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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > stronger than usual vibration when idle



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      02-14-2008, 11:56 PM   #23
fast_lap28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shragon View Post
fast_lap28, thanks for your post!

i need to bring my car in real soon for micro filter change and i'm definably going to bring up this issue.
no problem, I thank everyone for their continuous contribution to this forum.

for the 4 months I waited for my 335 I learned and continue to find well informed topics on this forum.....coming from Audiworld I have been nothing but impressed with E90Post....

sorry, thread jacked a bit
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      02-15-2008, 12:11 PM   #24
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      08-22-2009, 07:44 AM   #25
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I have a similar idle vibration problem (i have a MT), but only with the a/c on, and the hotter it got outside, the worse the vibration. When outside temp was above 110F (I live in the Phoenix area), the vibration was down-right annoying and needed fixing. The rpms never surged (as indicated in some rough idle threads), or dipped, and as soon as it was off idle, vibration is gone. The indie BMW repairer I go to said it's caused by the radiator fan - but did so without looking at the car.

When I changed the oil to Mobil 1 0W40 from factory oil, I found that the outside temp at which the vibration would start was higher, and the severity of the vibration was less. Even at outside temps of 110, the vibration is now liveable.

Anyone else noticed this when changing to a different viscosity oil? It seems that the slightly thicker Mobil 1 does better in high temps.

Last edited by AlanAZ; 09-23-2010 at 02:26 PM.
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      08-22-2009, 10:06 AM   #26
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12k miles?


The problem is you need to get out and drive it




I had a rough idle the other day. Hopefully it was an isolated incident. My only performance mods are performance exhaust and intake.
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      08-22-2009, 11:22 PM   #27
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This thread is only 2 years old.....
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      08-23-2009, 12:30 PM   #28
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new in this thread

Ok! Im having almost the same problem, but instead of the Rpms droping mine rises +200 rpms or so (lets say around 800rpms idle) no mater if a/c its on or off. It doesnt feel like a constant vibration, it is life a split second misfire that replicates every 3 to 5 seconds.

My car its close to 36k miles and the problem started about 1000 miles back. I was thinking of spark plugs since I havent change them before and whith almost all bolts on like piggy, cai, cattless dps, a few race gas runs , I tought the plugs allready did their job.

What do you guys think? your opinion will be usefull, thanks!
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      08-24-2009, 02:10 PM   #29
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having same problems here. has been going on for about 2 months now. seems to be worst right after i fill the car with gas.

the vehicle has 2 personalities. when the idle is over 600 rpms the car runs fine... however, when the idle starts to dip below 600 the car will occasionally shudder/shake and the idle will fluctuate up and down as though it's correcting for some sort of hesitation.

the worst i've seen the car do is drop to about 500 rpm's at which point the vehicle automatically throws the throttle up to about 900/1000 rpms and then slowly retracts it down to 700rpm which is where it will idle for the next couple minutes until it finally gets back down to around 600 again.

it's very frustrating and the techs can't seem to find a solution.
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      08-27-2009, 05:20 AM   #30
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I had this problem for a while. Car would almost stall out. Recently had all injectors replaced and it helped somewhat but not completely. Has anyone had the car in and the dealer hooked it up for the diagnostics? Did anyone get a copy of the diagnosis report? Ask for it and take a look at it. Intersting stuff
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      10-29-2009, 08:06 PM   #31
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I am just back from the third dealer for this problem.

I bought this car a month ago. I noticed it 2 weeks ago. It is annoying and worrisome. So I took it to my dealer. The foreman said it is just normal. BTW. I also had ticking sound problem in cold start. He said it is also normal.

I just could not believe what he said. So I took it to the second dealer. They fixed ticking sound issue. But for vibration issue, they said all they can do is to increase RPM to mitigate it. What I wanted was a real fix. So I did not do it. Another reason I did not agree was the foreman said my 325i engine is 2.5 litter and that is why it is called 325. I immediately lost trust to the foreman and the service department there.

I then took it to the third dealer. The meaningful thing the foreman did was to show me another 2006 325i(same as mine) is having same behavior. I said to him that I will agree with him if he can show me another one having the same thing. Then we searched around in the lot and found one. And this one behaved the same. That convinced me that it is not my car's hardware flaw (the chance of these 3 cars having same flaw is very small). And he said he can pump up RPM to mitigate the issue. He also told me that they did many times of this to 5 series. With believing what he said and shown to me, I agreed to pump up RPM. They did it by 50 RPM to 740. The vibration is basically gone. The reason I say "basically" is that it still has some minor vibration but it is very similar to the loaner car I had, 2009 328i. The level of vibration is absolutely acceptable.

The conclusion I have now is that 2006 325i just have this nature. If it does bother you, all you can do is to pump it up a little. As for quick misfiring the other posts mentioned, I dont think we have strong reason to worry about it.

FYI. The loaner car I had from the third dealer, a 328i (w/ 5k miles) has more vibration than the one (328i w/ 12k miles) I had in from the second dealer.

One more thing, I also called BMW customer relationship complaining this issue and the quality of service I received from the first dealer.

