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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > Installation of “Audio-System” drop-in speaker kit for E90/E91



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      09-12-2008, 06:21 PM   #1
rkoelewijn
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Installation of “Audio-System” drop-in speaker kit for E90/E91

Inspired by a number of forum members DIY audio upgrades and reading the installation manual of the Alpine Hifi retrofit kit, I ventured in my own DIY project.
I started looking into the SWS-8 path with a 4” compo set. After buying two SWS-8 speakers and beginning modifying the “under the seat” speaker housing I came to the conclusion this was not the way for me.
The currently only available speaker kit specific for the E90/E91is the “Audio System X—ION 200 BMW” The kit replaces the sub and mid speakers and adds a tweeter. To mount the tweeter you also have to buy the window frame covers with speaker grill.
The kit is market as a drop-in kit, but the drop-in only applies to mounting the SUB and MID speakers.


SUB speaker


MID speaker

The tweeter is too big to just click into the speaker holder, however the foam part which is part of the window frame covers will hold the speaker in place.


Tweeter

As for the installation of the filter no guidelines are given how to accomplish this. It’s up to customer to be creative. I have chosen to wrap the filter into foam so it will not rattle in the door and I used “Velcro tape manager” to fasten the wrap onto the door panel.



My biggest disappointment was how you have to connect the kit. To connect the subs you need to use small fork connectors. I routed 12AWG speaker cables to the subs. The small fork connectors look puny in comparison to the not very heavy gauge cable.



For connecting the filters in the doors you have to cut of the original connector. This was for me not an option. I have chosen to custom build a “connector”. The original connector is based on a 0.1” spaced socket with 2 contacts. I used 0.1” spaced header, soldered the filter cables on two pins, pulled the pins from the header and used shrink tube to isolate them.



When I installed the panels back I inserted the pins into the original connector and used tape to secure them. I have no idea this solution will endure the test of time. I try to find out how you can route a new speaker cable into the door, because the original cable is a small gauge cable.
I have more pictures and larger versions for you viewing pleasure.

http://www.pbase.com/rkoelewijn/audi...m_xion_200_bmw

Roberto
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      09-12-2008, 07:16 PM   #2
Technic
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How it sounds and what type of OEM sound system does your car have?
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      09-13-2008, 01:08 AM   #3
rkoelewijn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
How it sounds and what type of OEM sound system does your car have?
I have the standard stereo system (6 speakers powered by the HU). After the installation of the kit and not ready installing my amplifier I connected only the door speakers of the kit to the HU. This improves the sound already because of the tweeters and the more capable mid speakers. For me the tweeters are too agressive but this will be taken care off during fine tuning.
After the installation of the amplifier I have connected the complete kit and now I have bass which supplement the mids nicely. Of course the bass is not capable of setting off your neighbours car alarm.
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      09-14-2008, 07:57 AM   #4
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Nice find.

I like things that fit without cutting/hacking.
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      09-14-2008, 05:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkoelewijn View Post
I have the standard stereo system (6 speakers powered by the HU). After the installation of the kit and not ready installing my amplifier I connected only the door speakers of the kit to the HU. This improves the sound already because of the tweeters and the more capable mid speakers. For me the tweeters are too agressive but this will be taken care off during fine tuning.
After the installation of the amplifier I have connected the complete kit and now I have bass which supplement the mids nicely. Of course the bass is not capable of setting off your neighbours car alarm.

