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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > L7 Amp dead. After a little research thinking of this upgade



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      02-20-2014, 09:03 AM   #1
Pooj
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L7 Amp dead. After a little research thinking of this upgade

Hi Guys,.

So my L7 amp is dead, instead of ordering a used 600$ one and risking it breaking again i think im going to upgrade.

After a little reasearch this is what i came with:

----------------------------------------------------------------
JL441 Cleanseep DSP
http://www.jlaudio.com/cl441dsp-car-...egration-98110
300$ USD
-----------------------------------------------------------------
CL-SES Exapansion
(this is needed because the cleansweep is only 1 channel right??? I want 1 amp for the sub and 1 amp for the speakers)
http://www.jlaudio.com/cl-ssi-car-au...egration-98112
109$ USD
------------------------------------------------------------------
Please do recommend if any better speakers for the doors. I dont mind paying a little more

Thinking of Focal IFBMW-S for the front doors.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Focal-IFBMW-...item51b4f1804a
416$ USD
---------------------------------------------------------------------

I already have a couple aftermarket amps, need to search the garage for them... audison kicker and alpine

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Since i have e93 and heard infinite baffle is good i will go that way. Any sub recommendations will be appreciated.
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      02-20-2014, 12:47 PM   #2
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The cleansweep won't do what your trying to do. You need a DA2.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=932972
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      02-20-2014, 01:29 PM   #3
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What if you recoded your radio/iDrive to Hi-Fi, ran RCAs to your trunk then installed a JL XD600/6 with the use of a Technic Harness? That's what I did and I'll tell you, it's awesome.
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      02-20-2014, 01:57 PM   #4
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I dont mind recoding my head unit. The reason i wanted a dsp is because i already have an amp for my speakers and wanted to buy an amp for my subwoofer.

In the end I want 1 sub and a set of components ( I need at least 500 rms for my IDMAX 12 sub in infinite baffle and 100 rms each speaker focal speaker).

I heard that you need specific amps to work with top hi fi though, and already had an
But I guess, if i dont need a dsp i can re-use my money for an amp for those speakers.

Now that I think about it, I can get this one that gives 100 rms to each speaker http://www.jlaudio.com/hd900-5-car-a...plifiers-98223

And 500 rms for my subwoofer.

Awesome!!! I guess I can recode to hi fi
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      02-20-2014, 02:13 PM   #5
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Im really confused on what harness do i need ?? If I recode to hifi, i can remove my L7 Amp, right ? What harness do i need to run hi fi coded to an aftermarket amp?
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      02-20-2014, 02:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pooj View Post
I dont mind recoding my head unit. The reason i wanted a dsp is because i already have an amp for my speakers and wanted to buy an amp for my subwoofer.

In the end I want 1 sub and a set of components ( I need at least 500 rms for my IDMAX 12 sub in infinite baffle and 100 rms each speaker focal speaker).

I heard that you need specific amps to work with top hi fi though, and already had an
But I guess, if i dont need a dsp i can re-use my money for an amp for those speakers.

Now that I think about it, I can get this one that gives 100 rms to each speaker http://www.jlaudio.com/hd900-5-car-a...plifiers-98223

And 500 rms for my subwoofer.

Awesome!!! I guess I can recode to hi fi
Yes you can recode to hifi, and you wont need a cleansweep.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=826683


The pdx v9 is cheaper than the hd900/5 and basically the same thing. It actually is a little more powerful at 2 ohms or bridged at 4 ohms than the 900/5. Not that it really matters since most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms anyways.

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-V9-.../dp/B007VSXGOQ
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      02-20-2014, 02:51 PM   #7
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The integrity (for the lack of a better word) of the HiFi signal has been somewhat hit and miss from what I have seen. Some people have a great clean signal, others have hiss and other noises generated by the HU (ask Taibanl for example). In my mind the cleanest approach is still the DA2.

OP I was going to suggest the HD900/5 amp also. It is solid and gives you exactly what you need in terms of power. If you were on a budget there would be some alternatives, but it does not look like you are.

I would recommed the Technic harness to tie in to the OEM speaker wires in the trunk. That way you don't need to cut or splice any wires and everything is 100% reversible. If you don't care about that, and don't plan to return the car to stock before you sell it, I see no problem in cutting the OEM harness and connecting to the wires by means of soldering or professional crimping.
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      02-20-2014, 03:09 PM   #8
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DA2 + HD900/5 it is.

Thanks.
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      02-20-2014, 03:10 PM   #9
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Any links to buy the technic harness ?? cant seem to find it.
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      02-20-2014, 03:20 PM   #10
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Pm Technic
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      02-20-2014, 03:25 PM   #11
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For the DA2 you can PM 6spdcoupe. Don is a great guy to deal with and his shop Unexpected Creations specializes in high end cars. He may also carry the JL who knows.
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      02-20-2014, 03:35 PM   #12
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I'm not sure which of these 2 amps is the better one, but for the price difference I think that's money better spent on components. Just my opinion.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-LciXxt3...01%7C136HD9005
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      02-20-2014, 04:06 PM   #13
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Last question, how does the D2 get plugged to my head unit ? Do i need an adapter?recode to hifi ?
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      02-20-2014, 04:10 PM   #14
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Ah ah found your post on another thread Kaigoss69. i imagine its the same as ms8.

The power and ground are spliced from the cables that ran into the l7?

To install, all you need to do is disassemble the OEM optical connegctor which was hooked up to the L7 amp, to retrieve the small plastic plug that holds the two optical cables together, and then insert that plug into the connector that was provided with the unit. Power and ground were connected to the MS-8 terminals, and the turn-on wire went to the MS-8 remote-in terminal.
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      02-20-2014, 04:43 PM   #15
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Your search skills are impeccable!

In your case the optical hook up is the same as mine, and for power you can use the (old) L7 amp connections in the OEM harness. Then the blue turn on wire gets connected to the amp remote in lead.
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      02-21-2014, 06:06 AM   #16
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So theres a blue turn on wire that came to the old l7 amp that will go to the new amp instead?

Dude at my shop says this below will outplay the IDX anyday, and cant get the IDX.
Bullshit or not? Is this fit for infinite baffle ? Told him to quote me the JL's
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3d4-12
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      02-21-2014, 06:10 AM   #17
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Heh reviews say its pretty good

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/i3476...t-Reviews.html
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      02-21-2014, 12:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pooj View Post
So theres a blue turn on wire that came to the old l7 amp that will go to the new amp instead?

Dude at my shop says this below will outplay the IDX anyday, and cant get the IDX.
Bullshit or not? Is this fit for infinite baffle ? Told him to quote me the JL's
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3d4-12
No way that sub will outperform an idmax. If the audio shop can't get you the equipment you want just buy it yourself.
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      02-21-2014, 05:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pooj View Post
LOL that's like a KIA salesman saying it will outperform a BMW.
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      02-21-2014, 06:27 PM   #20
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HAHAHAHAHAH thanks guys!!

What about a JL 12w6, is the IDMAX better? I think they can get 12w6... otherwise ill get the idmax off ebay
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      02-21-2014, 06:55 PM   #21
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12W6 does very well IB from what I have read but it does not have the excursion capabilities of the IDMax so it won't be able to get as loud (if that is a consideration). If the price is similar, go with the ID. I graphed the two in another thread, let me find it.
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      02-21-2014, 06:56 PM   #22
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never mind, that was a 12w7. I'll make a new graph.
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