Last edited by xumba; 10-29-2009 at 08:26 PM.
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      10-30-2009, 12:08 PM   #32
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Just to use my tick sound issue (it comes from engine. It is lifter issue) as an example, I believe my first dealer was not aware of that BMW had decided to fix all the tick sound claims. I learned it from the second dealer. What it means is that BMW sits and watches. If one issue is causing complain from enough customers, they will take actions. I confirmed this with dealers. This is how it works and it does make sense.

So, please talk to dealer, or better take car in so that they will record and report it to BMW. Every time when dealer take a look at a issue, they report man hours to BMW to get money. If we want to have a real fix, we have to make noise to BMW.
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      10-31-2009, 02:57 AM   #33
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Do you by any chance have an aftermarket intake?

I had this same exact problem (manual tranny) when my filter was a bit loose. Ticker will drop barely under 500rpm when the ecu will kick in before the car can stall out. After I fastened all the brackets and made sure my filter was properly sealed the problem ceased.
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      10-31-2009, 03:04 PM   #34
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Do you by any chance have an aftermarket intake?

I had this same exact problem (manual tranny) when my filter was a bit loose. Ticker will drop barely under 500rpm when the ecu will kick in before the car can stall out. After I fastened all the brackets and made sure my filter was properly sealed the problem ceased.
Hmm, thanks for the clues. What filter are you talking about please? I am new to Bimmer. I am not sure my car has an after market intake. How do I be sure of that? It has only 14k miles and everything looks new.
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      10-31-2009, 04:00 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Hmm, thanks for the clues. What filter are you talking about please? I am new to Bimmer. I am not sure my car has an after market intake. How do I be sure of that? It has only 14k miles and everything looks new.
Chances are your problem doesnt file in with mine. Your car sounds stock, its unlikely the filter in your stock airbox is loose. It doesnt share the same conical filter design as aftermarket applications do.
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      11-01-2009, 01:28 AM   #36
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I tried another 2006 325i today. It did not show the same problem. However, I noticed its RPM is a little higher than what mine had prior RPM bumped up.

Last edited by xumba; 11-01-2009 at 11:41 PM.
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      11-02-2009, 11:07 AM   #37
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Exactly how is the RPM bumped up? That would help mine idle smoother with the A/C on (see above post.) Thanks.
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      11-03-2009, 12:07 AM   #38
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Exactly how is the RPM bumped up? That would help mine idle smoother with the A/C on (see above post.) Thanks.
Dealer can just simply change parameter in software.
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      11-06-2009, 01:57 AM   #39
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Stock airbox, a/c not the factor, live in Phoenix area and does it randomly, although it is getting worse. The car acts like it is about to stall out, then savesitself, repests a few times then the light turns green and i go. Next light may or may not happen, but the RPMs are going lower than they used to. Whole car shudders as if it is going to quit. Does this no matterhow much gas is in the tank. Trying to get it looked at but have to schedule an appointment.
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      08-12-2010, 04:35 PM   #40
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I had the same problem!

Twice, it's getting stronger for a few day and ignition coils were bad. May be it's different issues which show the same symptom, because after they replaced two of the coils, I can still feel vibration ( just a little bit less than what I used to feel on my old 1990 Toyota Camry.)
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      08-16-2010, 06:55 PM   #41
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RPM

Hey Guys,
I have some problem with my power steering lines. So i get soem strong vibrations. Prior to them knowing I had power steering issues. They raised my Idle speed by 50 which made some of the vibration go away.

SO i know for a fact the dealer can raise the idle speed. just thought id let you guys know that.
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      11-15-2010, 12:30 AM   #42
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Anyone just try replacing the CCV/PCV? Most other cars, that valve is like $10 and is replaced every tune-up, but for my e90, it's $90 so I doubt this gets replaced as a preventitive measure. That valve getting clogged really bad can cause timing to go beyond what the computer can adjust for.....I think.

My car just started idling rough today, as well as rough acceleration. It feels like it's misfiring, maybe even not running on all cylinders. Will look at all spark plugs too, but betting it's some kinda emissions problem. Gonna figure out where the CCV/PCV is and check it out tomorrow. Think it's under the intake manifold.
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      11-15-2010, 02:29 PM   #43
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Not an easy part to reach. It is under the intake manifold all the way in the back. Read a guide for M54 motors and that guy was able to verify his problem (sounded same as mine) by covering a hole on the valve with the motor running. On removal, he had alot of sludge build up. He was also able to replace without removing the intake manifold, which I doubt is possible on the N52.

With 85k miles, the part costing $90, the difficulty of replacing it, I doubt my PCV was ever changed and bet it is caked with sludge, so just gonna order the parts.

Figure I need:

Intake manifold gasket (just in case):11617547242.......... $16ish
PCV valve (AKA Oil seperator): 11617531423 ................$86ish



Then there is four hoses:

Vent Hose: 11617559530..........$72ish
Connecting line: 11157522931 ........$43ish
Return pipe: 11157567801............$42ish
Extraction line: 11157537701............$12ish

Just ordering the gasket, PCV and the $12 extraction line. The other lines will be inspected and changed if needed.
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      12-18-2010, 09:57 PM   #44
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Does anyone know if the RPM idle speed can be increased with a Bavarian Technic cable or if only the dealer can handle?
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