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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - V1 Valentine One Hardwire



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xRayx's Avatar DIY - V1 Valentine One Hardwire
xRayx
11-25-2007
How to hardwire a Valentine 1 Radar Locator on a BMW E90.

Do I have to cut, splice, or solder onto any wires? NO, not with my method.
Will I damage or scratch my vehicle? No, again. Not with my method.
Will my V1 cut off when I use my sunroof? No
Will this...
  #110  
By genebike on 03-30-2013, 02:12 PM
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First off: thanks for the great writeup with really clear pictures and explanations

I followed this method exactly, with the exception of the soldering(I don't have the equipment) and prying the headliner. I haven't had any issues with my sunroof/SOS/power - it all works just fine.

A few notes
  • Use 18 or 20 guage wire - it fits perfectly especially if you don't solder.
  • Remove the visor clips. It adds 5 minutes to a very quick install but makes getting to the dome clips so much easier.
  • Have a headlamp or small flashlight you can hold with your teeth handy(this is especially important if you have a dark headliner).

Thanks again.
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  #111  
By lukasbmw on 04-04-2013, 02:12 AM
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Great DIY.

But I'm going to make a custom mount that holds the V1 just below the rear view mirror and away from the window to keep it out of the sight of thieves and allow you to throw up sun shades if necessary.

In my past cars, I've mounted the V1 directly to the rear view mirror with a custom plastic bracket, but this caused the rear view mirror to shake sometimes from the additional weight.

This time, I'm going to fabricate a metal bracket that will attach to the front part of the headliner and hold the V1 just below the mirror.
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  #112  
By Lotus99 on 04-04-2013, 01:51 PM
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Blendmount makes brackets exactly like you describe, though A) I can't recall if they have one yet for our cars, and B) they're pretty expensive IMO.
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  #113  
By N8N on 04-04-2013, 02:04 PM
Yes they do and yes they are I sucked it up and bought one though and it's so superior to any other mounting method... it makes the V1 so easy to just take out of console, slide in, plug in and go... and it's rock solid stable.
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  #114  
By jsrbrown on 04-12-2013, 04:13 PM
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Hi I'm new and I just followed the instructions from the OP. Very well done.... Cept I used the wire splice in the kit instead of the wire with solder. Works great and all the accessories are as they were. Thanks!
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  #115  
By lukasbmw on 06-17-2013, 10:32 PM
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FUCK!

If I had known about the blendmount I wouldn't have just spent the last day and a half fabricating my own bracket out of aluminum. It was a gigantic pain in the ass.

As for hardwiring, I had two issues:

1. The "vampire" clip I got with the V1 factory hardwire was either FAULTY or was meant for bigger wires. It didn't have a solid connection. The V1 would power on an off as the unit did not have a solid power connection due to the faulty connector. I had to buy a similar connector (tap splice) from ACE hardware. The "Tap Splice" connector was for 22-18 gauge wire. Problem solved.

2. I originally grounded to the HEX bolt because it was easier to get to. BAD DECISION. My V1 would throw a fit when I opened or closed the sun roof. That 10mm bolt is a bit harder to get to, but once I tapped into that for the ground, PROBLEM SOLVED. I think that hex bolt is not a good ground as it bolts the sunroof motor assembly to the chassis while the 10mm bolt goes directly to the chassis. I cursed up a storm trying to get that ground to the 10mm bolt.

3. I originally had the SOS fault too. The SOS connector is the white one. Make sure it clips fully back in. That was my problem.
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  #116  
By mythek on 10-18-2013, 08:31 PM
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found a solution

anyone used this method and now the sunroof is not working properly. I can only open it barely halfway.

I grounded using the that hard to reach 10mm bolt that many have used without problems. After removing the piggybacking hardwire cable, my sunroof still doesn't work properly.

Anyone know what couldve went wrong here?

thanks for your time!

EDIT: I've found the solution here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100980

for my 2008 e92 335i, I had to lock the car. Unlock, then IMMEDIATELY press the runroof (tilt) button and hold it for 30 seconds (you will see the runroof doing it's reset by moving upward, backward, then forward, then upward again)
Last edited by mythek; 10-18-2013 at 10:03 PM. Reason: found a solution
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  #117  
By shadowx360 on 11-11-2013, 11:52 PM
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Better Ground

Hey, I know I'm a few years late to this thread, but I've found a way better method of hardwiring this.

For starters, I couldn't get my fingers in between the headliner and roof, so here is a much simpler way that won't hurt your fingers or stretch your headliner: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...0302#post20302

Specifically:


For the ground, I know most people use the ground bolts, but they are a pain to get to, and since I didn't have any sort of electric connectors or solder, I didn't want to just screw in a thin wire behind that massive bolt. Also, I checked using a multimeter and resistance for using the bolt as ground was pretty high.

