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      02-06-2014, 05:55 PM   #1
mmurray
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Dumb Question - Battery Replacement

Sorry if this is covered elsewhere - I searched a bit, but everyone seemed to jump past the basics. I'm coming from an XJ Jeep so this whole battery registration thing is new to me...

The set-up: Pre-LCI 330xi, hop in to leave the shop (tire/wheel seal broke, I was leaking air). Start it up and it's throwing 4x4, DSC, TPMS, e-brake lights in yellow... the TPMS wasn't too surprising but with the rest I felt like a Christmas tree - nothing I've seen before. Weird.

Drive a mile home, park it, try to stop the gears in my head tallying up potential repair costs of an xDrive/ Traction system failure. Next day get in the driver's seat, interior lights are on, go to start and nada. Info screen has a little seizure, but no engine turn. (He's dead, Jim!). It's pretty cold up here, has been for a while - figure it's dead.

What to do now? I'll need a new battery - what's the deal on aftermarket? Do I need OEM or certain spec? I assume I can take that bracket off and install myself - then I have to register it to the car?

I piped up in a thread about a guy near me in Jersey who can do the setup, but I'm not entirely sure how or why it works. Can someone please explain? Thanks!
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      02-06-2014, 08:20 PM   #2
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330 does not necessarily need registration, assuming it is 06 model. Just swap out with a Walmart h8.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=14584725
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      02-07-2014, 09:47 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
330 does not necessarily need registration, assuming it is 06 model. Just swap out with a Walmart h8.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=14584725
Thanks. Still looks like I need to get some cable and software...?
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      02-07-2014, 10:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
330 does not necessarily need registration, assuming it is 06 model. Just swap out with a Walmart h8.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=14584725
Even 06 models need the proper coding and registration. If its the same size and type you can probably get away with it, but if your going to fix something might as well do it right.
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      02-07-2014, 10:19 AM   #5
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Those errors you described are normal after.

Those errors you described are normal after a battery replacement.
The car should reinitialize and they should go away after driving about a block.
The 4x4 error needs the steering wheel turned to the far left and right to
disappear. I just drove mine down to the end of the block and back and
they all went away.
You should match the amp hours on the battery if you go aftermarket
don't use battery back up or you will blow a fuse.
There are DIY procedures in the DIY sub board.
I used a Interstate MTP 49/H8

Last edited by ctuna; 02-07-2014 at 10:24 AM.
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      02-07-2014, 02:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmurray
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
330 does not necessarily need registration, assuming it is 06 model. Just swap out with a Walmart h8.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=14584725
Thanks. Still looks like I need to get some cable and software...?
If you ask me it is not necessary as I used to have the same car and did the battery swap without registration. There is some info out there that 06 models don't need it (I was told by my SA at the time it didn't need to be done) but then there are also plenty of folks out there that will tell you your battery will blow up if you don't register it.
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      02-08-2014, 02:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw325i View Post
Even 06 models need the proper coding and registration. If its the same size and type you can probably get away with it, but if your going to fix something might as well do it right.
If I replace with the same spec and run it for a bit before recoding I should be OK, right? What's the advantage to

Aside from weight savings going smaller, is there any downside to getting a non-OEM battery with the same specs (Interstate H8)?
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      02-08-2014, 02:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Those errors you described are normal after a battery replacement.
The car should reinitialize and they should go away after driving about a block.
The 4x4 error needs the steering wheel turned to the far left and right to
disappear. I just drove mine down to the end of the block and back and
they all went away.
You should match the amp hours on the battery if you go aftermarket
don't use battery back up or you will blow a fuse.
There are DIY procedures in the DIY sub board.
I used a Interstate MTP 49/H8
i'm getting these errors BEFORE a replacement - will they clear once I pop a fresh one in a drive for a bit?
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      02-08-2014, 02:12 PM   #9
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Can't says for sure .

Can't says for sure .
But if your battery is very low it can cause all kinds
strange things to happen.
Have you tried charging the existing battery to see
what kind of difference that makes.?

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja
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      02-08-2014, 02:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna
Can't says for sure .
But if your battery is very low it can cause all kinds
strange things to happen.
Have you tried charging the existing battery to see
what kind of difference that makes.?

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja
That doc is super helpful thank you. Just looking at the battery I'm a little confused though - I don't seem to have the same setup, and for some reason just have a unconnected plug coming out of the harness. It was like this when I popped the bar off and based on that fest doc the stuff it's supposed to plug into isn't even there. Any ideas?
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      02-08-2014, 04:43 PM   #11
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The unnconnected plug is for shipping the car.

The unconnected plug is for shipping the car.
Its used to keep it in a deeper sleep mode .
(thus saving the battery from depletion)
There is DIY in the DIY section on changing the battery.
The battery clamps must be all the way down on the battery
terminal when you tighten to clamp on .
The battery distribution block on yours looks just like mine
I have seen them in black plastic instead of red.
Its helpful to have somebody hold the cables out of the way
when you position the new battery in .
Be sure to note the cable positions of anything you disconnect
and be sure they go back to that position.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=battery


Last edited by ctuna; 02-08-2014 at 04:58 PM.
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      02-08-2014, 07:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
If you ask me it is not necessary as I used to have the same car and did the battery swap without registration. There is some info out there that 06 models don't need it (I was told by my SA at the time it didn't need to be done) but then there are also plenty of folks out there that will tell you your battery will blow up if you don't register it.
I don't think there is any difference between 06 and later models as far as battery registration. It's not hard to code a new battery, so I don't see any reason to skip this step.
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      02-11-2014, 04:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
The unconnected plug is for shipping the car.
Its used to keep it in a deeper sleep mode .
(thus saving the battery from depletion)
There is DIY in the DIY section on changing the battery.
The battery clamps must be all the way down on the battery
terminal when you tighten to clamp on .
The battery distribution block on yours looks just like mine
I have seen them in black plastic instead of red.
Its helpful to have somebody hold the cables out of the way
when you position the new battery in .
Be sure to note the cable positions of anything you disconnect
and be sure they go back to that position.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw325i View Post
I don't think there is any difference between 06 and later models as far as battery registration. It's not hard to code a new battery, so I don't see any reason to skip this step.
Thanks! Looking to get a battery tonight and replace with this video before all the snow tomorrow! I probably won't be able to register for a week or so I hope that's fine. Now I went online and found a few options linked below, they don't seem to match up to the specs, despite being a match for my car (CC/CCA different, H6 vs H8 size, etc.) Would either of these be OK? I'm hesitant to replace with a cheap battery, no less one that's the wrong size. Really would like to avoid OEM cost if possible, but I'm still learning the correct specs and want to make sure I'm not going to fry anything:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...2332_636967_0_

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...597#fragment-1
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      02-11-2014, 04:41 PM   #14
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=18
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      02-11-2014, 05:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
Thank you!!! Wish I had found this thread earlier.

Sounds like the Everlast Maxx-H8 14 will work, and (assuming it's a non-AGM lead acid which it seems to be) I won't need to register, although I think Fazman may help me out with that in the near future.

That Everlast was on your '06 330i right?

Also, I saw the 760 CCA rating - any recollection what the other values were? Like I said I'm still learning all about battery spec, but this is off my current presumably dead brick (omitted S# I figured was serial up top):

525679 - 10 IT
-----------------------
12V 90Ah 720A (EN)
160RC 720CCA (SAE)
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Last edited by mmurray; 02-11-2014 at 05:27 PM. Reason: added battery rating info
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      02-11-2014, 05:50 PM   #16
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No that was for my current car, but the OEM batteries are the same I believe. This battery is still running strong.
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