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GFB DV+ Weird Sounds
I installed the DV+ diverter valve along with a PS2 and the new sounds from the turbo/DV are a little concerning. I don't hear compressor surge, so that's good, but the sounds it makes releasing partial boost (<7psi) sounds very odd and unhealthy. It also makes a high-ish pitched hum sound when lightly accelerating (20-30% throttle) which is particularly annoying and sort of embarrassing; It sounds like something is wrong with the car. It is quite loud through the Injen intake.
I did install the "sport" spring but I was curious if anyone has removed it for more of a stock acting DV? I do feel the additional "sportiness" of the spring and its ability to maintain boost more often for better on-off-on performance. But the intake is constantly in boost, even idling at a stop its bouncing around 0.1 psi of boost. Cruising around normally it's 0.3-0.8 psi. I much prefer the stock sound and function, and not constantly being in boost its better for fuel economy. Did check for boost leaks and don't have any. |
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The few vids I found online of N55 with DV+ don't sound like my car. The videos sounded stock in fact. I think I'll be removing the sport spring in the near future. |
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Just replace it with something that's actually up to the job in the first place and is plug and play. I did it with my N55 M2 and haven't looked back.
https://www.turbosmart.com/product/b...lumb-back-vr9/ https://www.turbosmart.com/product/b...dual-port-vr9/ |
The DV+ is the diverter valve upgrade that's the most proven out there. Almost all aftermarket hybrid turbo you buy recommends you to add the GFB DV+ as an upgrade.
If there is one thing you can't say about the DV+ is that's not up to the job. @[ferocity02](contact:241431) I really tried taking a video but my engine is too loud so you can't really hear the DV purge. |
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I'll try to get some video of the sounds I'm hearing this week. |
OP
It's "normal" to see boost pressures at or around 0.5psi of ambient when cruising around. This has been something I've tried to tackle personally on my tunes to mitigate, but we are talking about so little boost at so low of a volume that it's a non-issue in my opinion. As far as the noise is concerned, welcome to how mods work :) Lastly, boost is NOT correlated with fuel consumption. If you want to link two variables together, MAF would be your ticket in on this. Additionally, stock boost control uses the throttle plate to restrict air flow into the manifold. As such, if you see a few pounds under cruise, your manifold pressure is (more than likely) right on target. If your hardware revision supports the ability to log boost (mani) I would do so to ease the mind. MAF is a better metric as it directly links the amount of air entering the engine (and consequently, the fuel to maintain AFR). |
Here is a video of the sounds I am hearing. I definitely think something is wrong. The whistling sound on accel is really annoying, sounds like a whistle tip (woo wooooo). I'd be very surprised is this is normal and doesnt bother anyone else.
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Hmmm it sounds more like a kind of howling. What do your boost figures look like?
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Pretty sure it's seated and assembled properly with the o-ring and everything. I did not oil the piston because the directions made no mention of it. However it moved very smoothly w/o oil. |
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Mine sounds more like the first one (I have a PS2 and GFB). It hoots and honks and chirps and sometimes wooshes like normal valves do.
I can very easily make mine sound like the fast and furious Supra (Choo-choo-choo-choo-choo). I'll be switching to the Turbosmart shortly - I've never been comfortable with the noises the GFB made - it sure does sound like compressor surge (even if it isn't) and for peace of mind I'll change it out. |
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Because changing the diverter valve with the turbo in the car is a huge pain in the ass. If I’m taking it out, and have any doubt, I’m replacing it with something I know works. Not doing this twice!
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I removed the "main" spring and the sounds did not really change. It does behave more like stock now which I prefer. Oh well...
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Welp - I switched to the Turbosmart valve last night and I'm so far not impressed. It's the dual port version and sounds really nice when you let off at higher boost levels, but I still get the turkey warbler sound at part throttle I was trying to eliminate.
I have doubts in my installation though, because I didn't install the GFB originally, I just matched it's orientation when I put the TS valve in. On my E90 with the turbo installed in the car, looking at the compressor wheel end, the DV's electrical connector port was at the 9 o'clock position. Is this right? When I put the TS valve in, I just matched that orientation. On the TS valve instructions, it was warning to match up the recirc ports to the turbo ports. I neglected to do this because I just followed Kies Motorsports video - but their install was on an F30. Anyone done one of these recently? The only positions (due to physical limitations of the area) for the pigtail connector on the valve to point are either 9 o'clock, or 5'oclock (the upper 12-1 o'clock position is blocked by other things). TIA |
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I have very limited hardware knowledge of the BPV on these compresors, but the TS documentation states such: "Plumb Back Orientation Indicator flat on the flange, acts as a visual cue to install the BOV in the correct position relative to the plumb back pathway" "If your BOV has a flat featured on the flange (indicated in yellow below), this flat is to indicate the orientation of the plumb back ports relative to the factory plumb back re-circulation path. This is to ensure maximum re-circulation performance." https://i.ibb.co/XFBYKck/ts.png hopefully this helps and I apologize if I missed the mark. This is next up on my list, but I have been subscribed to your thread to learn. EDIT - Pic2 https://i.ibb.co/tMJ7KvR/ts2.png |
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