Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkswarmer
Thanks for the reply. I’ve decided not to do the soup delete for now, because my county’s laws are changing and will be checking diesel emissions starting in 2019 :/
I’ve also decided to buy a media blaster (I’ve always wanted one) and the wand and adapter to do the CBU myself. Will take pics and post.
|
Call around some of the tuners and see who sets readiness to passed. If your county will do a simple OBD check for emissions, that should get you through the test while being deleted.
Regarding your previous questions:
1) Its completely possible to preserve a way to go back to stock after doing all the deletes. You should be able to get away with just getting a tune and leaving all the stock emissions components on the car. If you decide to replace your DPF with a down pipe, just keep it around on the off chance you need it in the future (I still have mine). VRSF makes a very reasonably priced downpipe. Anything aft of the DPF/downpipe is not a requirement with a tune.
2) See my answer to question 1. Swapping the DPF for a downpipe is possible at home but should be very expensive at your local indy should you decide not to do it yourself. There is a DIY though on here for the downpipe install.
3) You can definitely tune back to factory settings. Just make sure that whoever you choose for your tune makes a copy of your DDE before doing the tune upgrade.
4) If you have CBU, its a good idea to get it done. Its not required, but its an issue that you should resolve sooner or later. Your tune should close the valve on the EGR valve to prevent the CBU issue from getting worse though.
5) Check out the North American Diesel Owners Group on facebook. It has many active members and should be able to help should you get stuck.
6) Each tuner should either already provide the different specs between the stages of their tunes or send you that info if you inquire. Unfortunately there is no single resource that aggregates this information. If you want to get rid of emissions components and make sure all other components aren't adversely affected by the additional power, just get base tune from your chosen tuner (thats what I did). Although there are many members here that havent been adversely affected by some of the higher power tunes out there, I've seen one that needs all the rubber bushings in the rear suspension replaced because of how much flex there is from all the torque.
7) I think the overall consensus is that the cars hold up quite well over time with a tune. You could check out the mileage thread (
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...080626&page=11) and look up some of the higher mileage owners there and reach out to them.
8) Depends on what you are trying to achieve. If you intend on doing the downpipe install or a full exhaust yourself, most definitely get 4. But jack stands are relatively cheap and it just makes sense to have 4 on hand if you do a lot of DIY's and have space to store them.
9) A tune IS required when deleting the emissions components. A transmission flush is not. However, high torque is harder on oil and its a good preventative maintenance item to do. I think BMW says their transmission oil is good for the lifetime of the car (I know a lot of VAG products claim that), but real world testing/driving has proven that to not be the case.
10) I've spent around $1500 on a tune and a downpipe. That doesnt include any labor since I did the work myself. Prices have come down since and you should be able to get a tune and downpipe within a $1k budget. Removing the SCR tank requires no additional funds. Removing the EGR cooler required a race pipe, which range from about $150-$250. A DPF-back exhaust is completely optional.
I hope that answers all of your questions. I know you said the laws in you county are changing, but I still think there is a way for you to pass emissions and be deleted. It all depends on how your county will be doing the emissions inspection.