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      11-06-2013, 07:35 PM   #1
nick380
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Question I have a sealed off trunk, how to add sub?

I've been searching everywhere, and some say I could add one because of the air vents under the back windows leading into the trunk, but then others state i cannot. I own a 2007 BMW 335i, with no folding seats nor hole to allow sub to play through. The sub and amp i'm trying to add is the JL 12W3v3 and an Alpine MRV-M500 Mono Amp. Should I buy a corner loaded enclosure or have a sealed enclosure facing towards the trunk or facing towards the back seats...I'm terribly paraniod that I will get no bass from the sub, and have to sell it.
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      11-06-2013, 08:29 PM   #2
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Cut a hole through the ski pass and mount the sub free air. That's what I did and I've never looked back. 12w3 may not be ideal for that application though. 12w6 or w7 would rock your world.

I have since carpeted the baffle so it looks a lot better, but I can't find the pic.
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      11-06-2013, 09:49 PM   #3
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Is there a guide on how to do this? Equipment required and everything
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      11-06-2013, 09:51 PM   #4
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I cut a hole in mine too, very easy!
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      11-07-2013, 10:46 AM   #5
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I was thinking trying out this custom enclosure http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-BMW-3-S...1a54af&vxp=mtr the guy is well known around different forums and makes quality products using MDF for the enclosure. I emailed him and e states I would still hear the sub because it sends out low frequencies and those will go through the sealed trunk. What do you guys think??
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      11-07-2013, 11:23 AM   #6
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I had the zenclosures box a few years ago with 2 alpine swr 1223d's and a pdx m12. I also had the same non folding seats no ski pass. IMO the trunk is too well sealed. You'll get alot of rattles and very little bass. If your going with a single 12 a corner enclosure is more efficient.

Since then I've replaced the rear seat and now I have folding seats and a ski pass. I have 2 12" Alpine 12d4's powered by an Audioque 2200d. They are facing the front of the car in a prefabbed ported box, and I built a custom baffle to seal off the box from the trunk. Now I have no rattles and plenty of bass.
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      11-07-2013, 11:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw325i View Post
I had the zenclosures box a few years ago with 2 alpine swr 1223d's and a pdx m12. I also had the same non folding seats no ski pass. IMO the trunk is too well sealed. You'll get alot of rattles and very little bass. If your going with a single 12 a corner enclosure is more efficient.

Since then I've replaced the rear seat and now I have folding seats and a ski pass. I have 2 12" Alpine 12d4's powered by an Audioque 2200d. They are facing the front of the car in a prefabbed ported box, and I built a custom baffle to seal off the box from the trunk. Now I have no rattles and plenty of bass.
Hmm what about creating a ski pass like the other above had stated to a create an IB setup. Is there a DIY guide for IB?
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      11-07-2013, 12:06 PM   #8
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Hmm what about creating a ski pass like the other above had stated to a create an IB setup. Is there a DIY guide for IB?
That would work well. I'm sure there is a DIY but its fairly simple you just need a baffle mounted on the rear seat. A 12" fi ib3 would work well.
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      11-07-2013, 12:09 PM   #9
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That would work well. I'm sure there is a DIY but its fairly simple you just need a baffle mounted on the rear seat. A 12" fi ib3 would work well.
How much would that run me and where could I get such material? Sorry for all the questions quite beginner at this sort of thing besides the actual wiring of the amp and sub.

*Edit*
I already have purchased a 12W3v3. Would this work well too for the IB?
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      11-07-2013, 03:56 PM   #10
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How much would that run me and where could I get such material? Sorry for all the questions quite beginner at this sort of thing besides the actual wiring of the amp and sub.

*Edit*
I already have purchased a 12W3v3. Would this work well too for the IB?
It's not designed for IB but it would probably work as long as you don't give it too much power.

You'll need to cut out a baffle out of mdf, particle board, or even birch plywood. You should be able to get smaller pieces at Home Depot or Lowes since you don't really need a full sheet. Cut out a square that is bigger than the ski pass opening and then cut a circle out for the sub using a jigsaw or a router with a circle jig. You'll need to figure out how to attach the baffle to the seats, use weatherstripping to seal it off. Depending on the thickness of the wood and the xmax of the sub, you might need to make a spacer so the cone doesn't hit the seat. If you have a router it's very easy to do.
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      11-07-2013, 04:07 PM   #11
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Where would I be able to get spacers, and should I get a grille for the sub?

Thanks again for the help!

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It's not designed for IB but it would probably work as long as you don't give it too much power.

You'll need to cut out a baffle out of mdf, particle board, or even birch plywood. You should be able to get smaller pieces at Home Depot or Lowes since you don't really need a full sheet. Cut out a square that is bigger than the ski pass opening and then cut a circle out for the sub using a jigsaw or a router with a circle jig. You'll need to figure out how to attach the baffle to the seats, use weatherstripping to seal it off. Depending on the thickness of the wood and the xmax of the sub, you might need to make a spacer so the cone doesn't hit the seat. If you have a router it's very easy to do.
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      11-07-2013, 05:37 PM   #12
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Where would I be able to get spacers, and should I get a grille for the sub?

