<![CDATA[BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum - Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty]]> https://www.e90post.com/forums/ Share and discuss maintenance issues and DIY procedures en Thu, 23 Apr 2026 04:00:19 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.e90post.com/forums/multisite-style/e90post/misc/rss.jpg <![CDATA[BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum - Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty]]> https://www.e90post.com/forums/ E92 LCi N55 Injectors https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2238547&goto=newpost Wed, 22 Apr 2026 21:05:25 GMT Hi guys, I recently replaced all injectors on my BMW E92 335i with an N55 and coded them using ProTool. The coding went through without any issues, all injector values are correctly written and there are no error codes. However, the idle is still not perfectly smooth. It feels slightly uneven,... Hi guys,

I recently replaced all injectors on my BMW E92 335i with an N55 and coded them using ProTool. The coding went through without any issues, all injector values are correctly written and there are no error codes.
However, the idle is still not perfectly smooth. It feels slightly uneven, very similar to how it was with the old injectors. The interesting part is that the RPM gauge is completely stable – there is no visible fluctuation, I can only feel a slight vibration/unevenness while sitting in the car.Also worth mentioning:
  • no fuel smell
  • no misfire codes
  • the engine has only been running for about 3–4 minutes so far, I haven’t driven the car yet


My question is:
Is this normal after injector replacement, before the DME fully adapts? Or should I start looking elsewhere (mounts, ignition, etc.)?

Thanks in advance! ]]> danih-e92-55 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2238547 N46B20B 320i E90 Red Oil Light During First 5 Seconds on Cold Start – Caused by Plastic Debris in Oil Filter https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2237952&goto=newpost Sat, 18 Apr 2026 17:29:22 GMT Hi everyone, I had an issue where the red oil warning light would come on *only during the first 5 seconds after a cold start*, then disappear. I spent quite some time trying to figure out the cause. I bought the car at 130,000 km, and this problem started around 160,000 km. I have not performed... Hi everyone,
I had an issue where the red oil warning light would come on only during the first 5 seconds after a cold start, then disappear. I spent quite some time trying to figure out the cause.
I bought the car at 130,000 km, and this problem started around 160,000 km. I have not performed any timing chain replacement since owning the car.
During my checks, I found plastic debris inside the oil filter. However, the timing chain and guides were in good condition—no visible damage and no abnormal chain noise.
My assumption is that the timing chain might have been replaced by a previous owner. Some larger plastic fragments, which could not pass through the oil pickup screen, may have been left somewhere in the system. Over time, these pieces likely broke down and ended up in the oil filter.
Initially, I was getting this warning roughly every 500 km. Each time, replacing the oil filter and cleaning plastic debris from the oil cooler temporarily resolved the issue.
Over time, the intervals increased:
500 km → 2000 km → 3000 km → 5000 km → 10,000 km
After the final cleaning, the problem completely disappeared.
I also removed the oil pan to inspect it, but found no plastic debris. The oil pickup was clean, and the timing chain was tight and in normal condition.
I wanted to share this experience in case it helps others facing a similar issue. ]]> BmwZb34 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2237952 Battery Connection Help https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2237514&goto=newpost Wed, 15 Apr 2026 03:01:52 GMT Hey everyone, this is my first post on the forum, so I apologize if this is under the wrong category.

I recently purchased a 2006 BMW 325i that has been sitting for roughly 2 years. When I picked up the car it was fully dead and wouldn't jump, but I bought a new battery and it started right up.

The issue I am having right now is that the car is running in limp mode. After some diagnoses, I have narrowed it down to the rear power distribution box (part on top of the battery). I have been getting some VVT codes, so I went to check the voltage of fuses (particularly the red VVT connector), and everything was reading zero volts. Before I check if the fuses are blown, I want to confirm if everything is hooked up correctly.

The picture I have attached is a reference picture I used when putting in the new battery. This is how the old battery was hooked up. When I was trying to look at YouTube tutorial, I saw that everyone had a slightly different red box, and those connectors attached differently, primarily the visible red terminal (not the main positive) attaches to the bottom right terminal (covered by brace).

I just want to confirm if there isn't an obvious wiring issue before I dig deeper.

PS. I'm not sure why the attachment manager won't let me upload an image, here is a google drive link to it: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VyQ...ew?usp=sharing ]]> prelude_dash https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2237514 2011 328i sat for 2 years https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2237264&goto=newpost Mon, 13 Apr 2026 14:36:35 GMT I could use some help thinking through the troubleshooting.

I picked up a project that had been sitting on the dealer's lot for over 2 years. 102,960 miles on it, Clean title, fantastic maintenance records before the dealer got ahold of it. All recall work done. last oil change was done 5 miles ago on 10/2024. Basically the dealer bought it at auction, listed it way to high and it sat for 2 years so obviously it won't start

Got it home, dropped in a new battery, won't start. Reprogrammed the battery as well.

Scanned it with my Foxwell NT510 Elite scanner - tons of electrical errors as I suspected.

Attempted to charge the fob via the Apple Watch charger method - got it to click in, starter clicks but doesn't turn the engine.

