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      09-05-2013, 11:06 AM   #1
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Ohlins R/T with Stock Top Hats

Getting some Ohlins R/T coilovers and wanted some opinions on if I should use Vorschlag camber plates or stock top hats? With stock top hats (and nipple removed), you get -1.0 camber but with M3 control arms, like I have, you are around -1.5 camber. I currently have a BC setup with camber plates and I'm at -1.2 so I don't see the benefit in running camber plates unless there's something I'm missing. Do the camber plates add any other benefit besides camber over the stock top hats? Like better bearings, etc? Not to mention with stock top hats, it's a PITA to get the top hat nut to torque spec without the shock body moving. On my buddy's, we put it to spec at 46ft lbs and made all kinds of noise.

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      09-06-2013, 03:53 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
Getting some Ohlins R/T coilovers and wanted some opinions on if I should use Vorschlag camber plates or stock top hats? With stock top hats (and nipple removed), you get -1.0 camber but with M3 control arms, like I have, you are around -1.5 camber. I currently have a BC setup with camber plates and I'm at -1.2 so I don't see the benefit in running camber plates unless there's something I'm missing. Do the camber plates add any other benefit besides camber over the stock top hats? Like better bearings, etc? Not to mention with stock top hats, it's a PITA to get the top hat nut to torque spec without the shock body moving. On my buddy's, we put it to spec at 46ft lbs and made all kinds of noise.

Thanks

The oe strut mounts deflect under load due to the rubber bushing. Camber plates will reduce the suspension geometry changes that occur under load. But they can more maintenance and noisier. If it's just a street car and you can get -1.5d camber up front with the oe mounts, they're fine.
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      09-06-2013, 07:07 AM   #3
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...Or you can go with Dinan static camber plates which are non-adjustable but give you extra -0.7 negative camber compared to stock.

I am highly considering those for when I upgrade my suspension.

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      09-06-2013, 07:23 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vasillalov View Post
...Or you can go with Dinan static camber plates which are non-adjustable but give you extra -0.7 negative camber compared to stock.

I am highly considering those for when I upgrade my suspension.

so these just go over the stock to hats correct?
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      09-06-2013, 07:27 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
The oe strut mounts deflect under load due to the rubber bushing. Camber plates will reduce the suspension geometry changes that occur under load. But they can more maintenance and noisier. If it's just a street car and you can get -1.5d camber up front with the oe mounts, they're fine.
Will this effect ride quality? I use my car for mainly 1/4 mile and a bit of spirited driving nothing heavy. I just hate sacrificing handling when I bought really good coilovers.
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      09-06-2013, 08:05 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
so these just go over the stock to hats correct?
If I am not mistaken you need to remove struts, disassemble, drill out/remove stock studs in the top hat, then bolt these on. Not a trivial install by any means. Dinan lists 3.5 hrs labor to install.
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      09-06-2013, 08:15 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsalida View Post
If I am not mistaken you need to remove struts, disassemble, drill out/remove stock studs in the top hat, then bolt these on. Not a trivial install by any means. Dinan lists 3.5 hrs labor to install.
I would say 20 mins at most...I can remove front struts on OEM car 30 mins. This will be easy...going to go buy them now. I believe -1.5 is what some cars can get with camber maxed out on OEM hats and M3 control arms...I am would be about -1.2 (was when I had stock hats. So I am guessing with these parts and OEM hats you would be at -1.5 to -1.9.
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      09-06-2013, 08:37 AM   #8
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I'm running -2.2/-2.3* front with allignment pins removed, M3 control arms and Dinan plates installed.

Dinan plates produce no noise but it'll raise the height by 1/3", so I use lower spring perch to compensate this.

Replace new top hats while you are at it.
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      09-06-2013, 09:53 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91Octane View Post
I'm running -2.2/-2.3* front with allignment pins removed, M3 control arms and Dinan plates installed.

Dinan plates produce no noise but it'll raise the height by 1/3", so I use lower spring perch to compensate this.