Thanks again for the help!
No need for a spacer, the baffle is the spacer. You just need to make the round cut-out the correct size, and then mount the sub from the back. I'll take some pics of my set-up to help you understand better.
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      11-07-2013, 06:49 PM   #13
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Ahh okay makes sense. I can use the information provided by JL Audio to cut the diameter for the Sub, I saw a data sheet for information needed for making an enclosure. This is gonna be fun

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No need for a spacer, the baffle is the spacer. You just need to make the round cut-out the correct size, and then mount the sub from the back. I'll take some pics of my set-up to help you understand better.
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      11-07-2013, 11:51 PM   #14
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No need for a spacer, the baffle is the spacer. You just need to make the round cut-out the correct size, and then mount the sub from the back. I'll take some pics of my set-up to help you understand better.
I wouldn't be so sure of that. With some subwoofers you probably don't need a spacer, but if you are using 3/4" wood and you had a sub that had over 19mm of xmax the cone would hit the seat. That's not taking the surround into consideration, really you have less than 19mm. Using 1" wood or two 3/4" pieces stacked you'd have more room for higher xmax subs.
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      11-08-2013, 12:10 AM   #15
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Quote:
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I wouldn't be so sure of that. With some subwoofers you probably don't need a spacer, but if you are using 3/4" wood and you had a sub that had over 19mm of xmax the cone would hit the seat. That's not taking the surround into consideration, really you have less than 19mm. Using 1" wood or two 3/4" pieces stacked you'd have more room for higher xmax subs.
I'm running an SPG-555 this way, back-mounted to 3/4 MDF butted up against the trunk. There's a 1/2" gasket made of exercise matt for better sealing, so that totals 31 odd mm gap from the mounting ring to the seat, a little less since the gasket compresses. With 22mm excursion, I don't have any problem.
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      11-08-2013, 07:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
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I wouldn't be so sure of that. With some subwoofers you probably don't need a spacer, but if you are using 3/4" wood and you had a sub that had over 19mm of xmax the cone would hit the seat. That's not taking the surround into consideration, really you have less than 19mm. Using 1" wood or two 3/4" pieces stacked you'd have more room for higher xmax subs.


But I am sure. The cone is recessed from the mounting flange by a good 10-15 mm as you see in the picture. At full x-max perhaps the cone would protrude a few mm beyond the frame, that's about it. The sub would reach its mechanical limits long before it ever got close to touching the seat.

One part of the anatomy of the W3 bothers me though for this application. See the tapered flange? - It will make top mounting a bit tricky. You would definitely need to use plenty of foam gasket material to create a decent mechanical fit to the baffle and to ensure there are no leaks.
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      11-08-2013, 08:49 AM   #17
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Here's how mine is mounted:
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      11-08-2013, 09:07 AM   #18
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Here's how mine is mounted:
Ohhhh ok that makes complete sense now! is the last image a photo of the cabin looking at the baffle board and sub, also were you able to find out where you obtained the carpet from? Thanks again for the help!
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      11-08-2013, 09:54 AM   #19
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But I am sure. The cone is recessed from the mounting flange by a good 10-15 mm as you see in the picture. At full x-max perhaps the cone would protrude a few mm beyond the frame, that's about it. The sub would reach its mechanical limits long before it ever got close to touching the seat.

One part of the anatomy of the W3 bothers me though for this application. See the tapered flange? - It will make top mounting a bit tricky. You would definitely need to use plenty of foam gasket material to create a decent mechanical fit to the baffle and to ensure there are no leaks.
Well maybe the w3 fits, without the gasket it would be close though. And if you were to use a different sub like say the fi ib3 which is actually designed for IB the xmax is much higher, it's 30mm. Something like that would need a spacer.

Edit I didn't see the picture of the w3 on its own before I wrote this post. The surround and cone are recessed like you said so there should be plenty of room.
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      11-08-2013, 10:34 AM   #20
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Ohhhh ok that makes complete sense now! is the last image a photo of the cabin looking at the baffle board and sub, also were you able to find out where you obtained the carpet from? Thanks again for the help!
Yeah but the picture did not come out right. I'll try again without flash.
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      11-08-2013, 11:19 AM   #21
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Yeah but the picture did not come out right. I'll try again without flash.
Okay sounds good! Looks clean though from what I can tell!
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      11-11-2013, 12:01 PM   #22
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Okay so I spent all Saturday getting supplies and setting up the sub! Here's how it looks ( don't mind the rigidness for now, I will be editing as time goes to make it look nicer!). It sounds amazing just as stated from earlier posts. Bass hits clean and no crazy rattles at all license plat doesn't move an inch when the bass is going!
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