Decided to give an update and some idea of what the 335is/550i/650i clutch swap entails and some description of it. I have right at 1,000 miles on it. I have started to beat on it. I also switch to Redline MT-90 while the trans was out.
Symptoms:
Stock clutch started slipping under 18psi on cold nights in 4th gear.
Experience:
This was my 1st BMW clutch swap. I’ve done some a few 3rd and 4th gen F-bodies. Also, engine swaps and blah blah…
Install:
Typical clutch swap, nothing out of the ordinary except how small the flywheel and clutch are. My flywheel had 45,000 miles on it and looked great, I cleaned it off and it still had the machine ridges and lines throughout with no burns, so I reused. My main complaints would be the top bolts that you access in the engine bay for the top of the bell housing AND the top passenger side bolt you get from under the car.
I made my own clutch alignment tool. Out of some scrap tubing and electrical tape to get it snug inside and out. Overall very ghetto but worked.
I also used a small triangle block of wood with a giant clamp to hold it to engine block in the flywheel teeth to keep it from spinning when torqueing the pressure plate.
Make sure you mark all the random bolts and put them in bags and life will be fine.
The locking ring on the pressure plate can be removed with a special tool, or I you are impatient and tired of spending money, use a hammer and a long screwdriver to knock it loose. I tied a thin wire around it and part of the car so it didn’t fly and hit anything.
Remember to have some long extensions (3ft worth) and universal joints in all sizes on hand. Definitely need a friend to help and keep sanity. ALSO get that 3/8 drive with the bendable head as that is 100% needed when doing top bell housing bolts, that and maybe a small like 12-9mm sized wrenchs (3in long) to get in there and move faster.
Finally grease up all the shift linkage before you put it all back together, my shifter is nice and smooth.
Engagement:
Clutch engagement was low after initial install but has move up since driving. I would say full release is slightly lower than OEM and pedal pressure is about 10-15% stiffer. Not at all a pain to drive and actually refreshing. Feel is very much OEM.
Reasoning for 335is/550i/650i/ECS tuning clutch:
I searched how many threads have popped up with 550i or 335is clutch slip events related to power and couldn’t find any. I believe this clutch is good for well into 500rwtq range. Considering the 550i is 450tq and has an easy 800lbs on my car. Dinan doesn't offer a clutch upgrade for their different stages of 550i's so they feel it’s adequate. I didn’t want to spend +$600 on a clutch. This was $380, so savings is significant. I also do not plan on doing a single turbo and plan on being done at FBO levels.
Fluid: I really like the fluid made a huge difference on the 1-2 shift. I need to perform the CDV next, but decided not to during swap so I could appreciate the difference.
F10 550i
Power: 400 bhp @ 5500 rpm
Torque: 450 lb-ft @ 1750 rpm
Curb weight: 4417 lb (auto); 4358 lb (manual)
My Car
Power: est 400rwhp
Torque: +430rwtq
Curb Weight: 3510lb (weighed)
Time: 12.7@115mph
Album of Images (sorry wish I took more, but it all looks the same.)
View post on imgur.com
edit: Watch the HPF clutch video for more suggestions as well.