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DIY - V1 Valentine One Hardwire
Published by xRayx
11-25-2007
DIY - V1 Valentine One Hardwire

How to hardwire a Valentine 1 Radar Locator on a BMW E90.

Do I have to cut, splice, or solder onto any wires? NO, not with my method.
Will I damage or scratch my vehicle? No, again. Not with my method.
Will my V1 cut off when I use my sunroof? No
Will this void my warranty? I'm concerned because it's a lease. No. My way will leave no trace that you ever had it installed. Well... unless you don't clean off the suction cup marks on the windshield after you remove it.

Really, Why? My way is comprised of techniques from many resources. I have determined these to be the best of the best... from removing the console to wiring it up.

IMPORTANT!!! Read this post in it's entirety before attempting to install.

It's only the beginning:
Getting Started You will need a Valentine One Radar Locator


www.valentine1.com or buy one on
eBay
but be sure it comes with the hardwire kit.

A V1 Windshield Mount

A Power cord

Note: Any telephone cord can be used.

Direct-Wire Power Adapter


Solder and Soldering Iron

Note: Just read the entire thing... you'll see why.

10mm socket and small ratchet

Female wire connector
Wire Strippers with ability to fasten connectors
About 3 inches of wire
Note: must be the same guage (thickness) as the Direct-Wire Power Adapter wire



3 zip ties

A person with small hands


Getting In:

Removing the console is typically the hardest and most frustrating part of the install
so you will do it first. To help avoid the frustrations you are going to do without
the spatula's and screwdrivers that may damage the vehicle. I'm a perfectionist
and I could do without any scratch that may be caused by other methods. This part
of the install requires small clean hands. So you may need to grab your girlfriend
(unless she is bigger than you) or your little brother/sister. Get into the passenger
seat where you (or your small one) can sit comfortably facing away from the windshield
with their back against the dash and head looking up. Move the
seat around and tilt it whichever way is most comfortable. I moved the
chair forward and sat "indian style" in it then leaned back. This is what you

should see:



Where the windshield meets the roofs interior you need to carefully slide a couple
of fingers in there until you can feel the lighting console. It's a tight fit, be
gentle cause it's her first time.



Now run your fingers along the console from the inside till you feel the metal clips.

They are located directly
behind the round lights. The clips are easy to recognize because everything else
is plastic and the clips have a semi-sharp edge. Once you locate one push it in
and down to push the console out of the cutout. Do it for the next clip as well.
Now you should see this.



Completely remove the console and place it in your back seat. Don't worry about
what wires connectors go where. They are all different and can not be mistaken
when putting back into place.
To remove the connector there are small tabs that keep them secure. Push on them
to remove each individually. The only one you may want to make note of its placement
is the connector that just has two wires going to it. It has this little storage
connector type space on the console. Now, Unless you want to drive around with the
hole in your roof keep reading.
Make ends meet:
Creating a lead wire to insert into the car's connector will prevent
you from having to cut, splice, or solder into factory wires. This will eliminate
any risk of messing up and cutting too deep or getting sloppy, etc. Now you may
want to do this part first. Just in case you want to save some time and have this
step ready so you can jump to the next. Take your 3" wire and strip a little bit
from both ends. Connect the female connector to one end of it by putting
one of the stripped ends into the adapter and using the wire strippers to
fasten it into place by clamping down on it . I fold over the wire
before I put it in so it has a tight and secure fit. Like this.



Now take the other end and slightly twist the strands of wires and then add a little
bit of solder to the end to keep them together. If you get sloppy just use sand
paper or a file to clean it up.



This is what you should end up with when done.




Lead the Way:

To power the unit you are going to run your lead wire into the connector instead
of splicing into it. Locate the green wire with a white stripe and let it lead you
to the connector that plugs into the console. This is so easy! Simply take you lead
wire and slide it into the connector where the green with white stripe wire is.
Kinda like if you were to connect two speakers the the same speaker output on a
receiver. This technique I believe is commonly referred to as piggybacking.



It should have a pretty snug fit but to ensure it stays in and secure I zip tied
it.



