Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunafish
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Well, TF, you're batting .500
Forgot to check Home Depot. It's stores near me have been enlarging their automotive sections over the last year. A year ago, they had as good a price on Castrol Edge 5W-30 Oil as anyone (including Walmart). Hadn't been in HD for ~ 6 months and didn't realize they had batteries. The Walmart H8 was $119 when I got mine there a year ago, but HD is now a good/better choice.
Now about your video:
Several comments about WHY written instructions are better for those who will take the time to read:
1) For someone who has NOT done the job before, OR THOUGHT about the steps and identified each component, it is LIKELY that person will NOT appreciate what they are seeing in the video;
2) ALWAYS disconnect the NEGATIVE Battery Cable FIRST before you get a wrench or other metal object NEAR the Battery;
3) The video vehicle did NOT have an IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor), so obviously did NOT show the two blue connectors associated with the IBS, or explain their importance, or WHY to disconnect cables from the RPDP or Rear Power Distribution Panel;
4) The guy doing the video would have DESTROYED the early model BST Connector when he PULLED on the wire removing the RPDP; Damage to either the IBS or BST connector CAN & WILL occur if someone who does NOT realize what he is working with just starts PULLING things apart in "get 'er DONE mode".
5) The video does NOT explain the "Clamp" on the RPDP on either side of the battery, and how to get it loose AFTER disconnecting ALL connectors attached to the RPDP ("Quick-boy" did NOT disconnect FOUR (4) connectors before PULLING the panel off the battery ;-) (a) BST connector; (b) JB (Junction Box) B+ Power Supply via Medium-sized Red Cable (separate flip-up cover); (c) VVT/DME B+ Power Supply via Small-sized Red Cable with Black Connector, outboard of JB supply cable; (d) IBS B+ supply so IBS can measure battery voltage, which on vehicles with IBS is a blue connector outboard of two Red Cables shown.
6) The PLUG for the vent hole on the REAR of the battery was NOT explained or shown. If you do not plug that hole with the plastic plug either on the battery being replaced or with one in the bag that SHOULD have come with replacement battery, acid fumes or boilover can escape to trunk;
7) While battery is OUT, DIY'er should inspect the Transfer points next to the plastic vent tube at the floor of the battery well. Just flip open the black-plastic covers on each of the two connectors. Those transfer points RUST and will sooner or later require replacement.
8) Since it is important to understand how the THREE different B+ Power Supply Cables are routed, and the separate function of EACH, changing the battery is the ideal time to UNDERSTAND what each does, so you will know what to test for and HOW to test if/when you have future Power Supply issues.
AND FINALLY, the battery shown looks to be 70 Ah, or an H7 or smaller, with NO GUIDANCE on what replacement to select, WHY, or HOW to change Code/Setting if a different Battery Type or Capacity is selected.
Details, Details, Details. It pays to take the time to UNDERSTAND HOW the Power Supply System works on your E9x, and failure to do that when changing the battery OFTEN results in LATER ISSUES.
TF, this is NOT meant as a criticism of YOU. You provide helpful Replies to MANY posts on this forum, and you supplied EXACTLY what OP requested: a Video. Consider this as simply a suggestion to those who want to keep their car in good shape for a long time: Take the TIME to Understand HOW any system you work on FUNCTIONS. It's NOT brain surgery; you CAN get the basic CONCEPTS.
I'll post a Step-by-Step Battery-replacement procedure (for my 3/2007 build E91) later this evening for those who want to take the time to read, think & understand; and HOPEFULLY get it right the first time, with NO "Side Effects" such as a 93B2 BST Trigger Connector Code, or "IBS Missing" code.
George