Replace new top hats while you are at it.
I have new top hats coming to, I only need -1. 5 camber...I may not need camber plates then.
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      09-06-2013, 10:18 AM   #10
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I made -1.5/1.6* with M3 control arms and pin removed before installing the plates.
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      09-06-2013, 10:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91Octane View Post
I made -1.5/1.6* with M3 control arms and pin removed before installing the plates.
That is the exact info I needed!
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      09-06-2013, 12:40 PM   #12
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Re dinan plates: I actually wish I had gone that route instead of GC plates when I had my KW's installed since my car is a street car.
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      09-06-2013, 12:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976
Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
The oe strut mounts deflect under load due to the rubber bushing. Camber plates will reduce the suspension geometry changes that occur under load. But they can more maintenance and noisier. If it's just a street car and you can get -1.5d camber up front with the oe mounts, they're fine.
Will this effect ride quality? I use my car for mainly 1/4 mile and a bit of spirited driving nothing heavy. I just hate sacrificing handling when I bought really good coilovers.
My GC plates don't affect ride quality but they've clunked a couple times when I didn't creep over a speed bump.
I'd go with oem strut mounts and the Dinan camber plates and shoot for -1.5-2 d camber up front. You'll love the added camber.
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      09-06-2013, 01:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
I would say 20 mins at most...I can remove front struts on OEM car 30 mins. This will be easy...going to go buy them now. I believe -1.5 is what some cars can get with camber maxed out on OEM hats and M3 control arms...I am would be about -1.2 (was when I had stock hats. So I am guessing with these parts and OEM hats you would be at -1.5 to -1.9.
Let us know how that goes.
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      09-07-2013, 09:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
That is the exact info I needed!
Trust me: you need more negative camber. I am already at -1.5 negative camber and the car is still pushing in corners and wearing the outsides of the tires more.

Get the Dinan plates, you won't regret it.
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      09-07-2013, 09:27 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91Octane View Post
I'm running -2.2/-2.3* front with allignment pins removed, M3 control arms and Dinan plates installed.

Dinan plates produce no noise but it'll raise the height by 1/3", so I use lower spring perch to compensate this.

Replace new top hats while you are at it.
Perfect info right there!
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      09-07-2013, 10:34 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
My GC plates don't affect ride quality but they've clunked a couple times when I didn't creep over a speed bump.
I'd go with oem strut mounts and the Dinan camber plates and shoot for -1.5-2 d camber up front. You'll love the added camber.
I am at 1.2 and it handles prefect. Maybe I have more camber up front than I think I do.
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      09-07-2013, 10:37 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vasillalov View Post
Trust me: you need more negative camber. I am already at -1.5 negative camber and the car is still pushing in corners and wearing the outsides of the tires more.

Get the Dinan plates, you won't regret it.
I got inside tire wear with 1.2 but that could be the Nitto tires I used to have.
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      09-07-2013, 02:30 PM   #19
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^ That or you don't corner hard much. If you're mostly freeway cruising -1-1.5 d is good. I'm at -1.9 d on PSS and no inside tire wear noticed.
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      09-07-2013, 02:50 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
^ That or you don't corner hard much. If you're mostly freeway cruising -1-1.5 d is good. I'm at -1.9 d on PSS and no inside tire wear noticed.
My car is street, and mainly 1/4 mile. The difference between 1.5 and 1.9 is so small....that is what my rear is set to.
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      09-07-2013, 04:36 PM   #21
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Aah, in this case you should be fine without the camber plates from Dinan.

My car is mostly a road course bruiser and the threads on the outside of the tires are already showing while the middle and the inside have 7/32 of thread left.

I need to lower the car on coilovers and get Dinan plates.
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      09-08-2013, 06:05 PM   #22
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Fwiw I have Ground Control Race Plates and they don't make noise. Assuming they are installed properly they should be relatively quiet. I do love how direct the steering became after I installed my suspension and three out the stock top hats for the camberplates.
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