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      09-16-2014, 05:42 AM   #1
djpro1
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Vanos solenoids - where can i buy them

Hi guys

After 2 Vanos solenoids for n54. Where can I source them cheap?

Looked on ECS and they have it for $122 a pop.

Found one on http://www.rockauto.com/ at $70.99 a pop also.. One includes Oil Control Valve? what is that?

part number 11367585425 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...378&cc=1441663
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      09-16-2014, 06:32 AM   #2
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Something about the vanos has extended warranty. Look it up.
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      09-16-2014, 06:59 AM   #3
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the solenoids are considered wear and tear. I doubt the dealer will warranty them beyond the standard or CPO warranties. You can get new ones from Tischer, ECS or Amazon or you can clean your current units and put them back in (what I did). There are procedures all over the web for this DIY work.
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      09-16-2014, 07:09 AM   #4
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https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...er-11367585425

guessing two of these will do? one for exhaust and the other for intake
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      09-16-2014, 07:21 AM   #5
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Yes, they're both the same and can be swapped if need be. They basically are a mechanical valve that opens and closes letting oil into the vanos portion of the cam area.
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      09-16-2014, 12:18 PM   #6
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I got impatient when I found that an exhaust solenoid was my limp modes root cause. I went to the Irvine dealership down the street and picked one up for $145ish. Its usually more but I think they lower the price for anyone if you talk nicely over the phone and ask if they do price matching before you walk in. They'll usually meet somewhere close to your price. I don't see the big deal about changing them both at once. My exhaust solenoid went out and I replaced it myself in 15 min (when my engine cooled). Four months later, no limp modes or problems since from either solenoid.
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      09-16-2014, 12:20 PM   #7
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you may want to clean the intake solenoid as they do get gunked up over time which leads to the issues (that you saw). cheap, easy maintenance.
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      09-16-2014, 12:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddycane
you may want to clean the intake solenoid as they do get gunked up over time which leads to the issues (that you saw). cheap, easy maintenance.
Do folks on here proactively clean them at a regular intervals? I'm at 106k, replaced them at 55k. Do these fail repeatedly?

If so, what do you use? I've seen people use compressed air, carb cleaner, and gasoline, with mixed results.
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      09-17-2014, 12:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddycane View Post
you may want to clean the intake solenoid as they do get gunked up over time which leads to the issues (that you saw). cheap, easy maintenance.
Let me ask something, can it also be result of rough idle and misfire? Checked most of the symptoms and even coils and new sparks..injectors were already replaced

Btw what's best solution to clean them?
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      09-17-2014, 02:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSNGH View Post
Let me ask something, can it also be result of rough idle and misfire? Checked most of the symptoms and even coils and new sparks..injectors were already replaced

Btw what's best solution to clean them?
Yes, it can be a big cause for rough idle and power hiccups in the rpm range.

Cleaning is easy. Pull them both out and spray them thoroughly with carb cleaner. Let the carb cleaner soak in, then blow them out with compressed air. Use compressed air from a compressor or something with some power behind it to get the loosened gunk out.
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      09-17-2014, 04:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddycane View Post
Yes, it can be a big cause for rough idle and power hiccups in the rpm range.

Cleaning is easy. Pull them both out and spray them thoroughly with carb cleaner. Let the carb cleaner soak in, then blow them out with compressed air. Use compressed air from a compressor or something with some power behind it to get the loosened gunk out.

thank you, sounds like a weekend job..going to change vacuum lines and clean up the bay as well as the solenoids

hopefully this can be the culprit because i have misfire cylinder 1 but it went away now & also had the engine walnut blasted
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      09-17-2014, 04:25 PM   #12
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you can do the solenoids in 20 minutes or less. Just be careful removing the bolts (one per solenoid) that hold each solenoid in place....the openings are perfect places for things to fall into (seen posts here where someone did that).
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      09-17-2014, 05:19 PM   #13
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I pulled my solenoids and cleaned them with the compressed air and swapped their locations. Car idles and runs better since. Super easy job.
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      09-17-2014, 06:42 PM   #14
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I pulled my solenoids and cleaned them with the compressed air and swapped their locations. Car idles and runs better since. Super easy job.
Swapped locations? Like how so..the two selenoids just interchange them?
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      09-17-2014, 06:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddycane View Post
you can do the solenoids in 20 minutes or less. Just be careful removing the bolts (one per solenoid) that hold each solenoid in place....the openings are perfect places for things to fall into (seen posts here where someone did that).
Will do, this should be in one of the intervals for diy people. Hate to see people get these cars and not be aware about these situations
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      09-17-2014, 07:48 PM   #16
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Swapped locations? Like how so..the two selenoids just interchange them?
Yup. It's the same part number and exact same part. They could be wrong, but I was told that during operation they spin different directions. So one clockwise and one counter. When you switch them they switch which way they rotate, so they are "fresh" turning that direction. If that makes any sense. Only way I can think to describe it is say you have a hose plugged into the wall. If you spin it clockwise 100 times it's going to be kinked. Start spinning it the other way and it's much easier to spin back to neutral. Same concept with the solenoids, the wear of spinning the same direction all the time is reversed when you swap them. Could be broscience but makes sense to me.
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      09-17-2014, 10:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Yup. It's the same part number and exact same part. They could be wrong, but I was told that during operation they spin different directions. So one clockwise and one counter. When you switch them they switch which way they rotate, so they are "fresh" turning that direction. If that makes any sense. Only way I can think to describe it is say you have a hose plugged into the wall. If you spin it clockwise 100 times it's going to be kinked. Start spinning it the other way and it's much easier to spin back to neutral. Same concept with the solenoids, the wear of spinning the same direction all the time is reversed when you swap them. Could be broscience but makes sense to me.
Damn bro you just made it complicated into impossible lol

I'm going to remove them clean them and basically put each one in different rotation position yes?
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