Opened the fuse box and it was a mess. I think the dealer had been swapping fuses trying to get it to start. No cards - so I don't know what fuses should be where. I pulled up the fusebox diagram from StartMyCar.com

and tried to match it the fuses - much better - now I'm only getting the standard A0A9, A122, and A123 errors related to CAS.

I've ordered a engine ground strap - it seems corroded. But what am I missing on my trouble shooting?

If the ground strap doesn't work - then I probably pull the CAS, DME and send it in.

Anything else I can do?


Vehicle Information
Model: 2011 BMW 328i(E90)
Engine: N52K
VIN (last 7): NM56534
Production date: 2010-05-29
Battery type: H8 95Ah AGM ]]> Seedthrower https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2237264 Looking for a mechanic around SAN JOSE / SCOTTS VALLEY https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2237253&goto=newpost Mon, 13 Apr 2026 14:24:15 GMT Hi guys, I’m currently looking for a reliable mechanic in the San Jose / Scotts Valley area who would be open to working on multiple vehicles. At the moment, I have a 2011 M3 that is in limp mode, 2010 BMW 328i xDrive that needs brakes and a few additional items, a 2019 BMW 330i that requires... Hi guys,

I’m currently looking for a reliable mechanic in the San Jose / Scotts Valley area who would be open to working on multiple vehicles. At the moment, I have a 2011 M3 that is in limp mode, 2010 BMW 328i xDrive that needs brakes and a few additional items, a 2019 BMW 330i that requires some work, and a 2014 BMW 328i with a few diagnostic codes to address.

If you have any recommendations or know someone, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks!! ]]> ArminM3 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2237253 N46 320i code 2A70 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2236997&goto=newpost Sat, 11 Apr 2026 14:27:09 GMT Hello everyone. So i just got done doing a big rebuild on my car, i did the head gasket, valve stem seals, pcv valve and so on, and when i started the car, it had rough idle with multiple codes from cylinder 2,3 and 4 i fixed it down to only cylinder 3 with putting new coil and sparkplug on... Hello everyone. So i just got done doing a big rebuild on my car, i did the head gasket, valve stem seals, pcv valve and so on, and when i started the car, it had rough idle with multiple codes from cylinder 2,3 and 4 i fixed it down to only cylinder 3 with putting new coil and sparkplug on cylinder 4. Thats when i took out the valvetronic and eccentric shaft connectors and started the car, after that the car was running bad because of limp mode i guess, but no violent shaking and missfire from the motor. But the car still gave me the 2a70 code and 29cf code on cylinder 3. I have the cover off now to check if the valvetronic levers and so on looked good and there is nothing there. This is getting frustrating after all the other crap i already went through. I figured maybe eccentric shaft sensor or something im not sure. Thanks ahead everyone. Frederik

Pictures are from errors with valvetronic motor and eccentric sensor connector pluggednout
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]]> Frederikdh1 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2236997 N55 misfire after valve cover replacement https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2236496&goto=newpost Tue, 07 Apr 2026 08:36:23 GMT I need help guy i have a 2011 bmw 335i i just changed the valve cover and vanos solenoids and have a extreme misfire on all cylinders but 6 all the vacuum lines grounds everything is properly on car ran fine before changing it now it will barely idle car has 120k miles with new coils and plugs done... I need help guy i have a 2011 bmw 335i i just changed the valve cover and vanos solenoids and have a extreme misfire on all cylinders but 6 all the vacuum lines grounds everything is properly on car ran fine before changing it now it will barely idle car has 120k miles with new coils and plugs done prior to valve cover
Attached Images
   
]]> Parmarney https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2236496 Where did my electric coolant pump go? (2E85) https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2235504&goto=newpost Tue, 31 Mar 2026 16:02:40 GMT 2008 328XI, N52 engine (Pre-LCI). Bought at around 200k, currently at 224k (approx). Recently got a misfire + CEL, so I got my hands on ISTA+ and ran the code, through testing figured out it was an Ignition Coil, bought a new one, put it in, its fine now. When i pulled the codes, I saw the 2E85... 2008 328XI, N52 engine (Pre-LCI). Bought at around 200k, currently at 224k (approx).

Recently got a misfire + CEL, so I got my hands on ISTA+ and ran the code, through testing figured out it was an Ignition Coil, bought a new one, put it in, its fine now. When i pulled the codes, I saw the 2E85 fault (Fault Currently Present after clearing). First entry was 208312 KM, never knew it was there due to not having a good code reader. On startup it reappears, but I have been driving it for the past 20k, and nothing has happened? I read up about this issue a bit, and the fellas are saying it is a CANBUS communication issue. How can I determine the cause of this and diagnose the actual problem?

Also, is it still safely drive-able? Easter weekend is coming up and I haven't seen my family or girlfriend for 4 weeks because I was so deep in schoolwork I didn't get to my car until yesterday. :lol:

Details of what the code showed me:

First Entry
Freq: 255
Logistics counter: 40
KM: 208312 KM
SAE DTC: --
Engine speed: 704.1/min
Coolant temp OBD: 96C
Ignition on
14.52V

Current:
255
40
223864km
--
0.1/min
10C
ENG_stop
11.78V ]]> nadyhe https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2235504