Quote:
Originally Posted by mlifxs
Not to discourage innovation with woodwork or safety concerns, but I did manage pretty well with a 2-point Harbor Freight bar that cost $64 (after 20% off coupon available everywhere) + tax. When I first put it together, I had some concerns, but once it's tightened down with the tow hook, it seems pretty solid. Not a peep of sound when I lowered the jack and let the sub-frame drop.
One recommendation that may be obvious to some (not me, until it was too late!): If you're going to leave the sub-frame lowered but still on the car, it may be worthwhile to degrease / wipe down the sub-frame and everything else between you and those pan bolts, before you begin removing the bolts. Otherwise, it's "all on you", as they say.
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When I post the pic of my contraption you'll understand. I looked at the Harbor freight engine bar and was going to get it, but it was not in stock. My engine support is basically a 2x6 spanning the fenders (about 60 inches) with a 3/8ths Grade-8 bolt attaching the tow hook to the 2x6. It's far more than sturdy. It was all stuff I just had lying around my shop.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."