[Ali-E90]

Hello all, I’m a newbie here but have been reading these forums for some tips and ideas on upgrading my stock audio system. Before I begin, I’d like to say that this forum was extremely useful, so Thanks to all!!

This is quite long as I’ve included a number of details on the installation, as well as my though process. Hopefully it doesn’t annoy you to saying “just get to the point already!”
The work is still in progress, and I have bolded a few areas where input/opinions would be appreciated. I will continue to update this post as the work gets done. Part 2 of the job may have to wait a few weeks as my schedule is just very tight.

Summary:
Although some of the decisions I made might have been contrary to what many have posted here, I am generally very pleased with the outcome of my setup. I’m currently still waiting on finishing the sub component, so am missing some bass, but otherwise very pleased with the overall job. This includes the sound quality and esthetics. I do have a couple of minor tweaks to request from installer when I get the sub done, see details in the HU section.

Original Setup:
I started out with the Base Professional stereo (no tweeters, no amp, 6” seat woofers) in my 2007 323i 4dr (Canadian model). It didn’t take me long before I decided I needed an audio upgrade (the two Talons I’ve owned prior to this have always had big box systems with amps and subs). As everyone knows, the base stereo is underpowered and lacks a flat sound curve.

Objectives:
I had a few main objectives I wanted to accomplish:
1. Functionality – mainly the addition of BT audio streaming WITH HU control (not using the AUX jack)
2. SQ – increase the quality of the sound across the board, add some volume
3. Bass – I’ve always been a bit of a bass-head, definitely needed some lows that I just wasn’t getting
4. Esthetics – I wanted everything to look clean and stock-ish. Not totally opposed to changing the stock look, but as long as it still looks clean
5. Cost – definitely wanted to keep costs down, so I wanted to maximize the use of equipment I had already owned from my previous installations

Head Unit:
As mentioned, I definitely wanted to keep a stock-ish type look to the car. At first, I was very hesitant to change the HU, the Professional radio looks very clean. After doing some reading though, I was finding it would be difficult, and expensive, to integrate Bluetooth audio support WITH audio controls (changing tracks from HU / Steering Wheel). Given I don’t have stock iPod integration, I think my options are limited to devices tricking my HU into thinking the BT adaptor is a CD Changer. I only found one such option (FISCON?) and it wasn’t cheap. Plus, keeping my stock HU also would require recoding (or the addition of an MS-8 or other device), which also would have further increased costs.
It’s for that reason, I decided to go with the double-DIN Pioneer AVIC-920 BT instead. Offers ALL the functionality I could want (BT audio, BT phone, iPod, Navi, DivX/video, EQ, etc.). I was still concerned about the esthetics of replacing the HU, but took the plunge as I decided function > form (but it was close).
Now that the HU is in, I’m super pleased! Frankie at 20 Hertz (Toronto) did an AMAZING job at creating a custom bezel for my HU. I have the manual climate controls (3 dials, not 2), and I had a hard time finding the right bezel for a double DIN in my car… I found ones that have the heater controls on the top, with HU at the bottom, but I wanted HU at the top for ideal access to screen while driving etc. Frankie made it happen, and was a pleasure to work with for the whole installation.
There are a couple of parts of the install that remain:
1) Steering Wheel controls – his supplier sent the wrong part, so I need to back another day for him to put that in, looking to get Volume and Prev/Next track support. Phone functions would be great, audio source button less so. In case the adaptor doesn’t give full access to all wheel controls
2) ACC/Ignition wires – as I’ve heard with many other aftermarket units, the HU only turns on when the car is on. This is a pain for me, I often am on a call / listening to music after arriving at my destination, and shut off the car but keep key in ignition until I’m ready to leave. Hoping we can find a different ignition trigger to use rather than something tied to Start/Stop button (i.e. lighter). SUGGESTIONS WELCOME!!

Amps:
With the HU installed, I had access to line level, flat inputs to feed into my amps. Ideally I would have wanted a 5 or 6 channel setup, allowing me to control the under-seat woofers separately from the 4” drivers in the front doors / rear deck. I only wanted to connect 2 amps (not 3). Again, using equipment I already owned, I had access to a 4-channel Sony amp and 2 2-channel Punch amps. On this decision, I decided to go form over function, and opted for using the 2 2-channel Punch amps because they just looks so much nicer together! Since I wasn’t using “compact” amps that would fit where a stock amp would normally go, my amps are mounted to the back of the back-seats (inside trunk, seats don’t fold down), and are on display. This definitely factored into my decision.
I bridged all 6 speakers inside the cabin to 2-channels, powered by a Punch 2002 (200W RMS). I know I lose flexibility for staging, and control to get better sound out of my seat woofers, but for “Stage 1”, it was fine. In the future, I may consider adding a 3rd amp to resolve some of these issues (especially if I change my cabin speakers, they are all stock for now). I did run each of the 4 speaker channels separately, and bridged them at the amp to “future-proof” my setup. Similarly, there are Front, Rear, and SUB RCAs coming from the HU into my trunk, despite not being able to use the Rear ones for now.
My second Punch amp, a 2-channel 3002 model (300W RMS) will be bridged to a 4-ohm mono load to power the sub in the trunk.
The installation was very clean, again, Frankie and his team at 20Hz were awesome, and did exactly what I wanted. I mounted one of the amps upside down to create a symmetrical look (see pics). I also had a stiffening cap handy, so we mounted that too, though it didn’t fit under the amps as I originally hoped.

