I emailed the above post to Steve @ AutoIndividual where I got my pads from and the below proves their _exceptional_ customer service.
Quote:
My initial reaction would be that during the bedding or during transfer of
friction material to the rotor that the vehicle was brought to a complete
stop while the brakes were still hot. This could have been done by the
dealer prior to your driving the car. If/when this happens than a larger
amount of material is deposited in one area and is not uniform around the
rotor surface.
Consequently, when the system heats up, this deposit can cause a vibration
during braking, although this is most unlikely if the bedding instructions
were followed; however some dealers may ignore the instructions. If this is
the case than further bedding may eliminate this high spot or you may need
to clean the rotor surface and re-bed. Use something like Brake-Kleen and a
Scotch Brite pad (green is the best as more aggressive) to thoroughly clean
the rotor.
There are a number of other possibilities that could cause this vibration.
Improper installation is the first thing to review. Make certain that the
caliper or caliper piston is not binding.
These areas are covered in the instructions that came with the pads. I have
attached as well.
It is also possible that the wheel is not installed true and/or that the
rotor is not on correctly. Rust or debris on either mounting surface can
cause what you describe; also inconsistent wheel bolt torque.
Rotor warpage is also a possibility if heat was introduced to fast into the
rotor surface even with new OE rotors.
It is also possible that the brakes were not properly bled. The ABS/DTC/DSC
all work together and from the same fluid. A tiny air bubble in the system
especially at one wheel may fool the system into believing that only one
side should apply brakes to regain control. Bleeding must be done under
pressure and with the ABS valves open. The valve opening can be done thru
the OBDII port.
Do you have a good local shop that can look over your system? Dealers
generally look to blame any non-OE parts that were added.
I would also suggest that you run these pads on all 4 corners of your car or
the brake bias will be compromised. OE pads have a coefficient of friction
of about 0.37. The CC pads cold are 0.41 and increase with heat to roughly
0.52. Consequently, the front brakes will be doing a good deal more than the
rears when hot and the front/ rear braking bias will be thrown off.
Your complaint is quite rare but think that the above should find a solution
Sorry to hear of your difficulties so let's see what is necessary to
resolve.
BTW, checked the wear sensor notch against specification and notch width is
within spec. on the high side, so no worries.
Please keep us informed
Cheers
Steve
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Now thinking back I had a complete stop after the initial 70/20 braking stops, however the stop was AFTER at least a DOZEN. Just had to fill up my tank as I was going on the highway and running out of fucking gas, took me less than 5 mins total and back on the highway
I did however waited maybe 4-5 mins driving at 70mph without touching the brake pedal for cooling off. Maybe the 5mins weren't enough for cool off? At the gas stations I checked the disk and it was hot, but not burning hot.
Does this proves Steve's initial thought? Improper bedding?
Sometimes I wish the damn tank was 120 liters!
