spend on it every time you do it. This is not a job you can rush through or perfect in 5 mins by doing it multiple times.

You will also notice that I didnt use a heat gun. While through all my research it seemed that it was a necessity, it was also 85°+ out and, well, I was just too lazy to go buy one. If you do it slow enough and careful enough you wont have any paint cracking issues. That being said, If I were to work on other peoples cars I would get one just for my insurance benefit. I saw one at Pepboys today for $19.99 so they arent wallet busters.

Anyway, heres the order of the pics.
1. Jacking point at the rear under the diff
2. Jackstand placement once the car is lifted
3. The black center ring I popped out of the tool
4. A picture of the inside of the wheel well to show where I was hitting. I couldnt tell if the black stuff on the liner was just overspray from my tireshine or if I was actually hitting it.
5. Placement of the tool on the inner fender lip
6. What the inside looks like after youre done rolling. The lip should be vertical and you can see the liner folding in to meet it.
7. The little amount that the fender gets wider by from the outside
8. You can see from above how it fits the tire better

If you have any questions or comments, feel free to post.

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10 Audi S4
13 Audi S6(on order)
Audi Brand Specialist @ Princeton