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Originally Posted by bluewater328
All of our jack points are plastic pieces that have three small posts that go into the side frame. They are replaceable -- still haven't figured out (besides cost and reoccurring return expense) why these aren't made of metal (visual reasons?) and part of the frame itself.
In any case, what he's done here is actually more secure than putting it on the edges since there is less chance for deflection. There is an uber nice stand on ebay/amazon that has it in a three point with a pin post...but a LOT more expensive than doing this.
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They are not made of metal because they are designed to break away from the rocker panel in case they hit something, like a curb. If they were made of metal they could possibly damage the chassis by deforming rather than breaking off the car.
All you need to prevent damage to the lift point blocks is to use the proper technique when using them as a jacking point, or use the proper flat-top jack stand to set the car on. The type of jackstands the OP modified to fit inside the lifting block are frame stands, which put undue stress on the walls of the lifting block and deform them. Most people don't really understand how to use a floor jack and damage the lifting blocks. The OP's modified stands actually concentrate more of the car's weight on a smaller surface area of the lifting block than does a flat-top stand design.
Just get better stands designed to support cars with lifting blocks. ESCO makes a nice stand for the purpose.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."