Quote:
Originally Posted by wayman519
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsosby20
Quote:
Originally Posted by wayman519
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsosby20
Quote:
Originally Posted by wayman519
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsosby20
Quote:
Originally Posted by wayman519
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsosby20
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Your angles are quite a bit off. Mine are about 5 Degrees off but my adaptation reflect the offset.
- Perform an eccentric shaft adaptation its probably in your tool if not use inpa, or ista.
- Check the vanos angle values too, perform an adaptation ( if over 5 degrees off. (Check Oil level, oil filter , oil filter basket and oil filter basket o-rings), vanos filter/check valve
- check fuel quality (ista can report fuel quality, maybe inpa too)
- run the car without the maf (smoother? - look for air leaks, include exhaust pre o2-sensors )
- Injectors (dirty, clogged, stuck) - i ran liquimoly injector cleaner, and fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank, this clear up all my rough idle issues. Fill up with Shell V-Power Fuel 91 AKI.
- [RPM shoots up? but no speed change] sounds like a worn clutch. (Engine RPM reporting is quite reliable on this engine, there are multiple sensors that can report RPM) |
So what exactly does it mean with the angles I am showing? I am just wondering if I am overthinking and just need to replace the last 4 coils since I've done the front 2 within the past year. It just don't feel like a coil going out though. |
Those angles are showing how far the valve lift adjustment shaft has turned (degrees). This is a direct correlation to how high (millimetres) your valves are allowed to lift. Its essentially your throttle body metering air into the engine.
If you have misfire codes then swap around your coils till the codes move to cylinders that have no codes. If all your cylinders are mis firing then its got something to do with air or fuel not spark. |
Hmm. It sounds like it could be the eccentric shaft. And no my car has no codes at all. The last times I've had a misfire it would last like 2 weeks then it would finally throw a code. What is your input on the vanos solenoids? I see one of them says "1" and the other says "0"? Would that be correct? |
The vanos solenoids are a wear item that causes the issues you are experiencing when failing. Not that they dont function but that they cannot keep the position they are told to keep. This throws the engine timing off by a lot. Look at intake and exhaust camshaft actual vs commanded position. Brand new genuine bmw solenoids control within 0.5 degrees accuracy for exhaust and intake cam shaft.
How many miles do you have on the engine?
What oil do you use? And after How many miles do you change it? I am gauging how worn the cam seal and vanos solenoids are.
Try the easy stuff on the first list i post, see if you get any improvement. The chain reaction of issues one little thing causes is very tough to diagnose. I would bet you are i need of new vanos solenoids, but its better to prove it first. |
Car has 158k. I use Castro's 5w30 synthetic with Mann Hummel filters. I change every 5000. My car is also tuned. It also sound like the tune could be cutting in and out with the wot issue. Lol there is so many ideas and issues it could be! |
1st Disconnect the maf, engine should run smooth without this.
Next Disconnect the eccentric shaft motor, the engine should also run smooth without this.
My plan of attack here is shutdown all the systems till the car runs smooth. Then bring them back to see which one is faulty.
I believe vanos does not function for the first 60 seconds of startup if not longer. |
So I disconnected the maf and it wouldn't even start up. It would just choke out on startup. So is it bad maf?