[Pohsib]

I am finally finished with my 2006 330i N52 with manual transmission and sports package.

TIPS:
1. Buy a new crankcase return pipe for $30 from someplace like Bavarian Autosports. When you get to the point where you need to disconnect the crankcase return, use the large screwdriver to hit the bottom of the bell as described in this thread. It does not matter if you break the yellow connector inside because it takes maybe five minutes to take the connector out and put a new one in. You just have to make sure the o ring / spacer / o ring sandwich goes back in first if the fall out of the one on your car.
2. The wobble extensions from harbor freight mentioned in this thread work very well for this project.
3. I was able to install and torque most of the oil pan bolts by reaching over the front of the subframe. The only ones I couldn’t reach that way were the ones on the back edge of the pan and one or two around the crankcase return pipe.
4. Use Permatex Permashield on the oil pan and the side of the gasket that touches the pan. This is precisely what the product was made for. As a bonus, it kept the gasket perfectly in place while I wiggled, lifted, and turned the oil pan back into place. I did not use Permatex Permashield on the engine block because it is a finely machined chunk of alloy. I just cleaned it good. Besides, I may have to take the oil pan off again someday. The oil pan itself is steel sheet metal or whatever and is more directly subjected to the rigors of the road. So it makes sense to use a sealer on that part.
5. Disconnect the heater return pipe from the steering rack. Do not let the subframe hang from the pipe. I think I broke a holding strap of some variety by not doing this early enough in the process. The strap is directly below the power steering cylinder. On my car there were three T30 screws to remove. I’d recommend getting a low profile Torx rachet for this. I used an attachment on a regular ratchet and it was really rather miserable getting those bolts in and out that way.
6. I changed the engine mounts and immediately noticed a stark difference in how the car ran. I used $50 Rein mounts. I can’t imagine that pricey genuine “HD” 335 mounts would be much better. Certainly not rnough to justify the extra $.

Here is a list of what I thought were unnecessary steps the thread starter took. They seemed to cost me time and provided no value. YMMV.

16. On the drivers side remove the bracket protecting the fuel & brake lines. [Not necessary. Smack that crankcase return pipe bell with a screwdriver. Also, don’t bother with the disconnect kit from AutoZone.]
17. Unbolt the power steering hose at the right front of the sub frame. This will allow it to move for the oil pan later. [I don’t think this added anything at all for me. I disconnect the bracket from the steering rack rather than mess with the twisty gizmo on the lines - didn’t want to damage them.]
18. Unclip the A/C pipe which will allow it to move easier for the oil pan later. [Didn’t need to do this.]
20. Remember that plate protecting the fuel & brake lines we removed? Well this is to give you room to remove the tube from the oil return line (which is a PITA!!!) try your best to not break it. [Go ahead and break that yellow connector. No big deal to fix and WAAAY easier than messing with the damn pipe for an hour.]

Problems:
1. Not having a new crankcase return pipe to bum the connector off of.
2. Having the wrong torque specs for oil condition sensor bolts and snapping all three of them. Got the bolts fixed at a machine shop for $120.