you have to cut the blue wire of the Audio-System crossover to reduce the highs by about 3dB.
The Bass of Audio-System is amazing, the deeper the frequency goes, the stronger it plays. It can even play 25 Hz deep sound, fast and well controlled, The Problem is that you have to connnect your amp to the speaker level output of the HU because of your standard aystem configuration. What you have to do first is to get a clean flat input signal, not the poorly amplified signal from the HU.
My Audio-System subs are powered by JL slash 300/2 that takes the high level lineout (4 volt) of HU as input, the EU standard system doesn't have it.
Depends on which amp you used for front and real channel, you could do 3 level characteristic change on the Audio-System crossover. I cut down the blue wire in combination with alpine pdx.
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      09-14-2008, 05:38 PM   #6
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The specs of this system are not that clear (120W RMS power handling but no frequency response and no crossover cutoff frequency numbers)...
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      09-14-2008, 06:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
The specs of this system are not that clear (120W RMS power handling but no frequency response and no crossover cutoff frequency numbers)...
cutoff frequency is 130 Hz recommended by Audio-System, that is because the AS mids cannot play lower than 130 Hz.
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      09-14-2008, 06:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonywalker View Post
cutoff frequency is 130 Hz recommended by Audio-System, that is because the AS mids cannot play lower than 130 Hz.
Thanks... is there a kit for the replacement of the rear OEM speakers?
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      09-15-2008, 01:49 AM   #9
rkoelewijn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonywalker View Post
you have to cut the blue wire of the Audio-System crossover to reduce the highs by about 3dB.
The Bass of Audio-System is amazing, the deeper the frequency goes, the stronger it plays. It can even play 25 Hz deep sound, fast and well controlled, The Problem is that you have to connnect your amp to the speaker level output of the HU because of your standard aystem configuration. What you have to do first is to get a clean flat input signal, not the poorly amplified signal from the HU.
My Audio-System subs are powered by JL slash 300/2 that takes the high level lineout (4 volt) of HU as input, the EU standard system doesn't have it.
Depends on which amp you used for front and real channel, you could do 3 level characteristic change on the Audio-System crossover. I cut down the blue wire in combination with alpine pdx.
For now I use a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.1 to convert to line level signals and to remove OEM equalizing. I will change the Audio-System filters next weekend (because removing the doorpanels takes time) Also I ordered a 3Sixty.2 for even more control.
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      09-15-2008, 06:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkoelewijn View Post
For now I use a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.1 to convert to line level signals and to remove OEM equalizing. I will change the Audio-System filters next weekend (because removing the doorpanels takes time) Also I ordered a 3Sixty.2 for even more control.
if you use 3Sixty.2 you don't need to modify the xover anymore, everything is covered by EQ. But it is still hard to believe that a already degraded sound signal could be ever qualitatively restored through redigitizing, even the computer is not aware of its previous pulse form if it is distorted by the poor HU amp, what it can do is just unequalizing. If you don't care much about the cockpit looks, replace the HU through the CDA-9887r is the best solution and saves money.

Last edited by jonywalker; 09-15-2008 at 11:13 AM.
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      09-15-2008, 07:28 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Thanks... is there a kit for the replacement of the rear OEM speakers?
It is possible to order just a half kit (no subs) like I did.
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      09-15-2008, 09:29 AM   #12
rkoelewijn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonywalker View Post
if you use 3Sixty.2 you don't need to modify the xover anymore, everything is covered by EQ. But it is still hard to believe that a already degraded sound signal could be ever qualitatively restored through redigitizing, even the computer is not aware of the pulse form before the poor HU amp, what it can do is just unequalizing. If you don't care much about the cockpit looks, replace the HU through the CDA-9887r is the best solution and saves money.
HU replacement is not an option because I have business navigation.
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      09-15-2008, 10:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonywalker View Post
It is possible to order just a half kit (no subs) like I did.
Nice...
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      09-18-2008, 11:15 PM   #14
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does "audio-system" have a website?
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      09-19-2008, 01:51 AM   #15
rkoelewijn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwahlert View Post
does "audio-system" have a website?
Sure http://www.audio-system.de/english/index.html
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      09-19-2008, 11:45 PM   #16
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nice. post some vids so we can hear how it sounds!
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      10-12-2008, 08:36 AM   #17
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I'm trying to find a place to price / buy this speaker kit.
Where did you get it?
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      10-12-2008, 09:17 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdiprete View Post
I'm trying to find a place to price / buy this speaker kit.
Where did you get it?
I asked the same question... http://www.caraudio-store.de/AX,08,B...:3383329e.html
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      11-05-2008, 12:43 PM   #19
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Impressive

I was at a German car audio shop today and they had an e91 wagon with these components powered by an audison amp. The dealer insisted that I come outside and listen to it, because I was skeptical of this brand that I had never heard of. I am thoroughly impressed. The car had no subwoofer in the trunk, just the 8"s under the seats and it sounded very good. The true bass-heads would want a real sub in the back, but for alot of people, this would be more than enough.
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      11-05-2008, 01:59 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkoelewijn View Post
...I started looking into the SWS-8 path with a 4” compo set. After buying two SWS-8 speakers and beginning modifying the “under the seat” speaker housing I came to the conclusion this was not the way for me.
If you don't mind me asking, why wouldn't SWS-8 path work for you? did you have trouble fitting the sub or is it personal preference? I am looking into the sws-8 route also, but haven't purchase anything yet.
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      11-24-2011, 03:17 PM   #21
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hi Technic! im so muddled up on how to put a sub an amp in to my e90 with idrive, do u no how i can do this? thanks
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      01-16-2014, 08:49 AM   #22
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I have installed this Audio System kit...and it sounds very nice...

Bass are more deeper, and sound is pretty clear. But I will test MID after i will get XD600/6. I have individual MIDs and this Audio System's MIDs. I think the Individual (yellow-kevlar) will be better.
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