Now connect your red wire with the blue male connector from the Direct-Wire Power
Adapter to your lead wire female connector that is going to the car's black connectors
wiring harness.

Your Grounded:

Grounding the unit is a fairly simple process. Although I have heard some things
about people having problems with certain bolts they ground to where they have to
file a bit to get some raw surface area. I haven't had any problems, and from the
resources there are no complaints of anyone having problems. The 10mm bolt is located
in the upper left if you are facing the windshield and upper right if you are facing
the backseats.



Loosen up the 10mm bolt with a small ratchet enough where you can slide in the ground
wire from the Direct-Wire Power Adapter. Tighten it back up and now your grounded!
You can count the amount of turns it takes to loosen it up so you can tighten it
back up relatively close to where it was initially.

Lights? Good!:

Now before you put everything back together this would be a good time to make sure
everything works, right? Get your V1, your car key, and the power cord. Plug the
power cord into your V1 and the other end into the Direct-Wire Power Adapter's "Main
Unit" output. Getting excited now? Good! Put in your key and push the start button.
No need to push the brake. You aren't going to go drive around, just make sure the
thing works.



Awesome! It works! If for some reason it doesn't it's probably your own fault and don't
worry about it. If you couldn't handle the install you probably shouldn't be driving
fast enough to get a speeding ticket anyways.

Get back in there:

Now you want to take the power cord and put it through the roofs interior in the
same place you accessed the metal clips. Doesn't matter which way you feed it through.
Just leave enough to make it from where the power cord hides to your V1.





After you have done that bundle it up nicely with a zip tie. Black ones look better
but if you want to use clear or whatever else go for it.




Now bundle up the power and ground wires neatly in the same fashion.



The power cord should be sitting just above the mirror in the little space between the windshield and the light console. I tucked the adapter in the left hand corner. To ensure you can fit the console back in make sure it is tucked all the way in the corner. The wires from the Direct-Wire Power Adapter are tucked behind the metal tab on the left side of the cutout.




Plug the connectors from the vehicle back into the lighting console and then carefully insert it back into place with the side closest to the rear of the vehicle first and then slide it back and then up into place. If for some reason it does not want to go back up you may have the Direct-Wire Power Adapter in the way. Make sure it's tucked in that corner.





Special Thanks to E90post forums, user ALPINE, and Jeremiah from Weber BMW of Fresno,
CA.
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  #1  
By judec on 11-25-2007, 06:00 AM
nice. not gonna use it, but I can appreciate it anyway. Thx
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  #2  
By Bimmer335i07 on 11-26-2007, 02:21 AM
There's a much easier DIY, that doesn't need any soldering and is undetetable after you uninstall it. It's called using a fuse tap. And that method will only take 10 mins. tops. And no experience necessary. lol!

for the write-up, though.
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  #3  
By Dav8y_d on 11-26-2007, 02:28 AM
Nice! Very structured & descriptive DIY. This is exactly how I have my V1 hardwired to the car, very convenient.
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  #4  
By Wai328 on 11-26-2007, 03:03 AM
Nice...this is what my dad did to his e92 335i
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  #5  
By orientblue3 on 11-26-2007, 02:05 PM
I love the catchy subtitles. LOL. I'm going to try the normal hardwired way and see if that works without any problems. If it has some of the problems (like it freaking out when opening the sunroof), I will consult your method. Thanks!
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  #6  
By Alpine on 11-26-2007, 03:35 PM
Great write up! Very descriptive and catchy. Glad I could help you out.
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  #7  
By Lotus99 on 11-26-2007, 08:47 PM
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Sweet! How about a concealed display now?

I came across a guy who does awesome work for the Audi's and since I'm considering getting the 335i next, I wanted to see how it would be doable on this car. Haven't seen the 335i in person yet, so don't know!

Can you or anyone else please post a picture of the trim piece that goes over the steering column if there is one? Could it mount like this if there's room?




.
.
.
Or would it have to go on the instrument cluster's trim like this if there's no trim piece above the steering column?