Sub:
This part of the install is yet to be done, but I plan on creating a custom enclosure for a 12” woofer under the floorboard similar to the BSW sub. I love the idea of maintaining all my trunk space, and also think it would be esthetically cool to see the woofer under the floor. I’m not sure if the stock floor cover will allow enough bass through, without rattling, when it’s closed. Might just create a speaker cut out for the sub, and use a grill to protect the woofer. OTHER THOUGHTS / SUGGESTIONS?
Again, I had an existing woofer I wanted to use, a simple JL 12w0 which I pulled from a box that contained 2 such 12’s. Not sure why I didn’t check before, but when getting the system installed, I noticed the woofer was an 8-ohm, and wouldn’t be ideal for my single-sub setup. As a result, I’m now looking for a 4-ohm 12” woofer, and leaning towards a JL 12w3. Again, SUGGESTIONS WELCOME for sub options. I do want to stick to 12” for esthetic reasons, 10” woofers always just looked small to me.

Outcome:
Overall, I am very pleased with the output (pending Sub install). Of course, I’ll re-evaluate after the sub goes in, but for now, what a difference!
Esthetically, Frankie and team did a great job with the HU custom bezel, wiring, and amp install. The HU button lights can be customized, and I’ve matched the colour to the other stock controls 100%. The HU looks better than I originally expected, and still looks very clean and stock-ish.
SQ is significantly improved! Now that the source feed has been flattened, the need for tweeters has been highlighted, but still, for the stock speakers without tweeters, I’m surprisingly impressed with the SQ! Vocals are loud and clear, mid-bass is much improved (though I suspect there is still room for improvement here by upgrading to 8” seat-woofers, and using a bandpass filter – something for “stage 2”). Even the highs do sound better, despite the flat EQ and lack of tweeters. The highs need a boost, but sound more natural now.
Volume is increased too, and absolutely no distortion when pumping it up! The HPF keeps my stock speakers “safe” from being overpowered… or so I hope!! I’ve decided to disable the x-over on the amps, and use the HU settings for convenience. Cabin is HPF at 125Hz, and when the sub goes in, I expect to LPF that at 100Hz. I’ll play with my options once the sub goes in, so those numbers may change. I’ve read that I shouldn’t be worried about the “gap” in x-over frequencies, as both HPF and LPF will still play some frequencies between 100-125Hz, and together these may balance out.

Remaining Items:
As mentioned, I need to go in to see Frankie (20Hz) again to finish the job due to some complications. Things I expect to finish on that second visit (Suggestions welcome for other tweaks I should consider when I go):
1) Steering wheel control adaptor for Pioneer HU
2) Investigate finding a different ignition/remote lead from the car so the HU works with just the key inserted, and not having to start the car
3) Sub purchase (leaning towards 12w3)
4) Custom 12” enclosure under the trunk floor (where spare tire usually goes)
5) Investigate custom iPhone dock/holder in the small storage next to hand-brake (not center console) – SUGGESTIONS WELCOME (I want it to work with iPhone 4 and iPhone 5 – I already have apple 30-pin to lightning adaptor)

Future “Stage 2” options:
I’m planning to enjoy “Stage 1” for at least a year, to spread out the costs of upgrading my system. I do plan on keeping the car for a while (I only stopped driving my 95 Talon in December 2012, purchased in June 2000). Whether it’s next year, or sooner/later, here is what I expect my next steps to be:
1) Component 4” sets for the front doors, using OEM tweeter sails (may consider hacking my existing door trim for tweeters in the same location, but why not just replace the trim for a clean look and easy job?)
2) 8” mid-bass drivers under the seats – Kicker or some other alternative better geared for mid-bass (not earthquakes)
3) Use of a 3rd 2-channel amp to power 8” woofers separately to feed it adequate power, and band-pass them. Would consider replacing one of my 2-channel amps with a 4-ch to get same effect, but again, like the esthetics of my current setup. If I get a 3rd amp, may mount that in stock amp location and keep hidden. SUGGESTIONS WELCOME!
4) Install external crossover to control band-pass for 8’s mainly, but can control all crossovers for ideal SQ – I already have a crossover unit from my past applications
5) 4” coaxials for the rear-deck; totally optional, but I do believe rear seat occupants deserve good audio too!

Thanks for reading! Hopefully it wasn’t too long and you made it to the end.

Looking forward to feedback and comments!!

Sorry the Pics aren't in order