I took a regular telephone cord, spray painted it black, and then plugged it into my Escort passport 8500 X50. I stripped the middle two wires (red and green) and connected the red to the green/white one using a side tap. For the ground, I couldn't get to the bolt even with a universal, so I sat there with a multimeter trying to find a good ground. I stuck a paperclip into where the wire goes into the plug (where this tutorial says to tap), and checked resistance between the paperclip and the outside ring of the lighter plug. The outside ring is negative, so if I see a very low resistance between the two, I've found ground. The answer is a brown wire with a black stripe. There are a few of them, so you'll have to check like I did, but it's at least much better than trying to attach to a rusty bolt that you can barely reach. Resistance is under 1 ohm, meaning you won't get the low voltage/bad ground issues.

You can see in this image which wire I tapped into, this may be a bit different for everyone (I drive an '06 330i) but it should definitely be brown with black stripe. This is a million times better than running a wire down the A-pillar and using tape-a-fuse. On top of much less work, this costed me nothing.
Last edited by shadowx360; 11-12-2013 at 12:05 AM.
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  #118  
By gimmethemuumuu on 03-15-2014, 04:57 PM
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I wanted to update the thread with my experience:

I had used this method to great success with my wife's '07 E91 328i. Attempting to do the same with my '08 E90 M3, it was functional under normal usage but I had power cycling with a sunroof tilt and power dropping completely with the sunroof open.

I got the car a year and a half ago and have been unable to use the detector with the sunroof open. I had checked on M3Post for a solution but to no avail. Everyone would just suggest using the fuse-tap method. Having already done this procedure successfully on one car, I was convinced there should be a solution.

Fast forward to just last night, I thought, let me check on E90Post. Surely, there'll be better info there, given that that was where the original DIY was. I noticed a few posts talking about ensuring a good ground, preferring one of the 10mm bolts to secure the ground rather than a screw. Well, as it turns out, this was exactly the information I needed!

Now, I am able to tilt the sunroof or open it with impunity and the detector does not lose power in the least
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  #119  
By shadowx360 on 03-15-2014, 05:00 PM
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Fast forward to just last night, I thought, let me check on E90Post. Surely, there'll be better info there, given that that was where the original DIY was. I noticed a few posts talking about ensuring a good ground, preferring one of the 10mm bolts to secure the ground rather than a screw. Well, as it turns out, this was exactly the information I needed!

Now, I am able to tilt the sunroof or open it with impunity and the detector does not lose power in the least [/quote]

Not tooting my own horn but my post above using an actual ground wire seems to be even better than a screw.
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  #120  
By gimmethemuumuu on 03-16-2014, 01:19 AM
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I disagree. There were two 10mm bolts, one on each side, which were very easy to get to and provide the necessary grounding. No need to tap into two wires/slot on the car's wiring.
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  #121  
By suprchrgd on 05-09-2014, 07:41 PM
great write up, thanks!
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  #122  
By Alanintx on 06-02-2014, 04:53 PM
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Great posting

Wish I had seen it months ago. Since I have a E84 (2014 X1), I did not look in E90 land. Of course, the wiring and the overhead console are just about the same.

I've done this in each of my 3 previous BMWs (an E39, a E92, and an F25) and the damn clips in the X1 had almost defeated me.

Some hints....

1. The clips that I struggled with (on and off) for 3 months can easily be addressed. Remove the plastic cover below the lights, then remove the plastic "circles" around the reading lamps (they just pop off). Once this is done, if you look carefully, up into the lamp cavities, you will see the back of the dreaded clips (at least this is the story on the E84). There is a small gap on the side of each clip. I have a "pick" tool that worked perfectly, but you can probably get by with a straightened paper clip with a right angle bend. Insert the tool, pul back the clip, and presto, the console drops. No messing with the headliner, no damage by continually trying to pry the clips back.

The rest is all the same. I used the G/W wire (switched 12V) that goes to the mirror, which I THINK this powers the HomeLink. No problems with the sunroof, or anything else.'

Also, ran the wire over the headliner and out from behind the vanity light, as I have my V1 clipped to the visor.

Once again, thanks for all the great posts.

By the way, the A-pillar approach is bit more straight forward, and I've used it in all my cars prior to becoming a BMW addict. However, now that there is an airbag in there, I'm not going to go near it.
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  #123  
By slowbmw on 10-08-2014, 09:37 AM
Kind of a shot in the dark...but does anyone on here have the power cord to their V1 aka the pigtail cord and cigarette lighter adapter? I only have a hardwire kit for mine. I would honestly do a trade for your power cord, for my hardwire kit. Let me know by PM if anyone is interested.
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  #124  
By Lotus99 on 10-08-2014, 11:38 AM
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Just get one off ebay. Pretty cheap. There's non-Valentine ones out there that work.
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  #125  
By ridge_racer on 10-20-2014, 11:58 PM
I'm still having problems getting this mod to work with my dash cam in my '11 E90. Could I just jump it off any of the wires for the sunroof?
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