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  #8  
By OneSick3 on 12-25-2007, 09:16 PM
WOW That stealth display is hot... I wish I knew where to buy one like that...
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  #9  
By Lotus99 on 12-27-2007, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneSick3 View Post
WOW That stealth display is hot... I wish I knew where to buy one like that...
You can contact Michael at li-s4@voodootec.com. he'd be happy to work with you I'm sure. let him know Amiro sent you!

You can also see some more of his work here: Audiworld post
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  #10  
By cbad335 on 03-01-2008, 11:34 PM
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Question: I pinched the V1's included wiring-harness connector around the green/white wire (instead of the soldered lead method) and everything works fine until I operate the sun roof. Now when I open/tilt up the sunroof, the V1 restarts. Will the soldered lead method fix this, or are others having issues w/ the sunroof after tapping into the green/white wire in this DYI?

Update: I decided to use the fuse tap method--worked like a charm. For those attempting this in the future, I recommend just going the fuse tap method from the start.
Last edited by cbad335; 03-03-2008 at 12:06 PM.
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  #11  
By mtc330 on 03-30-2008, 01:06 PM
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Excellent review. The fuse tap sounds good too. Where would the fuse tap go?

Thanks,

MIchael
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  #12  
By Appropriate on 03-30-2008, 01:09 PM
It goes on top of the electric keg.
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  #13  
By mtc330 on 03-30-2008, 02:47 PM
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i looked for one of those; you sure the keg comes on the E90?

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  #14  
By Appropriate on 03-30-2008, 04:12 PM
Oh, no sorry, it only comes in the E91. My bad.
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  #15  
By aut0sh0cker on 04-18-2008, 09:19 PM
just finished with the install... i have to say that was almost as easy as changing out the angel eyes or fogs. I am glad to say it went smoothly and looks great. oh yeah, and that thing about the "small hands," they really help...
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  #16  
By Mike Benvo on 05-02-2008, 03:11 PM
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Wen't through all of this to find out that it leaves the sunroof inoperable. Damnit!
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  #17  
By phantom330 on 05-02-2008, 03:33 PM
Nice writeup, but Fuse Tap method FTW.
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  #18  
By monsta on 05-14-2008, 07:04 PM
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what is the fuse method, I've searched and couldn't find it, trying to determine which to do...
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  #19  
By monsta on 05-15-2008, 01:05 AM
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ok so I decided use this thread as guidance and it is a very simple install until I got to the 10mm bolt for grounding, this bolt is non existent in my car I looked everywhere up there right left facing windshield and backseat stuck my hand up there and felt around and there isn't anything, there are two holes directly overhead were bolts could go but they are empty, can someone w/ a e92 M3 take pics of there 10mm bolt and were I could find it....or am I missing it and should just go buy one and plug into one of those holes? would this be a appropriate ground?

whats sucks more is that I had 4 mods to do tonight and I was able to finish the other 3 but the most important one I couldn't do and its sucks...I changed to CF Grill, Painted Reflectors and GP Thunders H8's
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  #20  
By stefanodemais on 05-18-2008, 11:28 PM
I'm trying this method and when I tried to "piggyback" the wire I really didn't understand how. Am I supposed to push the green/white wire further in it's hole and place my lead wire behind it or should I just touch it there and zip tie it. If I try to put pressure on it, the wire bends etc. I'm not really good with wires and such. Just looking for some guidance. Also, the grounding bold is really hard to get to. Thanks for the write up.
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  #21  
By E92Vancouver on 05-19-2008, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monsta View Post
ok so I decided use this thread as guidance and it is a very simple install until I got to the 10mm bolt for grounding, this bolt is non existent in my car I looked everywhere up there right left facing windshield and backseat stuck my hand up there and felt around and there isn't anything, there are two holes directly overhead were bolts could go but they are empty, can someone w/ a e92 M3 take pics of there 10mm bolt and were I could find it....or am I missing it and should just go buy one and plug into one of those holes? would this be a appropriate ground?

whats sucks more is that I had 4 mods to do tonight and I was able to finish the other 3 but the most important one I couldn't do and its sucks...I changed to CF Grill, Painted Reflectors and GP Thunders H8's
Here are my instuctions for wiring a radar detector. Much simpler. Takes 20 minutes:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111583
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