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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > All-Wheel-Drive (Xi / xDrive) Talk > KW V1 Install Impressions



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      12-22-2013, 10:03 PM   #1
jwzimm
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KW V1 Install Impressions

Hey all,

I just finished a marathon install on my e92 335i X-drive and figured I would give some impressions.

First, I had posted earlier when I ordered the kit. You can see that thread here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913742

I relied heavily on the installation video from ECS tuning:


There was one thing that I ran in to that was not in the that video though. There is a headlight level sensor on the drivers side rear swing arm. I did not notice this until it popped loose from the chassis. Fortunately I was able fix the little nutplate/insert and got it re-installed.

I started my install at 9am and I wrapped everything up (including height adjustment and a couple drives) at 5pm. It would have been so much easier if I had a lift but I had to make do with a jack and jackstands.

The fronts were a pretty big pain. Once you get the three nuts on the top of the strut assy off the whole shooting match falls down and gets very ungainly. The video makes it seem like a single person can do this. Bull$^&%! We did find it made things much easier to put a jack under the hub carrier as you loosen the nuts. You can then lower the assy slowly and controlled.

I am getting my alignment done tomorrow and it does need it. The steering wheel is cocked to the right a bit going straight and I think my toe in the rear is pretty fooked.

As for ride quality, I have only done a short drive so far. I will say it is much firmer than the stock suspension. That said it isn't too bad and I like the more communication I get from the road. I need to be careful about ground clearance now. I had gotten used to the SUV ride height so now the speed bumps in the complex are pretty harsh. :-/

I will update with impressions after my alignment. I will say that unless you really enjoy working on your car this would probably be better left to a shop though.

Now I am going to go crash on the couch and relax.
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      12-23-2013, 03:17 PM   #2
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Where the pics?!?!

Nice work on doing the install yourself. This is one where I didn't even think twice about having a shop install my V1's for me!
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      12-23-2013, 05:30 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zipstic
Where the pics?!?!

Nice work on doing the install yourself. This is one where I didn't even think twice about having a shop install my V1's for me!
Lol. You're lucky I got that post off last night. I was so beat I just crashed. I'm getting it aligned right now (def needed it). I will get some photos soon. Need to get her cleaned up too. It is the middle of winter after all. :-p
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      12-23-2013, 11:28 PM   #4
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Just got the alignment. I did honk up the camber on the right side but I knew that. The car rides great now. Just have to wait until the weather is decent to try some spirited driving.
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      12-26-2013, 04:05 PM   #5
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Love my v1s. Btw the front suspension install can be done by one person without a lift. I have done it.
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      12-26-2013, 04:38 PM   #6
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Well it may not be impossible but it is pretty tricky. Having a second person there helps a lot.
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      12-26-2013, 04:44 PM   #7
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Awesome! Can't wait to see the pics.
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      12-26-2013, 09:04 PM   #8
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Hows the ride quality ?
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      12-27-2013, 01:22 PM   #9
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The ride is definitely more firm. I wouldn't say it is harsh though, more informative I would say. I am having to get used to the reduced ride height but that is expected as well.
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      12-28-2013, 07:00 PM   #10
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Help

I am trying to install my xdrive but I can't get the tire assembly to drop out far enough to slide the strut out of the knuckle.
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      12-28-2013, 07:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitjt View Post
I am trying to install my xdrive but I can't get the tire assembly to drop out far enough to slide the strut out of the knuckle.
You will not be able to get the strut out of the knuckle with the strut still in the wheel well. You need to get the top of the strut out of the wheel well first and then spread the knuckle and slide the strut out. Watch the ECS tuning video in the first post. He makes it seem easier than it is but that is what you have to do. Make sure to watch for the connections for the brake sensors and brake lines so you don't break them. I do hope you loosened the control arm bolts so the control arms can swing free. Then you just have to push with a good amount of force to get the whole assembly to drop as low as possible. Then VERY CAREFULLY work the top of the strut out of the well. I did have to remove the fender liner around the strut so I could get it out too.

Hope that helps.
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      12-28-2013, 07:37 PM   #12
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I think I did but how many control arm bolts are there? You just loosen them you didn't have to take tie rods or control arms anything completely off.
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      12-28-2013, 08:11 PM   #13
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There are two control arms. Do not do anything with the steering tie rods! That can royally screw up your alignment to the point you can't drive it to the shop for your alignment following the install.

Yes, you just loosen the bolts/nuts on the control arms at the chassis connection point. That should allow them to swing free once the strut is loose.

Seriously, watch the ECS video closely. It is very thorough and covers almost everything you need to do to complete this install.
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      12-28-2013, 08:52 PM   #14
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My wheel well liners are two parts did you have to take both out to get access to control bolts? I have watched and it just looks so different from my x drive.
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      12-28-2013, 10:19 PM   #15
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The video is different but gives you the main details. You only need to remove the small liner at the rear bottom of the well and the rear section of liner. I did not need to remove the front section of the liner.
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      12-29-2013, 12:55 PM   #16
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Thanks for the help got one more question is that a sensor wrench and Allen key when tightening the strut nut?
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      12-29-2013, 03:07 PM   #17
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So the way I tightened it was with a 13/16 spark plug socket and a long allen key socket for my torque wrench. You have to either reuse the stock strut nut or get a new one from the dealer though. The nut that comes with the KW's is a 22mm which the 13/16 socket won't work with (only fits a 21mm). I used a wrench to turn the spark plug socket while holding the strut with the allen socket/torque wrench. Be sure to set your torque wrench to loosen (you are countering the tightening of the nut). This way you can torque the nut properly.

I did have an issue though. I set my torque wrench to 47 ft-lbs. The allen hole in the top of the strut ended up stripping out before the wrench clicked though. I looked at it and it looked like the hole was poorly broached which caused the allen hole to fail before final torque. It felt tight so I am not worried. I will need an impact gun to get the nut back off in the future though. Just go slow with the tightening and make certain you have the right allen key for the strut.
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      12-31-2013, 04:02 PM   #18
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On the rears did you take the metal bell like housing out and just put the kW spring perch into the hole?
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      12-31-2013, 04:12 PM   #19
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You have to take the metal cup out. It specifies this in the KW instructions. There is no way the boss in the spring perch would fit into the hole with this cup still in. Plus adjusting the perch would be damn near impossible.

See this thread: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=869277&page=2

No offense intended but have you read the instructions and the various threads on here?
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      12-31-2013, 07:34 PM   #20
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Lol yes, but I understand your concern. I ask more to verify what I am doing or have done......the problem I am having is when I adjust the spring perch threaded ring the perch turns as well but only on one side. If I pull down on the spring it will spin just fine.
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      12-31-2013, 08:29 PM   #21
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Yeah, that can happen. According to KW you are only supposed to adjust the rear perches off the car. I didn't have to adjust mine at all once I installed them so I haven't tried. You can try and put some penetrating lubricant (WD-40 or PB Blaster) on the threads of the adjuster. This should allow the adjuster to spin a little easier. If not you may be stuck with compressing the spring or some other method.

This is one thing I don't like about this kit actually. I have seen in other kits where they broach an allen key hole in the center of the adjuster base. This allows you to insert an allen key into the base so you can hold it while you turn the adjuster ring.
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      12-31-2013, 09:30 PM   #22
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Good to know, thanks again for all the help.
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